I'm new to civics however i was running a integra with a gsr motor then it just broke down 1 day with 282k miles on it. now i have a bone stock ex civic with a short ram intake. im going to purchase a SOHC turbo kit. t3/t4 to4e turbocharger. its bolt on and yes its off ebay b/c im on a budget right now. heres all the stuff that comes with it. http://www.stockreco.com/aaaa19044.jpg description-
Garrett T3/T4 TO4E Turbocharger
.50 STAGE iii WHEEL
GARRETT HYBRID
GARRETT INTERNALS
(1) SUPER RACE TURBO MANIFOLD
STAINLESS STEEL
(1) STAINLESS 4 BOLT DOWNPIPE
( Hand made tig )
(1) Full set of TIG Welded Complete (5) piece 2.5" charge piping.

(1) WASTEGATE DUMPTUBE
(1) SUPER 38MM WASTEGATE
(1) SUPER RFL BOV
( 1 ) SUPER 680mm X 460mm X 180mm INTERCOOLER

what will i need if anything to make this run smooth in my car without any engine breakdowns. this will be professionally installed sense im not a mechanic. dont need to boost but up to 8-10 psi right now. thank you for your help.

 

besides reliable parts, reliablitly in a honda turbo setup has alot do do with the tune. get a good tune and buy good parts, have them installed correctly and u should have a reliable car for the most part BTW i didnt see them on ur parts list but u need injectors for 8-10 psi in a single cam. recomend 450cc dsm injectors should be fine for ur setup. tuning is the most important thing tho in that setup. dont waste ur time uless ur gona get that or u wull hit boost and just blow ur motor

 

o yes im sorry i forgot to mention that. i do have a full fuel kit sitting in my room right now. it is a 450cc b/c my best friend is a great mechanic and is doing the tuning for me. so you think this kit is fine with a fuel kit and the right tuning?

 

i think you are misunderstanding "tune"....getting your car tuned means taking it to a dyno tuning mechanic who knows everything there is to know about making your car run the best and the most efficient without it blowing up...it doesnt mean asking your friend to put your injectors in for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadalac1712 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o yes im sorry i forgot to mention that. i do have a full fuel kit sitting in my room right now. it is a 450cc b/c my best friend is a great mechanic and is doing the tuning for me. so you think this kit is fine with a fuel kit and the right tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>

somepeople say the kit has lasted them 3 years some say it didnt last more than an hour. but im going to go for one, eventually upgrade stuff as it goes bad but not a bad kit for the money. tuning is key.

 

ok so lets get this straight. once the fuel and turbo kit are put it. take it to someone who knows everything there is to know and get him to look at it? just so i know what my limits are on the engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadalac1712 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so lets get this straight. once the fuel and turbo kit are put it. take it to someone who knows everything there is to know and get him to look at it? just so i know what my limits are on the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>
closer. but still not there....the guy you take it to will strap your car up on a dyno...he will mess with your ecu settings, dyno it, tinker some more, dyno it, tinker, dyno...until its perfect. then you will be good to drive the **** outta your car without worrying about blowing it (unless you messed something up mechanically)

the tuner does not mess with the mechanical part of your work at all...he just does as his name states. tunes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alacard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
closer. but still not there....the guy you take it to will strap your car up on a dyno...he will mess with your ecu settings, dyno it, tinker some more, dyno it, tinker, dyno...until its perfect. then you will be good to drive the **** outta your car without worrying about blowing it (unless you messed something up mechanically)

the tuner does not mess with the mechanical part of your work at all...he just does as his name states. tunes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, what he said.

Only problems you'll face is the welds will start cracking soon.

Unless the turbo eats itself first.

Fine if you don't mind replacing parts (seriously) - might be okay if u buy it, then when the header craps out, replace it, then when the downpipe breaks, replace it - this way your money can be spent over a period of time in less ammounts instead of dropping 2k flat on a turbo kit.

The kit should be good for 275 at thew heels, don't worry about the crank HP, that's not important at all when tuning a car, only the whp is. You'll need a chipped ECU (preferably an OBD-II to OBD-I conversion harness running a P28 since they're very easy to chip and work with (not to mention tuners definitely have the most experience with them)) - chipped ECU, he hooks it up, dynos ur car, makes tweaks, etc. etc.

Just note, that dyno tuning is like $150 an hour and your "super mechanic friend that knows everything" can't help you - has to be tuned, on a dyno, with laptop, and somebody that knows wtf they're doing. Like the guy said, he doesn't do anything mechanically, all the tuning is done on the computer.

Hit me up if you have any more direct questions.

 

ok. so how many miles can i drive my car without it being dyno'ed or do i need get someone to tow or what? and so its cheaper to peice a kit together than spend 800 straight up on a kit? syndacate thxs for the help hope u respawned to this b/c i cant pm u. and do i have to buy a new ecu chip and stuff??? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadalac1712 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so lets get this straight. once the fuel and turbo kit are put it. take it to someone who knows everything there is to know and get him to look at it? just so i know what my limits are on the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your friend know how to tune using the program you are using go for it. I honestly do not know why more people are not self tuners. It is not that hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadalac1712 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok. so how many miles can i drive my car without it being dyno'ed or do i need get someone to tow or what? and so its cheaper to peice a kit together than spend 800 straight up on a kit? syndacate thxs for the help hope u respawned to this b/c i cant pm u. and do i have to buy a new ecu chip and stuff??? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have someone burn you a basemap. Member mtber here can do that for you.

 

Syndacateis right but dont go over 240whp with a stock bottum end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Syndacateis right but dont go over 240whp with a stock bottum end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll agree with you except:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


and your "super mechanic friend that knows everything" can't help you - has to be tuned, on a dyno, with laptop, and somebody that knows wtf they're doing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's called a street tune. It does not have to be tuned on a dyno. To get the best results, yes, but its not a must.

 

ok. i didnt know i could get it that high. i was thinking around 200hp lol. i plan on doing the dyno as is b/c theres a performance shop 5min from my house that will do it 100 per hour. so to get my other question together yall think buying serperate or the 800 kit to begin then add on later or what

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's called a street tune. It does not have to be tuned on a dyno. To get the best results, yes, but its not a must. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you monitor A/F ratios and see what results your fuel and timing changes are having on the power curve with a "street tune"?

 

I have serious doubts that a $800 complete kit comes with a true garrett turbo, maybe a Garrett "like" turbo.

BTW, I have has several customers that have, against my suggestions, purchased and had me install Ebay Garrett turbos. Two hours later I would install a $900 real Garrett unit on their car. These Ebay turbos look great and the bearing feels fine when you spin it, that is until it runs on the car and spins @60k rpm and the unbalanced turbines put excessive wear on the bearing, the turbo then eats itself against the housing. You get what you pay for.

On a street car, use a reliable cast manifold. I have built numerous 400HP+ engines with a cast manifold (b-series) with a cast manifold. On a street car you will NOT need more airflow than the "restricive" or "unequal length" cast manifold will give you. You DO need the years or reliability it WILL give you.

Buy crappy EBAY intercoolers, piping (even though it is unlikely to actually fit), and mufflers. Buy your turbo products from a reliable source and name.

 

if you do street tune get a a/f ratio gauge and a adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you want it to run richer at higher rpms or you will burn up your head.

 

basically man, youve got some researching to do...read up a little more and then come back with more specific questions. you dont want to end up buying stuff you dont need or buying stuff thats going to cause huge problems in the future