Well I got my cylinder head back from the machine shop and getting ready to install everything. My machine guy said that I would need to adjust the valve clearance. I have the helms manual and I understand how to do it but what I don't know is should I put everything back togheter (i.e. put the cylinder head back on the block and bolt it down) and then adjust the valve clearance or do I have to do this with the head off the block.

Thanks.

 

do it with the head and timing belt on.

 

Yeah, valve clearance is the last thing you will do.

 

Thanks alot guys. I appriciate all the help. BTW do I need any special tools for this? I know I need the feeler gauge which shouldn't cost much, but when I look at the helms manual it shows some other gizmos. Would I require those or can I use something else in subsitute of those?

Thanks again,

 

Just a 10mm socket, a screwdriver and a feeler guage... and some patients.

 

Personally I don't worry about the special holder tool, I use a simple 12mm socket and a flathead screwdriver. Just check the clearance again after you torque down the locknut and 95% of the time it will not have changed from torquing the nut.

You probably want a 19mm deep socket to rotate the crank also

 

i bought a brand new valve adjustment tool off ebay for 20 dollars.

 

Sweet deal. Now that im on a questioning spree, let me ask away. I was wondering if I need to pre-oil anything before I install the cylinder head? would I need to pour some oil on the top of the cylinder head prior of putting the valve cover back on?

Also the machine shop removed the dowl pins (the 2 round metal things that hold the head gasket on) and removed the oil oriface in the middle of the cylinder head and the electrical connector on the side. I know I can re-used the connector, just threads in the head but should I use any teflon tape so it won't leak from the threads? Should I purchase new dowl pins also? The helms manual doesn't mention it.

And should I purchase a new oil oriface and ring or could I use the old one?

Thanks...this should be all the questions for now lol.

 

Get some moly lube or assembly lube from the machine shop and coat everything with that before you start it...wouldn't hurt either to pour oil all over everything.

Definately get some dowel pins, you need those to make sure everything lines up right.

I would think you could use the oil oriface and ring but I don't know for sure....

 

Well I still have my dowl pins that my machine shop removed from the cylinder head....when I removed the head from the block there were only 2 dowl pins. Should I purchase more or 2 is sufficient?

 

If it only had 2 before, then just put those 2 back in...I wasn't trying to tell you to upgrade to more dowel pins or anything, just to get it back to how it was stock.

 

BTW, why use a socket to adjust the valves? I use an open ended box wrench to snug up the nut that way I can hold the screw driver to make sure that I am not ruining what I just did. After it is fairly tight then i used my torque wrench with a socket to get it to spec. Then of course check it again. Not a huge deal but it might save you some time.