Camber correction
I put tein super street coilovers, so when i went for an aligment, they told me that since the car its been lowered, they wont be able to make sure that it would be perfect, because i dont have the camber kits, i guess. So what cambers should you recomend me to fix this problem.....






Modified by 00****chico at 11:46 AM 12/2/2006






Modified by 00****chico at 11:46 AM 12/2/2006
looks good yes , if you want to , and this is fine ive done it many times on slightly lowered cars , take your upper arm off in the rear on each side , and fire a washer in behind it , fire the bolts back in , not exact , but will keep you from tearing tires off as much if you didnt.
just so you know NTB "National Tire & Battery" has a deal were you pay $98.00 and get all the aligments you want/need for a year. so you can go once a week if you want and pay nothing its pretty aweome
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowSlow93Sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doesnt look like you need a camber kit. Have them do it anyway. and yes they can adjust camber with the stock parts to. (just very little adjustment) </TD></TR></TABLE>
please explain how you adjust camber on a honda without aftermarket camber kits???
besides the rear washer trick???
please explain how you adjust camber on a honda without aftermarket camber kits???
besides the rear washer trick???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cranny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant. civics and tegs have no camber or castor adjustment , only toe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know, thats why i wanted him to explain.
i know, thats why i wanted him to explain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EkLanta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skuink 2 camber</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep i have them and no problems yet...(fingers crossed) haha...
yep i have them and no problems yet...(fingers crossed) haha...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fightback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how low do u have to drop before u need a camber kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on a few things, i mean, every car is gonna be differant, and every set of tires will react to camber differantly. subframe fatigue is a common problem with hondas, and with age they tend to develop negative camber, so there is no rule of thumb you can go by.
personal preferance in my book is any more than 1.6" and you should consider some type of camber kit. general rule of thumb is for every 1.5" you will get -.75 degrees of camber change. couple that with a stop setting of near -1.3 degrees and you will have a camber problem. i could get into how camber affects tire wear, etc, etc, but its been done before, and i dont feel like that arguement/conversation again.
depends on a few things, i mean, every car is gonna be differant, and every set of tires will react to camber differantly. subframe fatigue is a common problem with hondas, and with age they tend to develop negative camber, so there is no rule of thumb you can go by.
personal preferance in my book is any more than 1.6" and you should consider some type of camber kit. general rule of thumb is for every 1.5" you will get -.75 degrees of camber change. couple that with a stop setting of near -1.3 degrees and you will have a camber problem. i could get into how camber affects tire wear, etc, etc, but its been done before, and i dont feel like that arguement/conversation again.
I have never used any type of aftermarket camber kit in my life and daily drive with -2.5-2.6ş of camber. ZERO uneven tire wear. Only thing changed was alignment and 0ş toe all around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DFW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never used any type of aftermarket camber kit in my life and daily drive with -2.5-2.6ş of camber. ZERO uneven tire wear. Only thing changed was alignment and 0ş toe all around. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly what i mean.
ANY amount of - camber will cause accelerated tire wear. claiming you have NO uneven wear is FALSE, you might not have NOTICEABLY more shoulder wear, but believe me, if the outside shoulder of the tire isnt meeting the road as much as the center in is, ITS NOT GONNA WEAR AS FAST AS THE INNER SHOULDER WILL.
this is the arguement im not gonna get into. this IS NOT my OPINION, its FACT.
exactly what i mean.
ANY amount of - camber will cause accelerated tire wear. claiming you have NO uneven wear is FALSE, you might not have NOTICEABLY more shoulder wear, but believe me, if the outside shoulder of the tire isnt meeting the road as much as the center in is, ITS NOT GONNA WEAR AS FAST AS THE INNER SHOULDER WILL.
this is the arguement im not gonna get into. this IS NOT my OPINION, its FACT.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thefatskeleton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the Skunk 2 kit they have alot of travel room. so you could slam it down no problem. but if your just droping it like 1 to 2 inches brand doesnt really matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 skunk 2..
x2 skunk 2..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
exactly what i mean.
ANY amount of - camber will cause accelerated tire wear. claiming you have NO uneven wear is FALSE, you might not have NOTICEABLY more shoulder wear, but believe me, if the outside shoulder of the tire isnt meeting the road as much as the center in is, ITS NOT GONNA WEAR AS FAST AS THE INNER SHOULDER WILL.
this is the arguement im not gonna get into. this IS NOT my OPINION, its FACT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hoosier and toyo i belive require at least -2.5 deg on their R-comps otherwise you'll get too much outside shoulder wear...kinda opposite in your regard but this is a different situation. Ideally if both camber and toe cause uneven wear, then they should both be set to zero. The outside or the inside of the tire does have an effect but radial tires kinda negate the extreme effects of camber.
exactly what i mean.
ANY amount of - camber will cause accelerated tire wear. claiming you have NO uneven wear is FALSE, you might not have NOTICEABLY more shoulder wear, but believe me, if the outside shoulder of the tire isnt meeting the road as much as the center in is, ITS NOT GONNA WEAR AS FAST AS THE INNER SHOULDER WILL.
this is the arguement im not gonna get into. this IS NOT my OPINION, its FACT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hoosier and toyo i belive require at least -2.5 deg on their R-comps otherwise you'll get too much outside shoulder wear...kinda opposite in your regard but this is a different situation. Ideally if both camber and toe cause uneven wear, then they should both be set to zero. The outside or the inside of the tire does have an effect but radial tires kinda negate the extreme effects of camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hoosier and toyo i belive require at least -2.5 deg on their R-comps otherwise you'll get too much outside shoulder wear...kinda opposite in your regard but this is a different situation. Ideally if both camber and toe cause uneven wear, then they should both be set to zero. The outside or the inside of the tire does have an effect but radial tires kinda negate the extreme effects of camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what does being a radial tire have to do with camber wear???
what does being a radial tire have to do with camber wear???
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