ok, the car is a 1995 civic coupe. Ive tried everything in the haynes manual. The switch light turns on. I set my meter to ohm and went from left prong on window (negative) to chasis and got a reading. I went from positive to neg prongs and get around 11 volts when the switch is on. The whole right side of the panel grid (where the positive prong sits) gives me voltage and so do the actual lines BUT only right next to the positive terminal, so it seems as if the lines are getting power, but that the power does not spread across the lines...power dies not even half an inch away from the right side of the window...near the positive terminal (all lines display this behavior) . Also, when i try to get a reading on the middle of each of the lines, i get no voltage whatsoever on any of them!!


Now, here is the thing, I had the window replaced due to vandalism shortly after i got car (dont know if the old window defrost worked or not) so I actually have the opportunity to get a new window put in (under warranty) IF the window is the problem....I am really trying to avoid this though since I am not sure if the Window is the actual problem (they seem to be clueless at the window place but willing to replace it, its a little shop that just knows how to install glass and nothing else), also I got a fresh paintjob and they may scratch the paint changing the window...thus I really have to be sure that the window is the problem to risk this

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated....Its Dangerous not being able to see out the back when its raining out here in NY

Thanks alot guys and girls!!

 

that is unique. 11V is low. is that with the engine running?

try making a measurement with the power connector unplugged and with it plugged and compare the readings. seems like you have a good head in diagnosing the problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blue00sifun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, the car is a 1995 civic coupe. Ive tried everything in the haynes manual. The switch light turns on. I set my meter to ohm and went from left prong on window (negative) to chasis and got a reading.

regarding the statement in bold. i think you are testing to see if there are any breaks in the lines? not sure if that is a valid test cause if one line is broken the ones that are intact will show continuity.

I went from positive to neg prongs and get around 11 volts when the switch is on. The whole right side of the panel grid (where the positive prong sits) gives me voltage and so do the actual lines BUT only right next to the positive terminal, so it seems as if the lines are getting power, but that the power does not spread across the lines...power dies not even half an inch away from the right side of the window...near the positive terminal (all lines display this behavior) . Also, when i try to get a reading on the middle of each of the lines, i get no voltage whatsoever on any of them!!

resistance too high? you should be blowing fuses or burning the lines out

Now, here is the thing, I had the window replaced due to vandalism shortly after i got car (dont know if the old window defrost worked or not) so I actually have the opportunity to get a new window put in (under warranty) IF the window is the problem....I am really trying to avoid this though since I am not sure if the Window is the actual problem (they seem to be clueless at the window place but willing to replace it, its a little shop that just knows how to install glass and nothing else), also I got a fresh paintjob and they may scratch the paint changing the window...thus I really have to be sure that the window is the problem to risk this

could be a short to ground when the glass was replaced but then again you would be blowing fuses

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated....Its Dangerous not being able to see out the back when its raining out here in NY

Thanks alot guys and girls!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

The readings are almost identical....around 12 DC volts with the car running.... what is the voltage supposed to be? This has me stumped

 

should be closer to 13V depending on the alt. my Talon put out close to 14V.

are you using a digital or analog meter? you can get a good accurate digital (better than analog) from radioshack

try measuring the voltage right at the connector plugged in and unplugged

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blue00sifun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The readings are almost identical....around 12 DC volts with the car running.... what is the voltage supposed to be? This has me stumped </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I have a digital. I measured both plugged and unplugged. Is there a possibility that the whole grid is just busted? After all, this is a junkyard window that was put into the car. I just want to exhaust all possibilities before making them put in another back window. It would really suck if the back window was not the problem and I make them put another one on.

I appreciate the help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blue00sifun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a digital. I measured both plugged and unplugged.

what were the readings?

Is there a possibility that the whole grid is just busted?

not likely. if 99 out of 100 lines are broken you'd still have continuity. try measuring the resistance (OHMS) it should be higher than 100 OHMS again with the connector unplugged.

After all, this is a junkyard window that was put into the car. I just want to exhaust all possibilities before making them put in another back window. It would really suck if the back window was not the problem and I make them put another one on.

I appreciate the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

gotta sign off, best of luck

try testing for continuity, with the connector out, from the lines to ground. if there is a short, that could be the problem. AGAIN, if this is the case, you should be blowing fuses.