Here's What i did tonight, I changed, the Thermostate, with a new OEM honda type-r one, with a fel-pro gasket, i also doing this, drainned all the coolent and what not from the motor, after installing everything, back to the way it was, and tighting down everything good, i filled up the radiator..I started it and drove around, i hit vtec a few times, and come back i lifted my hood, No leaks, from the radiator, or the radiator cap, however my reseviour bottle was shaking, my coolent system is pressurized, and i dont know how, so i took the cap off, and i just let it blow the air out, it finally ended up stopping..
The Temp was running alittle bit colder then before, and the fan was kicking on at the right time, the car never reached above 180degrees, and the needle or the car never got into a dangerous range, it seems the car is cooling perfectly now, however i dont know why the system had Air bubbles in it, could anyone englighten me on this because i'm letting the car cool down now, and i'm goin to try and go drive it again after i let it sit, it seems that after i let the air just release itself it didn't do it anymore, i let it idle about 15 mins after i let all the air just release itself..i never saw anymore bubbles, just the suckhen of the water back into the radiator. drove it up and down the street, hit Vtec again and its still doing it, this time not as bad..but its still there.. i even went back to my old radiator cap..

called one of my other buddies he decribed the same problem i was having, told me it was my radiator cap, i didn't even have to say a word he told me word for word what was happening, said my radiator cap wasn't holding the pressure, I have two, both are 16lbs, and one is from advance autoparts the other is from autozone..does anyone know the oem specs on the lbs for the radiator cap?

..also was said that i should wait till its cold, open the cap and squeeze the upper radiator hose to get the air out..
Car doesn't smoke, Fan comes on when its suppose too, no leaks,
THIS ISNT A HG PROBLEM..if my hg was leaking my **** would be milky white..

 

FYI compression test is 265 across the board.

 

bump

 

From your description of what you did, sounds like you didn't bleed the system after refilling with coolant. To bleed the system, use the bleeder screw if there is one, or keep the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it idle until the thermostat opens and the coolant level drops, then top off with coolant, replace cap. Fill the resevoir to max line. The system still might draw alittle coolant from the resevoir. Test drive and see what happens, making sure the fan does come on.

Also, 16 lb cap should be fine.

Fan working properly?

You can have your cooling system pressure tested which will reveal if you are loosing pressure, ie a leak somewhere. I had a tiny pinhole leak in one of the hoses under the IM, it slowly bled coolant off till the level was low enough to overheat. I finally found the leak and replaced all the hoses under the IM. Now cooling system works perfect again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From your description of what you did, sounds like you didn't bleed the system after refilling with coolant. To bleed the system, use the bleeder screw if there is one, or keep the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it idle until the thermostat opens and the coolant level drops, then top off with coolant, replace cap. Fill the resevoir to max line. The system still might draw alittle coolant from the resevoir. Test drive and see what happens, making sure the fan does come on.

Also, 16 lb cap should be fine.

Fan working properly?

You can have your cooling system pressure tested which will reveal if you are loosing pressure, ie a leak somewhere. I had a tiny pinhole leak in one of the hoses under the IM, it slowly bled coolant off till the level was low enough to overheat. I finally found the leak and replaced all the hoses under the IM. Now cooling system works perfect again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, i never bleeded the system, i was also told to start/run the car without the cap and squeeze the upper hose, is there a bleed valve around the thermo, i was told there was, this is the ACTUALLY first time i've done this..i've never had a reason to change the cap, or themo, i just thought it was time..myself..

 

So, i bleeded the system as i drainned the radiator once again, and filled it back up, and everything seemed fine, i went down the street for a drive, and i its back..still only boiling from the overflow tank..
I then proceeded while the car was still running to open the bleed valve, nothing but hot air / steam just came out..I have a mixture of water / antifreeze in here, so i dont know if its the water evaperating thats doing this..i do know i've even taken off all the hoses, drainned the motor completely, and resnugged everything and filled it back up, bleed the system and it still doing this, car seems to actually run colder, could my themostat not be opening up?? Fan comes on right when its suppose too..Got on it alittle bit after all this, hit vtec, to redline and the temp started to rise..then it went back down..i'm stumped.

 

I went back outside, after doing some reading research on Whether or not this is a cap or radiator problem and i'm still stumped...lol..
After reading about HG leaks, it said, that the spark plugs were very clean and the bubbles were basically compressed gasses and air escaping..Well, needless to say this car is fully tuned, and has also burn the plug right, 14.7 AFR at idle and its steady my plugs have always been clean, my CR tester broke so i borrowed a buddies, his guage either reads low or is off but my Testing came out 250-235-250-250 from left to right..only low one was cyl 3 but its plug looks like the rest of em..i even have pics to show you guys so hold on. Also..the bubbles dont HAPPEN right away..they happen ONLY after being driven or driven hard..at idle it doesn't do it.

 

i guess its a hg..