i heard there was some way to fix ur front camber with washers, can any1 explain
i need to fix the camber on my dc2 n am low on cash cuz i need new tires n alignment and new brakes, can any1 explain this or have a link to another thread.

 

You can only do it to the rears.

 

ok thx for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggsr925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard there was some way to fix ur front camber with washers, can any1 explain
i need to fix the camber on my dc2 n am low on cash cuz i need new tires n alignment and new brakes, can any1 explain this or have a link to another thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no need to "fix" the front camber on a DC2. Lowered to tucking tire, I only had -2.4* camber on mine, and any replacement UCA will further reduce what little front suspension travel we have up there.

Only reason to run a front camber kit on our cars is to dial in an exact camber for race purposes. I'm using SPC UCAs to get -4.0* front camber, though that is very much an extreme alignment and probably not accetable to everyone. I wouldn't bother worrying about any camber value &gt; -3*, and if you have more negative camber than that, something is bent.

 

how do i measure camber, im just dropped on h&r sport springs

 

You have to go to an alignment shop to measure camber. If your tires are wearing out, it's probably just your toe setting being messed up from lowering the car. I have no camber kit on my EG Civic (same suspension as DC) & it's lowered 2.5". All you need is a decent alignment & your tires will go the distance with no problem. Go to Sears. They have laser alignment machines & they don't mind doing lowered cars (only $60 for my civic)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to go to an alignment shop to measure camber. If your tires are wearing out, it's probably just your toe setting being messed up from lowering the car. I have no camber kit on my EG Civic (same suspension as DC) & it's lowered 2.5". All you need is a decent alignment & your tires will go the distance with no problem. Go to Sears. They have laser alignment machines & they don't mind doing lowered cars (only $60 for my civic)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except, don't go to Sears with adjustable UCAs. They kept me waiting for 4 hours for a "45 minute alignment", and even though I asked for -3.3* front camber, they gave me -4.0*, and then wanted to argue with me about it, saying that -3.3* wasn't possible with my suspension, even though I rolled in with -1.8*, and -3.3 is certainly somewhere between -1.8 and -4.0.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Only reason to run a front camber kit on our cars is to dial in an exact camber for race purposes. I'm using SPC UCAs to get -4.0* front camber, though that is very much an extreme alignment and probably not accetable to everyone. I wouldn't bother worrying about any camber value &gt; -3*, and if you have more negative camber than that, something is bent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree. With negative camber on a street vehicle, tires wear very quickly on the inside. A camber kit fixes this problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo(less)DB8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree. With negative camber on a street vehicle, tires wear very quickly on the inside. A camber kit fixes this problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You bumped a thread with the last message from nearly 3 months ago, just to say that negative camber wears tires?

Ignoring that, if negative camber wears the inside of the tires, then why, after a year of driving with &gt; -3.0* of front camber (its varied from alignment to alignment, currently at -4.0*), are my tires worn slightly more on the outside, and the same at the center and inside? Measured with a tread depth gauge, I have 8/32" at the outside, and 9/32" in the center and inside. I'm betting that the rear toe in (stock toe setting) is wearing the outside, and its certainly wearing the outside faster than the camber is wearing the inside.

Besides, my weekend car runs -4.75* of rear camber, thats actually within spec, and I haven't had any issues with tire wear in the 12 years I've had the car. If nearly 5 degrees of negative camber doesn't wear tires, then the insignificant 2 degrees most lowered Hondas have won't do anything.

With correct toe settings, camber doesn't really wear tires.

Besides, a camber kit in the front of most Hondas really robs us of what little front suspension travel we have left after lowering. A softer sprung street car needs all the suspension travel it can get, especially if lowered. So, I'll repeat myself, leave the camber kits for those who need to dial in an exact setting for competition and can live with the reduced front suspension travel.

 

AMEN!!!

 

I stand corrected. Didn't notice the date (second time in few days) mybad.