Anyone know a DIY link for brakes? Pads are low and id like to be able to stop got lots of free time soon. LINK ME UP! Which is better Organic or Metallic pads?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1230496

Get a Chilton's.

 

+1 for getting a manual, not a big deal at all as long as you make sure to properly bleed the system....

as for pads: organic pads are less abrasive than metallic pads, where metallic pads will normally give you a squeal as it is metal on metal initially when they presson the rotors, but theis will go away after intital wear or you can just scuff up the new pads....metallic pads will also wear nice groove into your rotors as time progresses

your better bet would be ceramic or carbon based pads....both are non-metallic so no squeling or chewing up of the rotors, but the difference is ceramics will leave no visible brake dust whereas carbons will BUT can increase your stopping up to 30%

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">+1 for getting a manual, not a big deal at all as long as you make sure to properly bleed the system....

as for pads: organic pads are less abrasive than metallic pads, where metallic pads will normally give you a squeal as it is metal on metal initially when they presson the rotors, but theis will go away after intital wear or you can just scuff up the new pads....metallic pads will also wear nice groove into your rotors as time progresses

your better bet would be ceramic or carbon based pads....both are non-metallic so no squeling or chewing up of the rotors, but the difference is ceramics will leave no visible brake dust whereas carbons will BUT can increase your stopping up to 30%</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure about this but i'm guessing you might know. Please educate and direct him in the right way about the heat effectiveness in the pads. Some "sport/racing" pad's need a higher temperature to operate correctly then other normal pads would.

 

You don't have to bleed the brakes when changing pads or rotors because the system is never opened. The only reason you would have to bleed the brakes, is if the level was below the Min level on the resevoir, which it shouldn't be. If the fluid is really dark, then a flush should be done with some new fluid.

You actually might have to remove a little fluid because the new pads will displace fluid further up the resevoir, so if you were at the Max line before changing pads, the level will raise above that level with the new pads installed, and will need to be lowered.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=373
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=642

For good daily/track pads i recommend Cobalt Friction GT Sports. Search around and read up on them, quite a few people use them including myself and are pleased with them.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to bleed the brakes when changing pads or rotors because the system is never opened. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed...but i am referring to doing the complete job....might as well do the whole thing instead of just poppin in some new pads and callin it a day

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure about this but i'm guessing you might know. Please educate and direct him in the right way about the heat effectiveness in the pads. Some "sport/racing" pad's need a higher temperature to operate correctly then other normal pads would. </TD></TR></TABLE>

since the OP didnt state anything about running overly performance based pads, i just wanted to inform him of the differences between the more common types of pads out there. to answer your question, these pads are designed to operate effectively under everyday driving and conform to OE specs, but you are totally correct in your statement regarding sport/racing type pads

 

organics are okay. semi metallics are harder on rotors. both can contribute to squeaking. ceramics are more delicate on rotors and can take more heat, so less brake fade, and noise.