I wish I would have taken a before pix of this block but I would have to say it was one of the ugliest blocks I have ever seen. It was totally corroded and you can still see some holes in the block if you look closely. We decided to tumble clean this block in a giant media vat. Turns out this is quite time consuming to do and takes a lot of labor to prepare the block. Therefore it was quite expensive.
The following pix are exactly how the block came out...no paint or any other coatings.

 

Looks sweet. Why not just media blast it?

 

how expensive is quite expensive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Therefore it was quite expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>


just wondering how much $ ??

 

Ultimately it add about $300 to the cost. This was just pretty much an experiment to see the results and costs. A can of paint seems much cheaper

 

WOW that really looks good after that process. I imagine you could include this service in the block packages. Very nice Earl!

 

At first I thought, "Tumbling a block? That can't be good."

Then I realized you meant tumbling the media, and not the block itself.

Looks great.

 

wow

 

super clean look...i likes


Modified by lucidvtec at 3:57 AM 7/24/2005

 

Clean, clean, clean. I might just need to do that to my block

 

In that first pic, on the front, looks like some kinda mount is broken off?

 

Blin , Bling, Bling,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elitesi8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In that first pic, on the front, looks like some kinda mount is broken off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It probably came in like that. But it looks like a bolt hole for the A/C. The front motor mount is more centered and lower.

Besides, if they're getting a build from Earl, I don't think they're actually thinking of keeping A/C.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks sweet. Why not just media blast it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a block that was media blasted and it definately looks clean ... but not quite that clean , not to the point that it catches a glare like that block.

 

The block came to me with those ears already broken off. I did not see the cleaning process so I can't explain how it really works. I believe the block is taped off in the bearing areas and some other critical spots. We did not have them tape the deck as it would be surfaced anyway. The block is then blasted by hand to get some of the major problem areas and then thrown in a vat of some kind of polishing media where it spins for like 6 hours, I think.

The funny thing is one of my customers is going to get his block back with sleeves but I am not saying a word about the polish job, haha. This was basically just an experiment to see the results of the restoration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> A can of paint seems much cheaper </TD></TR></TABLE>


Still looks pretty sick though.

 

I take it you have to do this before the sleeving process?

Thanks,
Corey

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ultimately it add about $300 to the cost. This was just pretty much an experiment to see the results and costs. A can of paint seems much cheaper </TD></TR></TABLE>

In my experience... painting a block that is for a turbocharged application is a HORRIBLE idea. I did it a few years ago and the heat ends up making the paint tacky and dirt sticks to it like no other. The wastegate likes to make it dirty as well... dumptubes of course will help out but I think you guys get the point here.

The bad thing about paint is you cannot clean it with parts cleaner. One hit of parts cleaner and the paint runs... I've tried the 1500deg F high temp paints in case you guys are wondering. I basically pressure wash every block I do then take a wire brush to it and clean it up... it's definetely cheaper and ends up like this:





The good thing though about a block that is media tumbled or done like I do is that to clean it all you need is some good parts cleaner. A can or 2 and you are back to new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95c1v1cs1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I take it you have to do this before the sleeving process?

Thanks,
Corey</TD></TR></TABLE>definitely before sleeving

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The front motor mount is more centered and lower.

</TD></TR></TABLE>nah the motor mount is the 3 holes under the engine tag. awesome look though i would want my block to look like this, after sometimes passes it would be easy to keep clean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The block came to me with those ears already broken off. I did not see the cleaning process so I can't explain how it really works. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they tricked you and used paint while you weren't there!

 

We usually bead blast all our blocks , I think Golden Eagle do it while sleevinig it for an extra $50.
It looks alot better than spending all that money and the block still looks like it came junk yard .

 

I've had a block and a head blasted before. It came out super clean, but it seemed to pick up dirt from everywhere. It just never seems to stay as clean as good ol' high temp aluminum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I did not see the cleaning process so I can't explain how it really works. I believe the block is taped off in the bearing areas and some other critical spots. We did not have them tape the deck as it would be surfaced anyway. The block is then blasted by hand to get some of the major problem areas and then thrown in a vat of some kind of polishing media where it spins for like 6 hours, I think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to work in a machine shop and I had the "privilege" of using the machine that was used to clean that block. It is basically a huge vat filled with a liquid, usually water, and small pieces of media. The whole thing vibrates violently and the media and parts simply roll around in the vat. You can leave it in there as long as you want, obviously the longer you leave it the cleaner it gets. The machine is annoyingly loud, especially one large enough to put a whole block in. But as you can see, the results are impressive. I don't know why it would cost $300 though, you could probably just leave the main caps on with old bearings. There really isn't the potential for much damage to occur with this process from what I've seen and the process is actually quite low maintenance. It's not like you need to stand there and watch it tumble around. Set it and forget it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I've had a block and a head blasted before. It came out super clean, but it seemed to pick up dirt from everywhere. It just never seems to stay as clean as good ol' high temp aluminum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The blasting process roughens up the surface while making it more uniform. All the blasted parts I've seen feel like fine sandpaper. This gives every little bit of NEW grease and dirt a great foothold.

This media tumbling is probably a much better alternative in the long run. Smooooth!