Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

power windows

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 08:46 PM
  #1  
dakers01's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO, USA
Default power windows

my car = 1995 Accord EX: 2.2L(2156cc), F22B1, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve

my driver's side power window has frozen. over time it began sliding up more and more slowly, until one day it stopped altogether. i am unsure if my problem relates to the PW motor itself, or something along the track that may be impeding the window's path. i am clearly a square-one novice on automotive-related issues, so i am a bit hesitant to crack the door open before asking someone knowledgeable.

what are some reasonably inexpensive options for fixing my PW?

thanks again.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:52 PM
  #2  
Cronousman's Avatar
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From: Dallas, tx, usa
Default Re: power windows (dakers01)

most of the time, it's just a broken motor...the motor themselves dont really cost that much...you can get them at auto zone and when you give them your broken motor, they'll even refund you part of your money.... power window motor isnt hard to fix...i did it once with Hayne's repair book.

However...i do feel like maybe you need to grease the track and the components a bit...if you never greased them in the 11 years that you owned the car...things can get really dry and dirty...and eventually because it's so unsmooth the motor needs to push harder and harder until eventually it just gave out.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:16 AM
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dakers01's Avatar
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Default Re: power windows (Cronousman)

thanks for the advice! i will give it a shot and report back if i have any problems.

thanks again.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #4  
Heat's Avatar
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From: Springfield, IL, USA
Default Re: power windows (dakers01)

Since it was getting slower and slower, it sounds just like what my '99 LX was doing.

Clean the channels as best you can with Q-Tips, water, and a little soap I guess. Let it dry.

Pick up a tube of Shin Etzu grease from your Honda dealer, will be about $15 for a 100 gram tube (about the size of a tube of toothpaste). It's an industrial strengh silicone lubricant, great stuff. Spread this stuff in the channels with Q-Tips.

Voila! Your window will work like new again. Hopefully.

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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:31 AM
  #5  
dakers01's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO, USA
Default Re: power windows (Heat)

the window is stuck in the "up" position...when i engage the lever the window doesn't budge...not sure how i will be able to lower it?
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 10:14 AM
  #6  
Heat's Avatar
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From: Springfield, IL, USA
Default Re: power windows (dakers01)

When you engage the window, do you hear the motor working?

If so, have one person engage the switch while you are standing outside the car, with the door open, with one hand on either side of the glass pushing down.

If you don't hear the motor then the motor is probably busted.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 10:38 AM
  #7  
dakers01's Avatar
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Default Re: power windows (Heat)

no, i don't hear any motor noise. over the course of the last few months, the motor noise became more and more sluggish until the window finally stopped working altogether.
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 09:47 AM
  #8  
dakers01's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO, USA
Default Re: power windows (Heat)

so, i have purchased a new motor/regulator assembly. per my chilton manual, i must lower the window to access (remove) the glass mounting bolts.

considering my window is stuck in the up position, can anyone provide me with guidance on how to lower the window?

thanks in advance...
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 01:15 PM
  #9  
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From: Denver, CO, USA
Default Re: power windows (dakers01)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dakers01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">per my chilton manual, i must lower the window to access (remove) the glass mounting bolts. considering my window is stuck in the up position, can anyone provide me with guidance on how to lower the window?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no need to respond to my question above, upon removing the door panel and moisture sheath i discovered access to the glass mounting bolts (while the window was in the up position). had the window been in the lowered position, access to the bolts would have been much more difficult - as there are not access openings for both bolts. this is at least the case on my '95 EX.

at last, after a 4 month hiatus, my driver's side window is operating properly once again!
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #10  
dakers01's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO, USA
Default Re: power windows (dakers01)

a word of warning when removing the f/d/s interior door handle/lock...

there is a single screw that must be removed in order to free the molded plastic piece (housing the handle/lock) from the door panel. one might think this molded plastic piece may be pulled directly away from the door panel, however it must be slid to the right about 1/4". this motion will allow the 3 "claws" on the back of the molded plastic piece to exit the 3 rectangular openings cut out of the door's inner metal wall. together with the screw, these 3 "claws" help anchor the handle when opening the door.

per page 10-15 (Body & Trim; Door Panels) of the chilton guide, "3. Remove the cover for the inside door handle. It is usually secured by a single screw. Remove it, then slide the cover off over the handle."

as u can see, this instruction set is vague. for my '95 accord, at least, the handle and cover are a single piece. there's no "sliding the cover over the handle", which i learned the hard way...


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