Help me decide which brakes to buy
hey guy i have an 89 CRX Si with rear drum brakes, I want to upgrade to rear disks (yes, i know its pointless but i am tired of seeing drums through my rear wheels). I was wondering how much it has cost you guys to upgrade.
1. I looked at http://www.car-part.com/ and found that i can buy rear trailing arms for $50 a piece but then if you add in the price of new calipers, rotors, pads, and stainless lines it seems like the price can get quite expensive. How much did it cost those of you who put together your own rear disk kit.
=$?
2.There is also a kit on fast brakes for $550 that comes with everything for a Wilwood rear disk conversion, i am wondering if that makes more sense to buy because by the time i finish purchasing all the parts for an at home kit, i could almost get a Wilwood, here is a link to the kit that i am talking about. http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=571
=$500
3. Then again it is completely stupid to have 2 piston Wilwood 11" rear disk with factory front disk so if you guys recommend going with a fast brakes kit i will probably end up going with this kit http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=337 it is 1,250 but upgrades both front and rear brakes
=$1,250
4. or for $125 more i can get this kit which upgrades the calipers to 4 piston
http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=485
=$1,375
5. or for $75 more i get a complete Wilwood kit
http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=499
=$1,450
All of these kits require a 15/16" m/c and a proportioning valve
I am really leaning towards the $1,450 kit, but the cheap *** in me does not know if i should be spending this much money on my brakes, i defiantly want rear disks, but i need better braking power as well, its hard to stop a turbo b16 REX . So what i am really looking for are your opinions, as always thanks for all your help guys.
-Roman
1. I looked at http://www.car-part.com/ and found that i can buy rear trailing arms for $50 a piece but then if you add in the price of new calipers, rotors, pads, and stainless lines it seems like the price can get quite expensive. How much did it cost those of you who put together your own rear disk kit.
=$?
2.There is also a kit on fast brakes for $550 that comes with everything for a Wilwood rear disk conversion, i am wondering if that makes more sense to buy because by the time i finish purchasing all the parts for an at home kit, i could almost get a Wilwood, here is a link to the kit that i am talking about. http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=571
=$500
3. Then again it is completely stupid to have 2 piston Wilwood 11" rear disk with factory front disk so if you guys recommend going with a fast brakes kit i will probably end up going with this kit http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=337 it is 1,250 but upgrades both front and rear brakes
=$1,250
4. or for $125 more i can get this kit which upgrades the calipers to 4 piston
http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=485
=$1,375
5. or for $75 more i get a complete Wilwood kit
http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=499
=$1,450
All of these kits require a 15/16" m/c and a proportioning valve
I am really leaning towards the $1,450 kit, but the cheap *** in me does not know if i should be spending this much money on my brakes, i defiantly want rear disks, but i need better braking power as well, its hard to stop a turbo b16 REX . So what i am really looking for are your opinions, as always thanks for all your help guys.
-Roman
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get some Integra trailing arms from the junk yard, your looking at $150 instead of $500</TD></TR></TABLE>
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teler86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depending on if they are rusted or how long the car has been sitting. I went the same route and got the rear discs from a donor car and I have not had any problems with it.
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depending on if they are rusted or how long the car has been sitting. I went the same route and got the rear discs from a donor car and I have not had any problems with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Depending on if they are rusted or how long the car has been sitting. I went the same route and got the rear discs from a donor car and I have not had any problems with it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
its the mid-west everything is always rusty
Depending on if they are rusted or how long the car has been sitting. I went the same route and got the rear discs from a donor car and I have not had any problems with it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>its the mid-west everything is always rusty
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teler86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got mine off ebay froma 94 integra.. along with the master cylinder and booster and proportioning valve.. i needed one new caliper, was able to turn the rotors, and got new oem pads from the auto prts store.. also needed the lines to the caliper. all total i think it cost me like $390.00
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got mine off ebay froma 94 integra.. along with the master cylinder and booster and proportioning valve.. i needed one new caliper, was able to turn the rotors, and got new oem pads from the auto prts store.. also needed the lines to the caliper. all total i think it cost me like $390.00
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i got mine off ebay froma 94 integra.. along with the master cylinder and booster and proportioning valve.. i needed one new caliper, was able to turn the rotors, and got new oem pads from the auto prts store.. also needed the lines to the caliper. all total i think it cost me like $390.00</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is cheaper than the Wilwood package, but then for only $110 more you get 4 piston calipers, that also weigh less, and not to mention everything is new
i got mine off ebay froma 94 integra.. along with the master cylinder and booster and proportioning valve.. i needed one new caliper, was able to turn the rotors, and got new oem pads from the auto prts store.. also needed the lines to the caliper. all total i think it cost me like $390.00</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is cheaper than the Wilwood package, but then for only $110 more you get 4 piston calipers, that also weigh less, and not to mention everything is new
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if you're willing to blow cash then save it for the fronts. i'd also recommend complete teg rear trailing arms + stainless lines, maybe some blingin rotors if that's your thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teler86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just get the rotors turned, $20 for both
rebuild seals for the caliper are like $30 for both
pads are like $15
how is does that still add up to $500?
I wouldn't worry to much about the rear it doesn't do too much of the stopping, get some good front brakes
if i do that will i not need new pads, rotors, and probably calipers,
plus i want to do stainless lines at the same time. If calipers are at a junkyard, chances are that they are frozen right??, correct me if I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just get the rotors turned, $20 for both
rebuild seals for the caliper are like $30 for both
pads are like $15
how is does that still add up to $500?
I wouldn't worry to much about the rear it doesn't do too much of the stopping, get some good front brakes
I called fast brakes today and they said the Wilwood kit is overkill for anything else than a "race car," so i am going to put on rear disks off an 90-91 CRX si, or something similar and do stainless lines on the rear and then upgrade the fronts later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much harder is it to stop a turbob16 rex then any other rex lol, urs must weigh a lot more eh</TD></TR></TABLE>Momentum is a bitch
Here is a complete list of potential OEM Brake Upgrades, I recommend that anyone looking at a brake upgrade take a look at this.
https://honda-tech.com/zeropost...11824
Here is a complete list of potential OEM Brake Upgrades, I recommend that anyone looking at a brake upgrade take a look at this.
https://honda-tech.com/zeropost...11824
before you spend the money on brake upgrades, think about if your upgrade is necessary or not. if you are more of an aesthetic person, then that is fine. however, brake upgrades on an ef are not strictly necessary from a performance standpoint. a really good set of pads, hawk hps, project u, etc, might be the best money you can spend on brakes if your car goes less than 150 mph. you know what kind of brake system you need better than i do, so get what you need. but 11 inch big brake kits sound a bit excessive on a car that weighs in under 2200lbs and has less than 200 hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">n a car that weighs in under 2200lbs and has less than 200 hp. </TD></TR></TABLE>
little more than 200hp
little more than 200hp
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NikoZai
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Sep 1, 2002 08:17 PM



