So i bought a new beater for the winter. Its a civic dx with a first gen b16 OBDO

I bought it for $1000, fixed up the body and painted it, made an intake and beat on it all week. I read that the redline was 8000, but I had a DX so I didnt know what I was revving to. I got used to where I would hit the the rev limiter and shifted before that, seemingly felt like I was revving out the gear

Well today I installed a tach, and whatdya know, 4800 rpm redline. Cuts power

Im throwing no codes. Only thing I noticed that needs some attention is that when you start it up cold, sometimes itll bog down and die, and if you hit the gas itll just die. Or if its only been going for like 15 secodns and you try and rev it, itll stuttter for a second at that rpm and then itll rev like normal. But will only rev to 4800

One sensor appears to be broken or atleast the wires pulled out, the sensor closest to the front of the car on the cylinder head under the distributor, I think a coolant temp, the wires seem to be pulled out if.

Oil level is fine

Need advise

Thanks

 

codes? if coolant temp is fucked then that is a problem. what about dist issues?

 

No codes, but I feel the CEL in the cluster might be pulled out by the previous owner, as I just realized it isnt going off when the fuel pump primes....

Coolant temp isnt fucked, still reads fine on teh gauge, just the 2 wires (grren white, red white I believe, are pulled)

 

temp sensor for gauge and temp sensor for ecm are two seperate

 

closest to the front of the car under the dist is the one Im looking at

bump

 

I also found that the check engine light was burned out/ swapped and Im throwing a stored code 6 and code 14

 

Cleaned IACV with carb cleaner, didnt do ****, reset the ecu and everything.

Dunno if it affects vtec or why I have this rev limit though

I guess I gotta buy a new coolant temp sensor

 

bump

 

have you fixed the temp sensor yet? if not why are you bumping the thread?

 

Mr. Jared, I just got back form the junkyard and found a temp sensor with a nice wire harness and clip out of a d15, hopefully it works.

Also found a a long bolt pattern IACV on another d15 of some sort so hopefully its still good and will get rid of the code, just gotta soak the bitch in carb cleaner

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mr. Jared, I just got back form the junkyard and found a temp sensor with a nice wire harness and clip out of a d15, hopefully it works.

Also found a a long bolt pattern IACV on another d15 of some sort so hopefully its still good and will get rid of the code, just gotta soak the bitch in carb cleaner</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep us posted.

 

So I changed the coolant temp sensor, nice factory harness clip and everything and that code is now gone

I also swapped in the very clean IACV but I still have the IACV code

I can now rev the car freely in nuetral past 4800 rpm

Also, when driving in first I can wind it out to about 6000, then you can feel its not making any more power. 2nd I also wound out to about 6krpm and again felt no more power

I did hit the rev limiter again once, seems to be about 6krpm

Its raining out hard so I cant really beat on the car, but I think the aftermarket tach might be screwy at those rpms or something, worked fine on my d16a6 a month ago though

I dont know if I have vtec or not, the first time I wound out first Im pretty sure I heard the distinct sound, but the second gear pull i didnt hear anything.

Also, for reference, I got 2nd gear up to 60mph @ the 6k rpm. Is that normal? LS trans maybe?

 

 

Its a 90 Civic Dx
I have no idea about the timing

The redlimit as it stands now is 100% 6200rpm, I do not hear vtec engaging, tried multiple times

It is a PR3 ecu, which is correct for the obd0 b16a

 

Changed the oil, reset ecu, cleaned the battery terminals and the car now rev freely and powerfully to 8k+

Im not gettin VTEC engaging though

The only code Im getting is for the IACV, would that cause it? I doubt it

Kinda stumped on why thats not engaging

 

heres a dumb Suggestion but i had Kinda the Same problem today, off the thermostat crack the bleeder open While ur car is runnin and at operating temp to get all the air outta the SyStem, coolant is ran through the IACV So if there Was air in the SyStem it Would mess it up, bled mine and it fixed everything