window grease?
my window is rolling up kinda rough, so what kind of grease or window lubricant, do i use to lube up the track to make it roll a bit smoother? i can't remember where i read it, but someone said that honda make some kind of grease for the window?
its like a silicon spray works wonders for the windows i can vouch for that
dont use wd40 cause you will need to reapply every now and then while the silicon will last longer
dont use wd40 cause you will need to reapply every now and then while the silicon will last longer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuShiBoiiii »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its like a silicon spray works wonders for the windows i can vouch for that
dont use wd40 cause you will need to reapply every now and then while the silicon will last longer
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the thing about silicone spray is that they do NOT last long, trust me on this on, i done so many honda repair for honda
honda have a version of a high temperture greast that you could buy, make sure the grease is the right kind, cheap axle grease will dry and caked up the tooth of the track, making it slow and sometime stuck.
dont use wd40 cause you will need to reapply every now and then while the silicon will last longer
</TD></TR></TABLE>the thing about silicone spray is that they do NOT last long, trust me on this on, i done so many honda repair for honda
honda have a version of a high temperture greast that you could buy, make sure the grease is the right kind, cheap axle grease will dry and caked up the tooth of the track, making it slow and sometime stuck.
Stop by the dealer and pick up a tube of Shin Etzu grease. It's something like $14 for a 100 gram tube (about the size of a tube of toothpaste).
Then, using q-tips, clean out the channels as best you can. Then just lube them down with the grease, using q-tips again.
Then, using q-tips, clean out the channels as best you can. Then just lube them down with the grease, using q-tips again.
One more thing - it would probably be best to actually use wet or maybe even slightly soapy q-tips when cleaning the channels, then let them dry of course.
Tonight I can post the part number in case the parts guy isn't sure what it is. "Shin Etzu" is actually the name of the Japanese chemical company that makes this industrial strength silicone grease, but just ask for Shin Etzu grease and they will (or should) know what you are talking about.
Tonight I can post the part number in case the parts guy isn't sure what it is. "Shin Etzu" is actually the name of the Japanese chemical company that makes this industrial strength silicone grease, but just ask for Shin Etzu grease and they will (or should) know what you are talking about.
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I use the shin etzu a lot- it is mainly for suspensiom work (says so on the tube), I don't know about on metal parts (used mainly for buhing/metal or bushing/bushing). It is a very good compound.
When I had my doors apart (speaker install) I checked the grease inside- looks like white lithium grease. In my Helms manual I note Honda usually recommends white lithium for metal/metal (EXCEPT for wet locations like under the car or high-temp situations).
Check a GOOD factory manual (Helms) that shows all OEM lubricants and where they were used. My guess is they will recommend white lithium. And if you want to REALLY tune up the windows when the panel is off-
Clean the hell out of the metal parts. If no paint around, first clean with a towel, then spray some brake-cleaner onto a clean shop towel and remove all the rest. Get all the tracks CLEAN. The apply the white lithium (or what Honda/Helms recommends) DO NOT get ANY brake-cleaner on any surface but raw metal, especially painted metals, vinyl or other surfaces (this is why you DO NOT just spray inside the door- spray onto a shop towel first, away for tne car!!)
Clean the felt or rubber gasket at the door (the one at the bottom of the window frame) with some hot soapy water. Its kind of hard with the window in the way, but it can be done. After, spray some silicone spray onto a small piece of cloth and lube the seal. If its an old rubber/felt seal (going a ways back), make sure to really get the seal soaked. Wait a while, then roll the window up/down several times, and use a clean towel to clean the silicone film off the window the seal will leave when it goes up/down. This will stop completely after a few car washes, but a very small film will have lubed the seal.
Next (this can be done w/o removing the panel), clean all the gaskets around the entire door frame with hot, soapy water. Then spray silicon spray onto a piece of shop-towel and lube all the door seals. For 2-3 passes, the rag will still remove some residue, but be patient. The old seal will actually absorb some of the spray. This should be done REGULARLY for all the door-seals on any car over 5 years of age. It will help the seals stay pliable so they will seal better. (Mine are 12 years old, still seal very well and are still pliable. I do this about every 3rd car wash) DO NOY use Armor-All or anything else on these seals!! It is NOT designed for this type rubber!!
To finish, use a shop-towel to clean all the old gunk (grease) off the door-hinges and slide-brackets. If careful, you can then use a small piece of towel with brake-cleaner sprayed onto it to finish removeing everything off the slide-brackets. (DO NOT spray into the door area! DO NOT get onto the paint!) Then apply a medium film of white lithium between the hinge mating surfaces and onto the door slide-brackets. Swing the door open/closed several times to help spread the grease evenly over the slide-bracket, and carefully wipe off any excess.
If you clean/lube the door seals they will last a long, long time. If you clean/lube the hinges/slide brackets the doors will open/close smoothly for many, many years. I do the hinges about 2X a year, and the seals about every 3rd car wash. The seals take a few minutes, but tearing out and replacing the door seals is expensive and is a real pain in the butt.
If you are stupid, and after reading my warnings spray brake-cleaner onto paint, vinyl, or ny door finish and ruin it, don't whine- you ruined it! This is stated here againas a warning- this is a great general cleaner for any metal part, but has to be used with caution! Wrenchy
When I had my doors apart (speaker install) I checked the grease inside- looks like white lithium grease. In my Helms manual I note Honda usually recommends white lithium for metal/metal (EXCEPT for wet locations like under the car or high-temp situations).
Check a GOOD factory manual (Helms) that shows all OEM lubricants and where they were used. My guess is they will recommend white lithium. And if you want to REALLY tune up the windows when the panel is off-
Clean the hell out of the metal parts. If no paint around, first clean with a towel, then spray some brake-cleaner onto a clean shop towel and remove all the rest. Get all the tracks CLEAN. The apply the white lithium (or what Honda/Helms recommends) DO NOT get ANY brake-cleaner on any surface but raw metal, especially painted metals, vinyl or other surfaces (this is why you DO NOT just spray inside the door- spray onto a shop towel first, away for tne car!!)
Clean the felt or rubber gasket at the door (the one at the bottom of the window frame) with some hot soapy water. Its kind of hard with the window in the way, but it can be done. After, spray some silicone spray onto a small piece of cloth and lube the seal. If its an old rubber/felt seal (going a ways back), make sure to really get the seal soaked. Wait a while, then roll the window up/down several times, and use a clean towel to clean the silicone film off the window the seal will leave when it goes up/down. This will stop completely after a few car washes, but a very small film will have lubed the seal.
Next (this can be done w/o removing the panel), clean all the gaskets around the entire door frame with hot, soapy water. Then spray silicon spray onto a piece of shop-towel and lube all the door seals. For 2-3 passes, the rag will still remove some residue, but be patient. The old seal will actually absorb some of the spray. This should be done REGULARLY for all the door-seals on any car over 5 years of age. It will help the seals stay pliable so they will seal better. (Mine are 12 years old, still seal very well and are still pliable. I do this about every 3rd car wash) DO NOY use Armor-All or anything else on these seals!! It is NOT designed for this type rubber!!
To finish, use a shop-towel to clean all the old gunk (grease) off the door-hinges and slide-brackets. If careful, you can then use a small piece of towel with brake-cleaner sprayed onto it to finish removeing everything off the slide-brackets. (DO NOT spray into the door area! DO NOT get onto the paint!) Then apply a medium film of white lithium between the hinge mating surfaces and onto the door slide-brackets. Swing the door open/closed several times to help spread the grease evenly over the slide-bracket, and carefully wipe off any excess.
If you clean/lube the door seals they will last a long, long time. If you clean/lube the hinges/slide brackets the doors will open/close smoothly for many, many years. I do the hinges about 2X a year, and the seals about every 3rd car wash. The seals take a few minutes, but tearing out and replacing the door seals is expensive and is a real pain in the butt.
If you are stupid, and after reading my warnings spray brake-cleaner onto paint, vinyl, or ny door finish and ruin it, don't whine- you ruined it! This is stated here againas a warning- this is a great general cleaner for any metal part, but has to be used with caution! Wrenchy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the thing about silicone spray is that they do NOT last long, trust me on this on, i done so many honda repair for honda
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well what do you consider a long time?? I use silicone and its seems to last aronud 5 years or so. thats pretty decent and its so simple to apply.
the thing about silicone spray is that they do NOT last long, trust me on this on, i done so many honda repair for honda
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well what do you consider a long time?? I use silicone and its seems to last aronud 5 years or so. thats pretty decent and its so simple to apply.
HUH??? silicone spray lasts like not even a week.
btw is this where you guys are talking about greasing or actualy inside the door? my front windows vibrate and chatter like crazy when they get wet
btw is this where you guys are talking about greasing or actualy inside the door? my front windows vibrate and chatter like crazy when they get wet
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use white lithium grease... and for sunroofs i usually just get some regular bearing grease.. works good</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seems like that would work really well. We use lithium grease on a lot of things at work never a problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gosu08 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know where i can find the window silicone spray?</TD></TR></TABLE>
any hardware store will sell it.
Seems like that would work really well. We use lithium grease on a lot of things at work never a problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gosu08 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know where i can find the window silicone spray?</TD></TR></TABLE>
any hardware store will sell it.
I'll bet the windows rattle for one of two reasons-
The gasket at the bottom of the window-frame is shot (the one visible outside the car at the bottom of the window/keeps the bottom from rattling as well as sealing) and/or the seals around the glass are shot (no longer pliable). Try cleaning these seals, and apply silicone spray as per above. You may get lucky- the silicone may make the seals more pliable and help with the rattling. Eventually, they all have to be replaced.
Check in a shop manual how your glass is held to the "roll-up" frame inside the door. Various mounts/clips are used to hold the bottom of the glass. As they get very old, some of the clips may have cracked. Sometimes a full-length U-shaped bracket is used that holds the bottom, and it may be cracked. Don't know more-Honda, as well as other makers, changes how the glass is mountesd at the bottom. I cna't even remember how the glass in my doors is held at the bottom-been a long time since I had to panels off to do the speakers. Wrenchy
The gasket at the bottom of the window-frame is shot (the one visible outside the car at the bottom of the window/keeps the bottom from rattling as well as sealing) and/or the seals around the glass are shot (no longer pliable). Try cleaning these seals, and apply silicone spray as per above. You may get lucky- the silicone may make the seals more pliable and help with the rattling. Eventually, they all have to be replaced.
Check in a shop manual how your glass is held to the "roll-up" frame inside the door. Various mounts/clips are used to hold the bottom of the glass. As they get very old, some of the clips may have cracked. Sometimes a full-length U-shaped bracket is used that holds the bottom, and it may be cracked. Don't know more-Honda, as well as other makers, changes how the glass is mountesd at the bottom. I cna't even remember how the glass in my doors is held at the bottom-been a long time since I had to panels off to do the speakers. Wrenchy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well what do you consider a long time?? I use silicone and its seems to last aronud 5 years or so. thats pretty decent and its so simple to apply.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i really don't want to call anyone dipshit but yeah..dipshit.
if it lasted you 5 year then good for you, but I am just trying to help the rest of the pack that doesn't live in sunny california. there's people never regrease the track or change their motor oil for 100k, and their car is still working fine. so what's am i trying to say? the right stuff will most likely last longer than silicone spray.
if you are busting open them anyway, why not spend the extra just to know you used the right stuff?
Well what do you consider a long time?? I use silicone and its seems to last aronud 5 years or so. thats pretty decent and its so simple to apply.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i really don't want to call anyone dipshit but yeah..dipshit.
if it lasted you 5 year then good for you, but I am just trying to help the rest of the pack that doesn't live in sunny california. there's people never regrease the track or change their motor oil for 100k, and their car is still working fine. so what's am i trying to say? the right stuff will most likely last longer than silicone spray.
if you are busting open them anyway, why not spend the extra just to know you used the right stuff?
Common sense- look for where is was before. It won't all be gone, bare minimum will still be seen as "gunk" full of dust, etc., that's why you should clean the old stuff out.
Don't know RE who is being called dipshit, but I didn't say use silicone on metel/metal parts, won't work for this type application. If you are saying I'm a dipshit, READ my postings carefully. Use the silicone on the RUBBER or felt/rubber gaskets, it's all there IS to use, never heard or seen another product for door/window gaskets.
Won't stay on forever, but, as I said, the gaskets should be hit with the silicone as a regular maintenance item. It's the best you can do, there is nothong that will preserve the gaskets forever.
Pull the door-panels, you'll see where the grease was originally put in factory, lubing is not rocket-science- Wrenchy
Don't know RE who is being called dipshit, but I didn't say use silicone on metel/metal parts, won't work for this type application. If you are saying I'm a dipshit, READ my postings carefully. Use the silicone on the RUBBER or felt/rubber gaskets, it's all there IS to use, never heard or seen another product for door/window gaskets.
Won't stay on forever, but, as I said, the gaskets should be hit with the silicone as a regular maintenance item. It's the best you can do, there is nothong that will preserve the gaskets forever.
Pull the door-panels, you'll see where the grease was originally put in factory, lubing is not rocket-science- Wrenchy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrenchy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Common sense- look for where is was before. It won't all be gone, bare minimum will still be seen as "gunk" full of dust, etc., that's why you should clean the old stuff out.
Don't know RE who is being called dipshit, but I didn't say use silicone on metel/metal parts, won't work for this type application. If you are saying I'm a dipshit, READ my postings carefully. Use the silicone on the RUBBER or felt/rubber gaskets, it's all there IS to use, never heard or seen another product for door/window gaskets.
Won't stay on forever, but, as I said, the gaskets should be hit with the silicone as a regular maintenance item. It's the best you can do, there is nothong that will preserve the gaskets forever.
Pull the door-panels, you'll see where the grease was originally put in factory, lubing is not rocket-science- Wrenchy</TD></TR></TABLE>
I beleive he was calling me a dipshit. But i'm not sure why. I guess he's to stupid to understand what I'm talking about so he just decided to lash out. I never said it worked only for me "dipshit". I've been using silicone spray on customers cars for years.
Don't know RE who is being called dipshit, but I didn't say use silicone on metel/metal parts, won't work for this type application. If you are saying I'm a dipshit, READ my postings carefully. Use the silicone on the RUBBER or felt/rubber gaskets, it's all there IS to use, never heard or seen another product for door/window gaskets.
Won't stay on forever, but, as I said, the gaskets should be hit with the silicone as a regular maintenance item. It's the best you can do, there is nothong that will preserve the gaskets forever.
Pull the door-panels, you'll see where the grease was originally put in factory, lubing is not rocket-science- Wrenchy</TD></TR></TABLE>
I beleive he was calling me a dipshit. But i'm not sure why. I guess he's to stupid to understand what I'm talking about so he just decided to lash out. I never said it worked only for me "dipshit". I've been using silicone spray on customers cars for years.
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