EF bseries. Searched!
with a ctr crank pulley,
1. do you still have to bash the driver side shock tower in still?
if i do where is it? hasport website has only "X"es for pictures.
also
2. where does the rear cross member needed to be dent in also??
Thanks
1. do you still have to bash the driver side shock tower in still?
if i do where is it? hasport website has only "X"es for pictures.
also
2. where does the rear cross member needed to be dent in also??
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by traction issuez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with a ctr crank pulley,
1. do you still have to bash the driver side shock tower in still?
if i do where is it? hasport website has only "X"es for pictures.
also
2. where does the rear cross member needed to be dent in also??
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
The CTR pulley has no affect on the fitment. The alternator pulley is why you bash in the shock tower wall.
Which mounts are you using? If you mount the rear mount on the rear subframe, it should be the little bit just in front of the mount.
1. do you still have to bash the driver side shock tower in still?
if i do where is it? hasport website has only "X"es for pictures.
also
2. where does the rear cross member needed to be dent in also??
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
The CTR pulley has no affect on the fitment. The alternator pulley is why you bash in the shock tower wall.
Which mounts are you using? If you mount the rear mount on the rear subframe, it should be the little bit just in front of the mount.
I got a 91 civic w/ a 97 GSR and I cut a small section out on the rear sub frame also. DONT cut into the sub frame just cut the lip out and cut it about 6" wide also. For the record I'm using the e-bay yonaka mounts. As for the alternator clearance just lower the motor in and mark the ball park area. You'll mos def need a maul not a hammer cause it'll eat your lunch using a normal hammer.
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