New clutch / flywheel install problem. PLEASE HELP !!!!
Hi everyone,
Just had a new clutch kit (OEM by Daikin) and a XACT Streetlite flywheel installed by AAMCO. Well, when I went there to pick up the car I couldn't shift at all. I'd depress the clutch all the way down and the car wouldn't go in any gear. I called their tech and he found that by letting go of the clutch a little bit it will shift fine. He tried to explain that I might need a transmission fluid additive to get the synchros to work better (I used OEM Honda MTF), but I don't think that there is anything wrong with my transmission at all. He said that it could be because he just replaced the fluid and that I should drive it a little bit to see if the problem resolves itself. Since I needed my car I had to pick it up. I tested it in an empty parking lot and it looks like when the pedal is fully depressed it engages a little bit, not enough to stall the car, but enough for the synchros to prevent me from shifting. The car does move very little when I fully depress the pedal to the floor. He earlier mentioned that this is a hydraulic clutch and there are no adjustments available for those.
So, what do you people think: Is that an install gone wrong or there is something that needs to be adjusted? He seemed clueless, and I wanted to give him something to work with when I bring the car back to him. I know I don’t have to do that, but if I go there and just bitch about it is not going to help much.
Thank you in advance,
Nick
PS: car is 01 GSR, 83k, there where never any problems with the tranny prior to that event.
Modified by nsimov at 1:59 AM 11/23/2006
Just had a new clutch kit (OEM by Daikin) and a XACT Streetlite flywheel installed by AAMCO. Well, when I went there to pick up the car I couldn't shift at all. I'd depress the clutch all the way down and the car wouldn't go in any gear. I called their tech and he found that by letting go of the clutch a little bit it will shift fine. He tried to explain that I might need a transmission fluid additive to get the synchros to work better (I used OEM Honda MTF), but I don't think that there is anything wrong with my transmission at all. He said that it could be because he just replaced the fluid and that I should drive it a little bit to see if the problem resolves itself. Since I needed my car I had to pick it up. I tested it in an empty parking lot and it looks like when the pedal is fully depressed it engages a little bit, not enough to stall the car, but enough for the synchros to prevent me from shifting. The car does move very little when I fully depress the pedal to the floor. He earlier mentioned that this is a hydraulic clutch and there are no adjustments available for those.
So, what do you people think: Is that an install gone wrong or there is something that needs to be adjusted? He seemed clueless, and I wanted to give him something to work with when I bring the car back to him. I know I don’t have to do that, but if I go there and just bitch about it is not going to help much.
Thank you in advance,
Nick
PS: car is 01 GSR, 83k, there where never any problems with the tranny prior to that event.
Modified by nsimov at 1:59 AM 11/23/2006
Take it back and ask why they didn't test drive the vehicle before giving it to you. Then have them test drive it. Don't be overly aggressive when you talk to them, give them a chance to make it right. Either the clutch install went wrong or your clutch slave or MC went out by amazing coincidence. I hope you paid with a credit card.
They did test drive it, the guy said that it drove fine fine (from the garage to the parking lot 20 feet away). He said that he did not have to bleed the lines. Slave cilinder was replaced by the Stealership approx. 1 year ago. Since then I've had the car inspected twice for possible clutch issue, but both times the dealer said that if it is the clutch, they will charge me since the extended warranty does not cover clutch asembly. Also, yes, I did pay with credit card. I'm not going to be agresive, but the AAMCO person made sure to let me know numerous times that since I'm suplying the parts they cannot offer any warranty.
The problem that caused me to have the clutch and the flywheel replaced in the first place was that once in a while the clutch will engage very low (I'd barely let go of the pedal). 97% of the times it worked fine, but it drove me nuts and I decided to go ahead and have it replaced so I can rule out clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/bearing for that problem. I got the old clutch and it looks like it has 40% life left in it.
Thanks to everyone for helping and have a happy turkey day.
Nick
The problem that caused me to have the clutch and the flywheel replaced in the first place was that once in a while the clutch will engage very low (I'd barely let go of the pedal). 97% of the times it worked fine, but it drove me nuts and I decided to go ahead and have it replaced so I can rule out clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/bearing for that problem. I got the old clutch and it looks like it has 40% life left in it.
Thanks to everyone for helping and have a happy turkey day.
Nick
Trending Topics
Check the release mechanism. Check for streched cables, worn linkages or failed clutch hydraulics. On hydraulic operated clutch release mechanisms, check for air in the hydraulic system and bleed as necessary.
Check for broken, craked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot.
Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing.
Check for a defective clutch disc.
I think you have a release bearing problem or there is air in the hydraulic lines, have them bleed the clutch hydraulic lines and go from there.
Modified by mlb4046 at 1:47 AM 11/23/2006
Modified by mlb4046 at 2:13 AM 11/23/2006
Modified by mlb4046 at 2:17 AM 11/23/2006
Check for broken, craked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot.
Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing.
Check for a defective clutch disc.
I think you have a release bearing problem or there is air in the hydraulic lines, have them bleed the clutch hydraulic lines and go from there.
Modified by mlb4046 at 1:47 AM 11/23/2006
Modified by mlb4046 at 2:13 AM 11/23/2006
Modified by mlb4046 at 2:17 AM 11/23/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsimov »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi everyone,
He earlier mentioned that this is a hydraulic clutch and there are no adjustments available for those.
Modified by nsimov at 1:59 AM 11/23/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
that statement right there leads me to believe the people you took it to, dont know honda's very well, there is plently of adjustment you can do at the pedal where it connects the master cylinder of ur clutchline. You can adjust the point at which ur clutch engages.. and it sounds like you might need to adjust that slightly.
He earlier mentioned that this is a hydraulic clutch and there are no adjustments available for those.
Modified by nsimov at 1:59 AM 11/23/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
that statement right there leads me to believe the people you took it to, dont know honda's very well, there is plently of adjustment you can do at the pedal where it connects the master cylinder of ur clutchline. You can adjust the point at which ur clutch engages.. and it sounds like you might need to adjust that slightly.
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