Can anyone breif me as to the differces maybe, I'm alittle under educated on the subject but here goes:

Basically my clutch feels like it always has. Only now when I start the car in nuetral and try to shift inot any gear, it won't let me (even from a slight roll forward or reverse). I can VERY rarely get it into gear, but it doesn't like to shift out of that gear unless I get lucky, and then only to neutral.

If I shhut the car off I am able to freely shift into any gear. Sounds like a pressure problem to me. I tried to bleed the clutch and I never got any fluid out of the nipple, but did get a little around the threads at the base of the nipple screw.

Both parts are beleived to have up to 197K on them!!! Whoa, yea, I know a lot of miles, but I am sssooo pathetically broke right now, not even funny.

Can any one help me out, any ideas on what is probably is?

 

Mine will do that when I'm low on manual transmission fluid. Check that out first.

Then you can simply have someone push in the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder push on the clutch fork and you'll be able to see if it's disengaging the clutch or not. Also check for leaks, etc..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine will do that when I'm low on manual transmission fluid. Check that out first.

Then you can simply have someone push in the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder push on the clutch fork and you'll be able to see if it's disengaging the clutch or not. Also check for leaks, etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I'll deffinetly check the fluid level, but I haven't ever had a problem with it before, and I know 've changed it within 6,000 miles.

As far as the clutch fork, it does move when someone pushes the clutch, but it didn't make any sense to me why I didn't see any fluid squirting out of the nipple when I was bleeding it like it used to do. I thought that was part of the main underlying problem.

Anything else? How hard is it to replace these?

 

it's really simple... the hard part is holding everything in place while you stick the bolts in. Make sure to bench bleed the cylinder too.. that helps a lot!

 

Can someone educate me on how these work togeather, and how to tell which, if not both to replace? A little insight would go a long way...
Thanks

 

I am not sure if this is what you are asking....but the master cylinder is the one that connects directly to the clutch pedal. It's the one that pumps the fluid to the slave cylinder (connected to the tranny.) The slave clylinder is the one that actually pushes on the clutch fork to put pressure on the clutch pressure plate to engage/disengage the clutch.

Honestly, your issue sounds like a bad clutch. I would suspect a warped clutch disk. However, check your tranny oil first, flush out the clutch fluid, and get under the hood while a friend pushes on the clutch to see if the slave cylinder is working properly. The slave cylinder is mounted on the front of the tranny, just to the left of where the front engine mount it.

Also, if you decide to replace the clutch master or slave cylinder, change them at the same time. The slave cylinder is MUCH easier to do. The master cylinder is difficult, mainly because of it being up in the footwell of the driver's side of the car. It is tight back there getting to the nuts.

 

Can I respectfully say to you that if they have 190K miles you probably need to simply replace one or the other. Neither is all that expensive and my lude had 180K on it when I started having similar problems. I replaced both the master and slave and its perfect now! As to how it works? You have a passive hydralic system consisting of a fluid resovoir a cylinder with a piston (this is the master cylinder and is located in engine compartment directly on the other side of Clutch pedal) and stainless steel high pressure capability tubing in a closed environment that leads to a slave cylinder (located at the fork for the clutch assembly at the transmission). As pressure is applied to the master cylinder piston (via the clutch pedal) it forced the fluid down the pipe and into the slave cylinder whose piston then actuates disengaging the transmission. Subsequently when pressure is removed from the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder piston returns to its inward position thereby forcing the fluid back to the master cylinder which is evidenced by the clutch pedal returning to its normal position. If there is any air, or leakage in the system (even it it is an internal seal) then the whole system is defeated and is rendered worthless. I hope any of this makes some sense...

 

Yes it does, thanks a bunch, now I just need to figure out how to do it...