okay, here's the gig. i picked up a 92 accord lx, 4 door, auto for next to nothing. it had a snapped tbelt and it'd been sitting for about a year and a half. i got it home, replaced the tbelts, wp, a bunch of gaskets, yada yada.

i go to start it...nothing. no fuel, no spark...nothing. it cranks all day long...but it won't fire.

what i have established:

-timing is dead on...this i know.
-all the grounds are good, everything is hooked up right.
-the pump is dead...so that explains no fuel (i already hate accords just by going off the fact that you have to drop the tank to replace a pump )

however, i still don't have any spark. i was in the process of testing the coil, but my multimeter took a ****, so i'm not sure if it or the distributor is bad....i guess i'll find that out once i get another working multimeter.

here's what really stumps me though....no check engine light...at all. it doesn't come on when i turn the key on and nothing happens when i jump the diag port. i replaced the bulb (reason # 2 why i hate accords....had to pull half the friggin dash out to get to the cluster....then i had to tear the cluster down just to get to the bulb!)

i would say a bad ecu, but even then, it should throw a sold cel....but i have nothing.

any thoughts? anyway to check a bad ecu? any way to triple check to confirm that the pump is bad before i go dropping the tank?

any help would be appreciated!
thanks

 

I'd suggest that you check for power thru the ignition switch from the battery BEFORE you start throwing $100 parts at it.
This link will help you check if the ignition switch is okay.
http://techauto.te.funpic.org/ignitionswitch.php
A bad main relay can also cause problems getting fuel pump power and spark.
A correct and accurate diagnose can save you a lot of cash.
A bad or missing ground at the T-stat housing can cause the ECU to malfunction.

 

cool, i'll look into those.

i forgot to mention. when you turn the key on, the shifter (i'm assuming the shift lock) clicks maybe 3 times, really fast (about 3 clicks in one second).

 

anybody else got any ideas?

another thing it does is when you crank it, the "d" light on the cluster flashes...??

 

Check main relay and/or distributor.

[I feel like I recommend checking those on a no start 2-3 times a week, haha]

 

okay, i'll look into those 2. any way to check the relay?

 

Ok im not jason but im his friend justin im a toyota technician and most hondas are interferrance engines. this means when a timing belt jumps time all open valves get beat up by the pistons as they come up and down. If its an inline four more than likely it is an interferrance engine. If this has happened its best just to get a remanned head or motor.

 

cpr tested the other night just to double check before i get it firing...perfect compression in all 4.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonzey94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok im not jason but im his friend justin im a toyota technician and most hondas are interferrance engines. this means when a timing belt jumps time all open valves get beat up by the pistons as they come up and down. If its an inline four more than likely it is an interferrance engine. If this has happened its best just to get a remanned head or motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what you are saying it has nothing to do with his problem.........bent valves or not car should still get spark and fuel...
like it was suggested i would look at ign switch, main relay ,,,,

any power at fuel pump ??
have you removed the distr cap and chk inside ??
what have you checked??

and as adviced ,,,do not just replace parts before you diagnose

 

does the sender/pump share the same plug? i tested power at the 2 pin at the top of the sender...had power there. but would that be just for the gas gauge?

haven't openned the distributor yet...kinda gave up on it a few days ago. i tried to see if the coil was bad first....my multimeter crapped out on me though. i tested the power in pins 5/7 on the harness for the main relay...but that wouldn't necessarily mean the relay is good. it'd just mean power makes it to that point.