whats the diffrence on stage one and two clutches. is it the hp or does stage 2 grab better than 1

 

most stage ones that i have seen a pretty close to an oem replacement. stage 2 will hold more hp than a 1, but also can increase clutch feel and chatter. makes daily driving alittle more difficult, but if your clutch isnt slipping due to your hp it is highly worth it

 

im not putting out that much hp only like 190 so i dont need much but i want it to grab hard when i shift.

 

well if your planning on staying there you should be fine. but if you want to have more in the future i would just do it now since you'll already be in there

 

thanks ill probley do a stage 2. exept its hard to drive because theres no tolence on the clutch its in or out lol. i test drove one once and i killed it like 3 times

 

lol ya things like that you get used to. good luck with it man.

 

Just so you know, clutches aren't rated in HP, but TQ. Only eBay clutches list HP. Anyway, the Exedy stage 1 holds 36% more TQ over their OE, and stage 2 is like 70% more

 

i debated this topic and with some help from fellow h-ters i think im gunna just go with stage 1.

 

well at least you aren't getting a exedy organic (unless its a stage 1 now)

they've had some problems with springs and discs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petern101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well at least you aren't getting a exedy organic (unless its a stage 1 now)

they've had some problems with springs and discs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Luckily I haven't had any probs with my organic... well... at least that I can tell LoL. It's been a year or two since I've put it in.

 

its an exedy stage 1 organic disc. i heard some bad things about them a while back but now its all good news so i hope it will work for me. Im buying the stage 1 + 8 lb fly

 

uhoh- I just ordered one of those haha. Oh well, an excuse to move up to a stage 2 once i get boost wouldnt be too bad

 

yeah i'm on the exedy organic + fidanza 8lb too. for about 2 years.

no problem but it doesn't shift a little worse at high revs (i've noticed lately) could be a master/slave problem but it works so i don't complain

 

Don't waste your money on that crap...either go for a stage 3 or better or just stick to a stage one...there is no reason to pay over $100 more for a clutch that makes little to no difference....

Unless you guys plan on b00sting your car soon (man what a gay idea ) then just stick to a stage 1....**** I have a clutchmasters stage 1 in my car that makes more power than 90% of you guys, and after 30k miles it is still fine

 

lol thats what i like to hear on my endless decision making process of picking out a clutch lol. gotta love bb4ever for his 2 cents sometime

 

I gave 3 cents bitches

 

lol whose counting

 

anyone got 4 cents? 3 cents going once, twice...

 

Here is my $.04

Exedy Stage 2 Clutch Organic
ACT Xact 12lb Flywheel

No problems and no chatter, me likey.

 

i heard light weight flywheels are not good because they flex when u rev it up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themurrell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard light weight flywheels are not good because they flex when u rev it up</TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard that you have no idea what you're talking about.

 

i'm going turbo so i'll probably be getting a stage3. how are light weight flywheels with boost?

 

From what ive heard unless i'm backwords and you guys can correct me is.

Boosted motor's dont really need lightweight flywheels...but any NA setup it helps.

 

Its not a matter of "needing" something

A lightweight flywheel serves only one purpose, to reduce the mass moment of inertia of the crank and everything attached to it....
Now, torque is defined as the rate of change in angular momentum. Angular momentum "L"is as follows. L=I*w*Nhat

I= moment of inertia
w= angular speed (directly related to rpm in this case)
Nhat = the unit vector indicating the direction to the mass from the axis of rotation.

Since torque "N" is the rate of change of this....the following is the derivative of L

dL/dt = N = I*Nhat*(dw/dt)

further analysis is unnecessary, but from this you can see that torque is directly related to the moment of inertia. So a reduction in moment of inertia should equal a reduction in torque.

However, the energy consumed in turning the crankshaft is also effected by the change in weight of the flywheel. Analysis of kinetic energy can be used to prove that.

Kinetic energy "T" is defined as follows:
T=(1/2)*m*v^2
For a rotating body
v=w*r
v= angular speed * distance from axis of rotation

So, T=(1/2)*m*(wr)^2
w and r remain constant
As M decreases, T decreases, so less energy is consumed in turning the crankshaft.

Therefore, it can be said that while having a lighter flywheel reduces the amount of energy necessary to accelerate the angular speed of the crankshaft. Meaning that an engine with a lighter flywheel should rev more quickly.

It can also be said that a lighter flywheel somewhat reduces the torque output of an engine. To put the earlier calculations more simply, turn your ceiling fan on high. Watch as the blades quickly accelerate to full speed. Now stick your head in between the blades as they're spinning. Ow. It will hurt, but relatively little, maybe just a little bruise.
Now, strap 10lb weights to each fan blade. See how it takes extra long to get to speed. Now try and stick your head in there to stop them....

Now, that is a bit of an extreme change. Changing from a 20lb stock flywheel to an 8lb aftermarket flywheel constitutes a much smaller percent change in mass (and mass moment of inertia) than the fan blade example. The crankshaft, all the counterweights, the pistons and rods, and the crank pulley all contribute to the mass moment of inertia of the crank, so 12lbs off the flywheel isn't a whole lot....

You will notice it revving a little more freely....though you will lose a bit of torque according to physics....due to the fact that it is a pain in the *** to back to back dyno a change in flywheel on a chassis dyno nobody has done a test and really figured out what happens.....

Some boosted engines, the sr20 is a good example of this, do not benefit from lightening the flywheel, due to the fact that they need all the inertia they can get in the higher rpm as it takes a lot more force to push the pistons up to compress an already boosted intake charge, they end up losing big hp up to due to that...

 

lol and i will say it again
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gotta love bb4ever for his 2 cents sometimes </TD></TR></TABLE>