Engine light...
i just got my exhaust today and whaen i took off my stock one all the way to the cat i started my engine just to see how loud it is without any real mufflers. now i have a check engine light. i put the new exhaust on and its still there. anyone know how to get rid of it or do i have to go to honda for this?
Any help would be great....happy thankgiving!!
Any help would be great....happy thankgiving!!
did you try disconnecting the neg cable on the battery and pulling the back up fuse out? It should work if it doesn't then you have to connect it to a scan tool to erase it.
Why do ****** noobs always suggest pulling the battery cable? Do you not realize the ECU is internally backed up? GTFO... like NOW!!!
k20EP3, you need to have an OBDII scanner put on the car, and pull the code the ECU is throwing to find out what it sees wrong... and just go from there.
If there is nothing ACTUALLY wrong, it will go away with a couple engine cycles... (warm up, cool down = 1 cycle)
k20EP3, you need to have an OBDII scanner put on the car, and pull the code the ECU is throwing to find out what it sees wrong... and just go from there.
If there is nothing ACTUALLY wrong, it will go away with a couple engine cycles... (warm up, cool down = 1 cycle)
Acctually my friends rx7 resets his ecu by disconecting the - battery then turning the key on the on position and holding your foot on the brake for 30 secs. we had to do that to reset it when we did a single turbo swap on it. the car would idle fine but as soon as you hit the gas the engine would just die, after we reset it by how i described it the car ran fine. im not saying all cars are the same but it might work on some. but thanks for the advice
RX7 = OBD1xx
EP3 = OBD2
2 totally different computers, old vs. new, and NO OBD2 CAR that I have worked on has ever reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery.
OBD1's do that, don't get me wrong... but yours won't.
EP3 = OBD2
2 totally different computers, old vs. new, and NO OBD2 CAR that I have worked on has ever reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery.
OBD1's do that, don't get me wrong... but yours won't.
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Yeah you should be able to disconnect trhe negative battery cable and it should work, or you can try disconnecting both cables and touching them together that will defenity clear it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanplayjoint »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah you should be able to disconnect trhe negative battery cable and it should work, or you can try disconnecting both cables and touching them together that will defenity clear it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just tried to do that, it goes away when i start the car but it comes right back on as soon as i touch the gas pedal. but thanks for the advice i really appreciate it.
I just tried to do that, it goes away when i start the car but it comes right back on as soon as i touch the gas pedal. but thanks for the advice i really appreciate it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20EP3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Acctually my friends rx7 resets his ecu by disconecting the - battery then turning the key on the on position and holding your foot on the brake for 30 secs. we had to do that to reset it when we did a single turbo swap on it. the car would idle fine but as soon as you hit the gas the engine would just die, after we reset it by how i described it the car ran fine. im not saying all cars are the same but it might work on some. but thanks for the advice
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true, it discharges the whole battery after dcing it
</TD></TR></TABLE>this is true, it discharges the whole battery after dcing it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20EP3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone else have any ideas or experiences????</TD></TR></TABLE>
I told you how to take care of the problem... but you keep on insisting on trying BS remedies to fix the symptom, and not the problem...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k20EP3, you need to have an OBDII scanner put on the car, and pull the code the ECU is throwing to find out what it sees wrong... and just go from there.
If there is nothing ACTUALLY wrong, it will go away with a couple engine cycles... (warm up, cool down = 1 cycle)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I told you how to take care of the problem... but you keep on insisting on trying BS remedies to fix the symptom, and not the problem...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k20EP3, you need to have an OBDII scanner put on the car, and pull the code the ECU is throwing to find out what it sees wrong... and just go from there.
If there is nothing ACTUALLY wrong, it will go away with a couple engine cycles... (warm up, cool down = 1 cycle)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude i f**king hate Honda!! i don't want to take my car to them, their a bunch of retards over there thats why i want to find out if there is any other way to do this.
Who said to take it to Honda? You can get an ECU code scan ANYWHERE.
If you are that worried about someone screwing you over, go buy an OBD2 scanner for your own personal use.
AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's, Checkers all have, and more than likely have services, parts to use and purchase for things like this.
The ECU is trying to tell you something... find out what it is, reset the ECU the RIGHT way, and if it comes back, you have a problem. If not, you are set.
If you are that worried about someone screwing you over, go buy an OBD2 scanner for your own personal use.
AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's, Checkers all have, and more than likely have services, parts to use and purchase for things like this.
The ECU is trying to tell you something... find out what it is, reset the ECU the RIGHT way, and if it comes back, you have a problem. If not, you are set.
cool ill proabably do that, i dont really care about it that much but it kinda bugs me when i see it while driving. ill take care of it tomorrow
if u disconnected the batt to reset the light and it just comes back on then u my friend hav a problem.......btw u can just pull in the ecu fuse from the fuse box under the hood for like 10 seconds and itll reset the ecu.
Live data streamin on scanners
finding the code is the easy part u can actually use a paper clip to read codes the problem is finding out what is causing the code.
Live data streamin on scanners
finding the code is the easy part u can actually use a paper clip to read codes the problem is finding out what is causing the code.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red CiViC Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u disconnected the batt to reset the light and it just comes back on then u my friend hav a problem.......btw u can just pull in the ecu fuse from the fuse box under the hood for like 10 seconds and itll reset the ecu.
Live data streamin on scanners
finding the code is the easy part u can actually use a paper clip to read codes the problem is finding out what is causing the code.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
To your disbelief, none of that will work on an OBD2 car.
The ECU on the K series is internally backed up.
And the paperclip will not work either, because you OBD1 guys deal with 1 and 2 digit codes... OBD2 uses 5 digit codes...
You have to put a computer on the ECU and pull the codes from it, and that is the only way you can clear them as well.
Live data streamin on scanners
finding the code is the easy part u can actually use a paper clip to read codes the problem is finding out what is causing the code.
</TD></TR></TABLE>To your disbelief, none of that will work on an OBD2 car.
The ECU on the K series is internally backed up.
And the paperclip will not work either, because you OBD1 guys deal with 1 and 2 digit codes... OBD2 uses 5 digit codes...
You have to put a computer on the ECU and pull the codes from it, and that is the only way you can clear them as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eezeekial »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much of your exhaust did you take off? did you put put the o2 sensors back in their perspective places and not switch them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It was a Cat back HKS exhaust i never touched the cat or any of the 02 sensors. the pipe was disconected right after the cat at the 3 bolt flange all the way to the muffler.
It was a Cat back HKS exhaust i never touched the cat or any of the 02 sensors. the pipe was disconected right after the cat at the 3 bolt flange all the way to the muffler.
If you go to Autozone they can read your code for free i belive. You can also go to a Honda or Acura dealership but they might charge you an Hours worth of work.
If you find the code you can use this link http://www.7thgencivic.com/for...codes and it will give you the code and the problem
If you find the code you can use this link http://www.7thgencivic.com/for...codes and it will give you the code and the problem
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