Alright im trying to sepereate all the h22's out and am getting confussed when it comes to the type s. So there is a USDM type s, Jdm type s and a euro R, which are all pretty much the same cept the usdm type s has atts and the jdm and euro have lsd? other then that they are the same motor? Im looking to swap an ek as my next project and im in cali so ineed it to be smog legal so basicly i have to get one of the type is motors, or try to find a jdm h22 made in 1996 cause thats the year the car is. Its alreayd obd2 so i figured i would just bite the bullet and pay the extra for the type s motor, but i dont want atts(that crap is evil), can the jdm type s takes lots of boost cause thats whats gonig to end up happening to it.

 

There is no USDM Type S

JDM Type S = ATTS
JDM SiR S Spec = LSD
JDM EuroR = LSD + close ratio transmission + single runner intake manifold

 

ok cool thatnks for clearing that up so im looking between the sir s spec and the euro r. What are the h22 codes on these? i heard the euro r is a h22a8 i think, but dont know what the sir s spec is. Btw all these motors put out 220 horse?

 

The engine code for all of them is H22A

 

The Type S motor get it's power boost mostly from the increased compression of the engine so it's really the pistons. The intake also has a bit to do with it as well as the cams. If your boosting a H22 type S is not what your going to want. Might want to look into a H23 or even a F22 if your going to end up boosting the engine to an higher PSI. But if you want to stay in the H22A family stick with a H22A1 or H22A4 (JDM vs USDM) base block since you dont want ATTS

 

^^^ like he just said, going with a type s for boost is pointless, its more of a n/a car... You say its going to have lots of boost? Which means you will be rebuilding the engine (pistons, rods, cams)... That would be a complete total waste of money to go with the type s.

If you wanna stay obd2, just go with the H22a4 and just make sure you get one from the "Base" model cause the "SH" model has the atts... H23 wouldnt be a bad idea either, its cheap to find, but its obd1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Type S motor get it's power boost mostly from the increased compression of the engine so it's really the pistons. The intake also has a bit to do with it as well as the cams. If your boosting a H22 type S is not what your going to want. Might want to look into a H23 or even a F22 if your going to end up boosting the engine to an higher PSI. But if you want to stay in the H22A family stick with a H22A1 or H22A4 (JDM vs USDM) base block since you dont want ATTS</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd argue that its a combination of the cams and pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built2.0Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ like he just said, going with a type s for boost is pointless, its more of a n/a car... You say its going to have lots of boost? Which means you will be rebuilding the engine (pistons, rods, cams)... That would be a complete total waste of money to go with the type s.

If you wanna stay obd2, just go with the H22a4 and just make sure you get one from the "Base" model cause the "SH" model has the atts... H23 wouldnt be a bad idea either, its cheap to find, but its obd1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe a noob-question:

Why not wanting the ATTS (bad because...)? Is it that bad for an N/A also or only for boosting?

 

ATTS are known to crap out after a certain amount of horsepower think its round 230
they go out all the time i know of 5 people who have tghe SH model and all of them are throwing the atts code

 

Thx for answering

 

Not to mention that the ATTS system is a pain in the *** to work around, like doing a clutch swap is so much more of a pain. After the 2nd Sh I pulled a tranny on I vowed never to work on another haha.

 

how is the h22a4 with atts, but with a prelude intermediate shaft and the adaptor plate? also boosting.

 

wouldnt it be that the atts system couldnt handle a certain amount of torque?

i mean atts DOES stand for active torque transfer system.......

 

You have to custome fab I belive its the half shat to fit the atts into a civic chasi