What kind of media/grit should I use to blast my engine block? I want bare fresh aluminum thats not oxidized and I dont want to paint it. I have a blast cabinet so I might as well blast it. All journals, mating surfaces and holes have been taped off. And it will be thouroughly cleaned out then hot tanked when Im done.

 

I wouldn't blast it. No matter how hard you try to clean out all of the oil passages you can still have crap in there.

 

Thats not the answer Im looking for. I have a complete set of engine cleaning brushes and all the freeze plugs removed. It will be hand cleaned then pressure washed then hot tanked. Believe me it will be clean.

Aluminum oxide, glass media, walnut media?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats not the answer Im looking for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol I know what I'm doing is wrong but please someone tell me that it's right so I can't blame myself when everything ***** up.

Ok here's the answer you're looking for... sand. Sand is awesome to clean up your block and it has special properties which make it not blast through tape.

Find a chemical means of cleaning it or buy a new block if you want a clean look.

 

I blasted several block before...

Start with sand, to get the cleaning action. or if you do not want to sand blast it, well hot tank it THEN ::
you have to use #10 glass bead to clean it, it will get back like new with those bead, smaller grade will not clean as much a #10 but will leave a smoother finish, bigger then 10, you will geat a embossed finish with ding in the casting, be carefull to use the right air pressure, of course with a dissicant in the air line to trapp moisture.

hope this help

jp

 

Ive heard sand will impregnant itself in the aluminum. Would it be better to just stick with all glass media? Do you have any pictures of how your blocks came out?

 

The new systems use what is basically baking soda.Any leftover media just goes into solution with the cleaning water.Unfortunately the blast cabinets are specialized for soda and you can't use soda in a convectional cabinet.Glass bead will do the best job cleaning with the least damage.I'm not a fan of using "black beauty" in a cabinet.There are lots of cleaning medias(like walnut shells) but I have never tried them.Metal finish companies (anodizing,chroming,etc...) use some chemical "brightening" solutions.That maybe worth a try.You want the block as degreased as possible before glass beading.Most of the damage from glass bead contamination is from the beads sticking to the gunk and the being released when the engine oil warms up.

 

Thanks for the response. The block is 100% clean. Its just oxidized from the NY winters. It was baking soda blasted last rebuild and I didnt notice a difference, not a fan. Will glass beads make it looks like a new block again?

 

I had a d16 block that was fairly corroded on the back side, and let a shop clean it. From what they tell me, they degreased it, then blasted with baking soda, as mentioned above. I'll post pics soon of before/after. The surfaces have an almost oil smoothness because the media didn't etch the surface much, very very finely though. I'm very impressed by their work.

 

Glass Bead will work fine and it will look better than new bead size 70-140 is what I use for all around stuff
make sure you get bead not broken glass

 

Sorry Sir, no picture of my work's.

#10 glass bead will bring you the finish you want I'm shure, as mentionned before, do no use crushed glass, you need glass bead, crushed glass will leave a rough finish, glass bead with leave a smooth and even finish.

degrease it very good before you start glass beading it, if you have access to a hot tub, then go for it before and after, you will end up with a brand new block...

really hope this help !

jp

 

Im going to be picking up some 80 grit glass bead media from Harbor Freight. Its already clean and been hot tanked. I'll be blasting it this weekend and posting pics.

 

I dont know the grit the the #10 glass bead, but 80 grit sound coars a bit for this job, I think that the finish will be rough with that low of a grit, I would use at leat 200 grit...

just a thought.. but let us see the final result !

good luck!
jp

 

post us a pic when your done =]

 

Do not use sand - the silica is really, really bad for your lungs, which is why sand is not used much any more. If you need a sharp media, use something like aluminum oxide. Harbor Frieght sells it.

Glass beads are the way to go on cast aluminum, as mentioned. You get what is essentially a tiny 'hammer finnish' with little smooth dimples. It is shiner that what you get with a sharp media and stays clean longer. Start with a fairly low air pressure in the blaster and work up to just the level where it starts working well. If you use really high pressure, the glass beads will shatter and loose their effectiveness.

Best of luck with your project.

 

Friend linked me to this thread.


I need to have an aluminum head blasted. Should I use the glass bead media?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4_MADMAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to have an aluminum head blasted. Should I use the glass bead media?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Soda if available, glass beads are a very close second choice.

There are also fairly soft media (walnut shells, ect.) available for using on aluminum, but I have not used them myself. Part of what will drive your choice is how bad the surface is and how much the media needs to remove.

Best of luck with your project.

 

Glass bead blasted with "AC" glass beads, then brass brushed.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1317508

 

This is my block blasted with some kind of red glass bead...



and the head done with white (regular) glass bead:



DO NOT DO IT ull regret it when u reassemble the engine and still find sand even after many hrs of cleaning

 

even if you have it hot tanked after and pressure cleaned

 

i don't understand how hot tanking it a bunch of times won't get it completely clean off all the blasting media.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by full Circling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't understand how hot tanking it a bunch of times won't get it completely clean off all the blasting media.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you ever had sex on the beach? No matter what you do... you'll always end up having sand in your ***.

 

I've blasted plenty of heads and block before, all you have to do is tape off the deck of the block and where the oil pan is, and on heads just the deck and the valve cover. IF you don't you will spend a lifetime to get all the blasting media out.

 

I just use a pump and parts cleaner to get the media out, sometimes even white gas.