Okay IM trying to remove my timing belt and im stuck on the first step
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From: Playas de Tijuana, Baja California, Mexico
On my guide it says to "turn the crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at topdead-center" what piston is it talking about?
yeah, you have to turn the cranshaft to TDC so that when you take the head off the two middle pistons will be all the way up, and the 2 outside one will be all the way down. you do this so the valves are seated up, and everything is even i guess.
you're basically doing this so when you take the belt off and the replace it' when you start the car for the first time you dont float a valve otr anything.
i dont mean to sound like a jerk, but if you cant do the first step to this project, stop. timing belts are scary because you run the risk of hurting you motor if you domnt reall know what you're doing
you're basically doing this so when you take the belt off and the replace it' when you start the car for the first time you dont float a valve otr anything.
i dont mean to sound like a jerk, but if you cant do the first step to this project, stop. timing belts are scary because you run the risk of hurting you motor if you domnt reall know what you're doing
I dont mean to sound like a jerk, but why would he need to take the head off if hes just taking off the belt?? And I am 100% sure the #1 cylinder isnt one of the middle ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont mean to sound like a jerk, but why would he need to take the head off if hes just taking off the belt?? And I am 100% sure the #1 cylinder isnt one of the middle ones. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you're correct. it goes 4-3-2-1-timing belt. and im sorry for jumping to conclusions. ithought maybe he was replacing a head gasket.
you're correct. it goes 4-3-2-1-timing belt. and im sorry for jumping to conclusions. ithought maybe he was replacing a head gasket.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HTn00b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you know when the no 1 piston is at top dead center?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This might be a ghetto way to do it, but when I was doing a leakdown test I would stick one of those really long screwdrivers in the sparkplug hole, then turn the crank until the screwdriver stopped moving up.
You should really buy a Helms manual, not only to cut down on the time it takes due to not knowing what to do, but to also make sure you dont .expletive anything up while doing this.
This might be a ghetto way to do it, but when I was doing a leakdown test I would stick one of those really long screwdrivers in the sparkplug hole, then turn the crank until the screwdriver stopped moving up.
You should really buy a Helms manual, not only to cut down on the time it takes due to not knowing what to do, but to also make sure you dont .expletive anything up while doing this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This might be a ghetto way to do it, but when I was doing a leakdown test I would stick one of those really long screwdrivers in the sparkplug hole, then turn the crank until the screwdriver stopped moving up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow creative!
never would have thought of that.
This might be a ghetto way to do it, but when I was doing a leakdown test I would stick one of those really long screwdrivers in the sparkplug hole, then turn the crank until the screwdriver stopped moving up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow creative!
never would have thought of that.
I agree that you should just stop and get help if you got stuck on something like that. Or else get ready 92-00 Civic forum for the "im stuck on the 2nd/3rd/4th...etc step" threads.
OK stop! No more screwdriver in the whole non-sense. Their are plenty of ways to do this. Best way, their are marks on your cam gear and on your crank pulley. If you don't believe me search. This is covered twice a week. #1 Cylinder is the one closest to the T belt.
If you do the screw driver trick you will find your self plus or minus a tooth when you re-assemble. Take an engines class and you will learn that you can't feel every single bit of movement a piston makes, that is, unless you have a built in dial indicator on your finger tips.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p00n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do the screw driver trick you will find your self plus or minus a tooth when you re-assemble. Take an engines class and you will learn that you can't feel every single bit of movement a piston makes, that is, unless you have a built in dial indicator on your finger tips.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially because the piston will move less and less as it approaches TDC, yet the cam and crank continue to move at the same rate. Bottomline: don't do **** like this yourself unless you actually know what you're doing.
Especially because the piston will move less and less as it approaches TDC, yet the cam and crank continue to move at the same rate. Bottomline: don't do **** like this yourself unless you actually know what you're doing.
if the timing belt is still there and correctly installed just pull the covers off and move the crank until the marks line up, regardless of cylinder position, install new belt and make sure same marks are lined up. no need to absolutely make sure its TDC unless the belt has popped or the cam or crank has been moved.
and remember turn the motor COUNTERCLOCKWISE ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and remember turn the motor COUNTERCLOCKWISE ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats true, I forgot about that. I shouldntve suggested that for a timing belt job even though it happened to work for me for a leakdown test. Although the piston did move once or twice due to it not being perfectly at TDC
your stock cam shaft should say "up"... when this at the top... #1 cylinder(closest one to the belt) should be top dead center.
reason why is so when you move the belt every thing is align so you wont mess up timing. but evertime you change your belt you still have to make sure timing is right.
reason why is so when you move the belt every thing is align so you wont mess up timing. but evertime you change your belt you still have to make sure timing is right.
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