Which brake pads to go with?
I couldn't really find too much after searching. I'm considering either the Hawk HPS or the Axxis Ultimate, or the AEM pads.
These will be going on a '93 del sol si that is about 95 % street driven daily(sometimes in heavy traffic) the other 5% is done at road racing and dragstrip events. I had hawk HPS on the front of my old hatch(it had rear drums) and they made a world of difference over the stock pads. But I'm seeing that there's a fairly noticeable price difference between the 3 of them (typically 15-20 bucks per set).
So I guess I'm asking what pads do you guys go with for an upgrade from stock? and are the hawks the best for the money? If I don't have a pad I've listed that you think is better than the 3 I'm thinking of, please tell me.
To compliment the new pads, I'll also be getting new brembo blanks, and SS brakelines.
These will be going on a '93 del sol si that is about 95 % street driven daily(sometimes in heavy traffic) the other 5% is done at road racing and dragstrip events. I had hawk HPS on the front of my old hatch(it had rear drums) and they made a world of difference over the stock pads. But I'm seeing that there's a fairly noticeable price difference between the 3 of them (typically 15-20 bucks per set).
So I guess I'm asking what pads do you guys go with for an upgrade from stock? and are the hawks the best for the money? If I don't have a pad I've listed that you think is better than the 3 I'm thinking of, please tell me.
To compliment the new pads, I'll also be getting new brembo blanks, and SS brakelines.
I tried the new EBC Yellow Stuff R-compound pads on my old DD/weekend-track EM1. They are a track pad, but are supposed to be streetable. Cold bite is not the best, but it's actually quite good, and they held up well to two track weekends. No appreciable wear to the pads or disks (rotors still had the machining cross-hatch on themn after the first event). Since I started cryo-treating my rotors though, pads and rotors last a whole lot longer than they used to, so I don't know if it's the pads, the cryo, or some combination of both. I had Rotora blanks on that car, just because they were in stock locally, but probably any rotor would be fine. I put a cheap set of Brembo blanks on the new car, but haven't got the motor in it yet, so no driving impressions, but I'm going to stick with the EBC Yellows for a while.
Anything hotter than the ultimates for a daily driver and you're asking for trouble. I've also used the Ultimates and Metal master pads. Both are made by PBR. Used them both for track days as well. If you're doing track days in hotter climates you might want to add brake ducting. Or tracks with several heavy braking areas.
My brakes with the Ultimates were smoking at Thunderhill. During the cool season as well.
My brakes with the Ultimates were smoking at Thunderhill. During the cool season as well.
ultimates arent suitable for a track day.
theres no such thing as a suitable DD and serious track pad.
bring ultimates or any other street pad like HPS or R4S to the track, youre wasting your time babying your brakes on the track.
theres no such thing as a suitable DD and serious track pad.
bring ultimates or any other street pad like HPS or R4S to the track, youre wasting your time babying your brakes on the track.
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I consider that a generality. With brake ducting I couldn't get the brakes to over heat at PIR at all. That's why I say depending on the track and conditions. I'm not argueing a real track pad isn't going to stop the car better...that's obvious.
Good fluid, ducting, hotter than stock pads and for many tracks that's all you need. If the car is near stock anyways.
Good fluid, ducting, hotter than stock pads and for many tracks that's all you need. If the car is near stock anyways.
it very much is a general statement.
and i think GENERALLY, most ppl arent going to resort to adding a proper air ducting assembly either.
btw, any thoughts on Hawk HP+? is this the pad that is the exception to the rule? (im looking for a track pad that isnt as aggressive as a race pad like blues are but can still take the heat, and stock is fine for me on the street.)
and i think GENERALLY, most ppl arent going to resort to adding a proper air ducting assembly either.
btw, any thoughts on Hawk HP+? is this the pad that is the exception to the rule? (im looking for a track pad that isnt as aggressive as a race pad like blues are but can still take the heat, and stock is fine for me on the street.)
well like I said, the car is at least 95% daily driver, I don't street race, although from time to time I do do some spirited driving. My main concern is just simply stopping better than stock, and no I don't want to get race pads as they generally need to be warmed up pretty good to work as they are meant to. I'm leaning towards the ultimates because of the price and a few people have said they like them better (for my style purposes that is) than the more expensive hawk hps.
here's the brake setup I'll be running on my near stock sol si
-SS brake lines(just for firmer fealing...I know they don't really increase brake perfomance)
-Street compound pads at all 4 corners
-brembo blanks at all 4 corners, maybe the more expensive powerslots for that nicer look
here's the brake setup I'll be running on my near stock sol si
-SS brake lines(just for firmer fealing...I know they don't really increase brake perfomance)
-Street compound pads at all 4 corners
-brembo blanks at all 4 corners, maybe the more expensive powerslots for that nicer look
You can track whatever pad you want. I've been to the track with crappy OEM street pads, I just had to brake earlier and softer to keep from burning them up. The better the pads, the harder you can push them, but the more you compromise your daily driving performance. Out of the original 3 listed, I'd definitely avoid the AEM pads, they are re-boxed Nissin ceramic street pads. I ran them at VIR once and they basically evaporated when I got on the brakes a bit too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been to the track with crappy OEM street pads, I just had to brake earlier and softer to keep from burning them up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
but thats like saying you cant accelerate as fast and need to limit your speeds on track because your engine is gonna fail.
but thats like saying you cant accelerate as fast and need to limit your speeds on track because your engine is gonna fail.
I have yet to try the Hawk HP+ but from the research I've done they are in the same or close heat range as the Ultimates. They might be better but I wouln't know.
Definately stay away from the stock pads if you can. I've also tracked them. Even as a noob I fried the pads. I could not stop the car. Thankfully it was at the Festval curves at PIR which has run off space.
Definately stay away from the stock pads if you can. I've also tracked them. Even as a noob I fried the pads. I could not stop the car. Thankfully it was at the Festval curves at PIR which has run off space.
ultimates would be more like hawk HPS.
ultimates are a great street pad.
yes, youll get around the track on them. just like youd have to limit your speeds, no fun. and youll potentially wear them out DRASTICALLY faster, which blows away the money you put into a good street pad.
you save more money in the end with a dedicated track setup.
ultimates are a great street pad.
yes, youll get around the track on them. just like youd have to limit your speeds, no fun. and youll potentially wear them out DRASTICALLY faster, which blows away the money you put into a good street pad.
you save more money in the end with a dedicated track setup.
btw, if youre going to the track for the FIRST time, just focus on making sure your brakes are maintained (fresh fluid) and in good working order. you dont need to worry about the capability of your pads in the novice "caravan" session. youll have too much worrying about everything else, and wont be achieving any speeds and decelerations where braking is an issue.
so to the OP, fine, get the ultimates and enjoy your first day at the track.
but once you get that hit of the Go Fast Crack Pipe, youll want to get a dedicated setup.
so to the OP, fine, get the ultimates and enjoy your first day at the track.
but once you get that hit of the Go Fast Crack Pipe, youll want to get a dedicated setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-sol_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here's the brake setup I'll be running on my near stock sol si
-SS brake lines(just for firmer fealing...I know they don't really increase brake perfomance)
-Street compound pads at all 4 corners
-brembo blanks at all 4 corners, maybe the more expensive powerslots for that nicer look</TD></TR></TABLE>
i am thinking about getting a new brake system for my car also, and i am looking into buying new brake lines, so i was wondering if u could elaborate on why u chose SS lines?
-SS brake lines(just for firmer fealing...I know they don't really increase brake perfomance)
-Street compound pads at all 4 corners
-brembo blanks at all 4 corners, maybe the more expensive powerslots for that nicer look</TD></TR></TABLE>
i am thinking about getting a new brake system for my car also, and i am looking into buying new brake lines, so i was wondering if u could elaborate on why u chose SS lines?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but thats like saying you cant accelerate as fast and need to limit your speeds on track because your engine is gonna fail. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it's like saying that sometimes you make compromises based on what you have. If everything's not just perfect for the track, should I just stay home?
but thats like saying you cant accelerate as fast and need to limit your speeds on track because your engine is gonna fail. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it's like saying that sometimes you make compromises based on what you have. If everything's not just perfect for the track, should I just stay home?
i would.
1. why take the safety risk.
2. why waste my time and money.
3. why hold up anyone else on track.
come to the track prepared or dont come at all.
1. why take the safety risk.
2. why waste my time and money.
3. why hold up anyone else on track.
come to the track prepared or dont come at all.
But there is more than one level of track preparedness. They can wait for the next straight. But yes if it's a saftey matter as was my little happening with stock pads was, you should at least take it easy with braking.
It's not racing. SOmetimes I purposely slow down to get space from the other drivers. Just let them drive away from me.
It's not racing. SOmetimes I purposely slow down to get space from the other drivers. Just let them drive away from me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lqd44 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i am thinking about getting a new brake system for my car also, and i am looking into buying new brake lines, so i was wondering if u could elaborate on why u chose SS lines? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well, the stock brake lines are what 13-15 years old, and new lines from honda are almost as much if not more. SS lines don't expand as much (giving the firmer feeling) and the SS braid gives an extra layer of protection against road debris and other problems that brake lines might incur
i am thinking about getting a new brake system for my car also, and i am looking into buying new brake lines, so i was wondering if u could elaborate on why u chose SS lines? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well, the stock brake lines are what 13-15 years old, and new lines from honda are almost as much if not more. SS lines don't expand as much (giving the firmer feeling) and the SS braid gives an extra layer of protection against road debris and other problems that brake lines might incur
We manufacture brake systems, mostly large stuff.
SS Brake lines are a must, as pointed out earlier. The Pedal feels better and brakes are protected better from road debris.
As far as pads goes, two sets of pads are a good idea Hawk HPS for every day and Hawk blues for race should work. Think of wear and tear on the street pads at race day, they're cooked if you drive them to hard. But also bewar of rotors overheating and warping.
We have a few solutions for extreme braking.
SS Brake lines are a must, as pointed out earlier. The Pedal feels better and brakes are protected better from road debris.
As far as pads goes, two sets of pads are a good idea Hawk HPS for every day and Hawk blues for race should work. Think of wear and tear on the street pads at race day, they're cooked if you drive them to hard. But also bewar of rotors overheating and warping.
We have a few solutions for extreme braking.
Tyson, don't tell my Ultimates this as they might start to act differently. In over 20k street miles and 6 track days I'm only on my 2nd set of Ultimates. Sure, they're not as aggressive on the track as other pads, but I've yet to overheat them.
I must also note that I'm putting down a whopping 105 hp (at the crank), so YMMV.
I must also note that I'm putting down a whopping 105 hp (at the crank), so YMMV.



