Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: insanity
Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic
hello,
Let me first say im sorry if it dosent belong in this forum. I just wanted to get some real life expeirence on the diffrence in handling between these 2 chassis. I currently have a eg hatchback shell which I was gonna start making into a roadrace car for h1. I was thinking though it seems like the integra chassis is a better foundation so I just wanted to see what you guys who have raced wtih both of them think. Thanks
Let me first say im sorry if it dosent belong in this forum. I just wanted to get some real life expeirence on the diffrence in handling between these 2 chassis. I currently have a eg hatchback shell which I was gonna start making into a roadrace car for h1. I was thinking though it seems like the integra chassis is a better foundation so I just wanted to see what you guys who have raced wtih both of them think. Thanks
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (dr.NAPIER)
They're both proven winners. Either one can be made competitive in HC. If you don't have any experience road racing, then you really might want to look at running a class like H4 or H5 instead of H1. Also, there are several good cars currently on the market, available for much less than it would take to build one.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (FlyZlow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They're both proven winners. Either one can be made competitive in H1. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed that for you, but its basically correct.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't have any experience road racing, then you really might want to look at running a class like H4 or H5 instead of H1. Also, there are several good cars currently on the market, available for much less than it would take to build one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is also true. Though no one ever seems to listen to we who have been there and back. It IS cheaper and more efficient to buy a race car ready or nearly ready to go. This is also a good time of year to do it. It gets you on the track sooner and lets you begin to learn about racing and race craft at an accelerated pace.
However, few new guys "with a shell" are flush with the $5000-10000 to buy an existing race car. They figure (somewhat incorrectly) that they can do everything themselves and save some money. What you really do is spread the same expense (sometimes even more...) over a longer period of time and get on the track a lot later in life than you expect you will. You also pay retail for all the safety and suspension parts instead of buying a depreciated car that already has them installed. BUT, you do have the opportunity to do everything the way you want it, learn about BUILDING a car before driving it, and (usually) also learn just how flaky your friends are who say they'll help and why paying $2000-3000 for a professional roll cage really can be easier and cheaper in the long run than getting your buddy, who is just starting his fabrication business, to do it for you at cost over the next two years...
All of this is cynical, harsh and negative, I know. But it has happened far too many times to be ignored as an accurate trend among new racers. Sad, but true more often than not...
Thawley
Fixed that for you, but its basically correct.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't have any experience road racing, then you really might want to look at running a class like H4 or H5 instead of H1. Also, there are several good cars currently on the market, available for much less than it would take to build one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is also true. Though no one ever seems to listen to we who have been there and back. It IS cheaper and more efficient to buy a race car ready or nearly ready to go. This is also a good time of year to do it. It gets you on the track sooner and lets you begin to learn about racing and race craft at an accelerated pace.
However, few new guys "with a shell" are flush with the $5000-10000 to buy an existing race car. They figure (somewhat incorrectly) that they can do everything themselves and save some money. What you really do is spread the same expense (sometimes even more...) over a longer period of time and get on the track a lot later in life than you expect you will. You also pay retail for all the safety and suspension parts instead of buying a depreciated car that already has them installed. BUT, you do have the opportunity to do everything the way you want it, learn about BUILDING a car before driving it, and (usually) also learn just how flaky your friends are who say they'll help and why paying $2000-3000 for a professional roll cage really can be easier and cheaper in the long run than getting your buddy, who is just starting his fabrication business, to do it for you at cost over the next two years...
All of this is cynical, harsh and negative, I know. But it has happened far too many times to be ignored as an accurate trend among new racers. Sad, but true more often than not...
Thawley
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 198
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From: Orange, CA
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (thawley)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
However, few new guys "with a shell" are flush with the $5000-10000 to buy an existing race car. They figure (somewhat incorrectly) that they can do everything themselves and save some money. What you really do is spread the same expense (sometimes even more...) over a longer period of time and get on the track a lot later in life than you expect you will. You also pay retail for all the safety and suspension parts instead of buying a depreciated car that already has them installed. BUT, you do have the opportunity to do everything the way you want it, learn about BUILDING a car before driving it, and (usually) also learn just how flaky your friends are who say they'll help and why paying $2000-3000 for a professional roll cage really can be easier and cheaper in the long run than getting your buddy, who is just starting his fabrication business, to do it for you at cost over the next two years...
All of this is cynical, harsh and negative, I know. But it has happened far too many times to be ignored as an accurate trend among new racers. Sad, but true more often than not...
Thawley </TD></TR></TABLE>
...well put. So true, wish i could start over again. Better to get into someone's car and carry sponsors with you. There're many forms of sponsor/support and as a driver you'll need as many as you can get to be competitive.
However, few new guys "with a shell" are flush with the $5000-10000 to buy an existing race car. They figure (somewhat incorrectly) that they can do everything themselves and save some money. What you really do is spread the same expense (sometimes even more...) over a longer period of time and get on the track a lot later in life than you expect you will. You also pay retail for all the safety and suspension parts instead of buying a depreciated car that already has them installed. BUT, you do have the opportunity to do everything the way you want it, learn about BUILDING a car before driving it, and (usually) also learn just how flaky your friends are who say they'll help and why paying $2000-3000 for a professional roll cage really can be easier and cheaper in the long run than getting your buddy, who is just starting his fabrication business, to do it for you at cost over the next two years...
All of this is cynical, harsh and negative, I know. But it has happened far too many times to be ignored as an accurate trend among new racers. Sad, but true more often than not...
Thawley </TD></TR></TABLE>
...well put. So true, wish i could start over again. Better to get into someone's car and carry sponsors with you. There're many forms of sponsor/support and as a driver you'll need as many as you can get to be competitive.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6
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From: Northern, CA, USA
Very true ^^^^ just as long you you go through all four HPDE groups, you should then be eligable for a NASA competition race liscence. I'm shooting for H1 if not TT with the EG and EK chassis. (We need more H1 drivers.)
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From: AZ, United States
Re: (EKoutlaw)
I'm currently in kinda the same boat as the forum starter.
I have a good shell Eg cpe and K20 already installed with moderate suspension mods and have been hitting up the HPDEs 3 weekends as far this year.
About the Money into a Car.
I still have around 3Gs to spend before my car is even to my personal comfort and NASA HC race spec. There is currently 14Gs in the car right now with rims and rubber over 1.9yr project.
Hartantos H1 car is or may still be for sale for around 20Gs with extras, errr.
As a noob, the learning curve is a little steep starting with a K20 powerplant as you have all the speed you need but non of the experience. Having 3 HPDEs and have been passed off to run solo a bit, I still prolly have 2-4 events to go before I'm allowed into group 3, prolly like 6-10 before I am comfortable in group 4 and ready for Honda Challenge. Personally, at $400-500 a 2 day weekend, its going to be deep into 08 before I have 10 events under my belt. I'll be hitting up as many SCCA events as possible for tunning of car and brain.
Keep a budget, document everything you do/buy, keep your ears perked for deals, take advantage of as much instruction as possible and remember, safety first.
Good luck fellow H1 hopefull
I have a good shell Eg cpe and K20 already installed with moderate suspension mods and have been hitting up the HPDEs 3 weekends as far this year.
About the Money into a Car.
I still have around 3Gs to spend before my car is even to my personal comfort and NASA HC race spec. There is currently 14Gs in the car right now with rims and rubber over 1.9yr project.
Hartantos H1 car is or may still be for sale for around 20Gs with extras, errr.
As a noob, the learning curve is a little steep starting with a K20 powerplant as you have all the speed you need but non of the experience. Having 3 HPDEs and have been passed off to run solo a bit, I still prolly have 2-4 events to go before I'm allowed into group 3, prolly like 6-10 before I am comfortable in group 4 and ready for Honda Challenge. Personally, at $400-500 a 2 day weekend, its going to be deep into 08 before I have 10 events under my belt. I'll be hitting up as many SCCA events as possible for tunning of car and brain.
Keep a budget, document everything you do/buy, keep your ears perked for deals, take advantage of as much instruction as possible and remember, safety first.
Good luck fellow H1 hopefull
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Portland, OR
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (thawley)
While I agree with the notion to buy before build, if everyone does this there will be a slow decline in good, slightly used, race cars. Someone has to build right? Maybe this is just a conspiracy to limit supply and raise demand for used race cars? Dun dun duuunnn 
Anyway, I recommend that the OP pick up a copy of this book
Anyway, I recommend that the OP pick up a copy of this book
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: AZ, United States
Re: (Simon Tibbett)
The Forum Starter wants to Run H1 - Myself as well - here are my thoughts
Starting from scratch, there is Nothin Cheap about building a safe and reliable H1 car to be competitive unless you have a lot of hookups for all the right parts.
good Shell - 1-3Gs
K20 or Newer H22 with H2B kit will be needed - Min of 6-8Gs right there with fat hookups. More like 10G to setup a K with a Kpro, nice clutch, header and fuel system.
Brakes - Pads, fluid and rotors - $300 - Cobalt GTs and Autozone rotors
expensive coilovers and redone suspension bushings - Min of 2Gs
Seats and belts 800min cuz you have to have equal restraint for HPDE
cage - Min of $900 shipped - Cheapest one to get by is the Autopower I think
With many minor details missing,
I just added up 11-17Gs. That my friend is not cheap at all.
Starting from scratch, there is Nothin Cheap about building a safe and reliable H1 car to be competitive unless you have a lot of hookups for all the right parts.
good Shell - 1-3Gs
K20 or Newer H22 with H2B kit will be needed - Min of 6-8Gs right there with fat hookups. More like 10G to setup a K with a Kpro, nice clutch, header and fuel system.
Brakes - Pads, fluid and rotors - $300 - Cobalt GTs and Autozone rotors
expensive coilovers and redone suspension bushings - Min of 2Gs
Seats and belts 800min cuz you have to have equal restraint for HPDE
cage - Min of $900 shipped - Cheapest one to get by is the Autopower I think
With many minor details missing,
I just added up 11-17Gs. That my friend is not cheap at all.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: AZ, United States
Re: (Simon Tibbett)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simon Tibbett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being competitive is where the line splits, having fun can be had cheap, being competitive in any class will not be cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree.
I don't like to loose, but will learn from it, so I build all my cars to be competitive within reason.
I agree.
I don't like to loose, but will learn from it, so I build all my cars to be competitive within reason.
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From: Cumming, GA, USA
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (dr.NAPIER)
While there is a ton of getting started advice, and because we don't know your experience it may be better advice than the question you asked, to the actual question...
From what I have heard (i.e. I haven't raced either chasis);
-4 door teg is the stiffest
-eg hatch can be the lightest and has many interchangeable parts w/ a teg.
Depending on MANY set-up factors (tires, suspension, chasis stiffening, etc.) either car could be great. I'll second the recomendation to buy a used track car w/ a current log book, but if you are into building then go with the eg since you've got it already. Good luck, read the rule book, do your research, and save you pennies.
From what I have heard (i.e. I haven't raced either chasis);
-4 door teg is the stiffest
-eg hatch can be the lightest and has many interchangeable parts w/ a teg.
Depending on MANY set-up factors (tires, suspension, chasis stiffening, etc.) either car could be great. I'll second the recomendation to buy a used track car w/ a current log book, but if you are into building then go with the eg since you've got it already. Good luck, read the rule book, do your research, and save you pennies.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: San Diego., CA, USA
Re: Integra chassis vs EG hatchback civic (RPM_69)
Yeah, do NOT build your own racecar if you are just starting out. (Unless, that is your goal to BUILD a racecar) If all you want to do is race, then just BUY!
You'll probably be "teething" a new racecar for 90% of the first year. Don't do it. Get someone elses car that has been proven, and has most of the bugs worked out of it.
SHAMELESS PLUG: So buy my H1 EK already! Its a friggin steal.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1536613
You'll probably be "teething" a new racecar for 90% of the first year. Don't do it. Get someone elses car that has been proven, and has most of the bugs worked out of it.
SHAMELESS PLUG: So buy my H1 EK already! Its a friggin steal.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1536613
Banned
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From: AL
I fully agree with Thawley. People don't seem to be able to see all of the numbers when it comes to building a race car. I have a car in my shop right now that should have been scrapped but the owner wanted to turn it into a race car so he is paying me to put a 2500$ cage into the car. It will still only be a chassis at that point. He will have to sink another 20-25K in it just to get on track.
Just because you have a tub doesn't mean you have a race car. I have another customer that went through three cages before he paid real money for a cage that would pass tech. There is no such thing as cheap racing.
Just because you have a tub doesn't mean you have a race car. I have another customer that went through three cages before he paid real money for a cage that would pass tech. There is no such thing as cheap racing.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Raleigh, NC, USA
Re: (turboteener)
I think some of us find that half the fun of the sport is building the car. Then you run it, see what doesn't work right, and change it. I have as much fun tinkering with the car as I do driving it.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: (rmcdaniels)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think some of us find that half the fun of the sport is building the car. Then you run it, see what doesn't work right, and change it. I have as much fun tinkering with the car as I do driving it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
exactly
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From: AL
Don't get me wrong. I am all about building your own race car. You will be ahead of the pack in some cases. But all of the best engineering and fabrication won't get you around the track faster if you can't drive faster than the next guy.
If you want to go racing, buy a car and go racing. If you like to build and tinker, build your own. Just be aware of how much work and time it will take to build it yourself.
If you want to go racing, buy a car and go racing. If you like to build and tinker, build your own. Just be aware of how much work and time it will take to build it yourself.
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