Need Help...car died while driving
Ok, since I have a beater I don't drive my ITR as often as I use to. It was a nice day here in NC, so I figured I would drive it. I'm cruising to work in 5th gear @ 55-60 mph and the car kinda hesitates for a split second. It was so brief I didn't get to check the a/f meter. Never happened again, even on the commute home. This evening, I started prepping my car for the track this weekend; new pads, flush lines, flush clutch, oil, etc. Decided to go see a friend to break the pads in a bit. While cruising home on the belt-line around 70mph in 5th, the car loses power. It wouldn't respond to throttle movement and the A/F went solid red. This was probably for 10 seconds. As I slowed towards the shoulder, in traffic so I couldn't just coast over, power returned and the A/F started scrolling again as usual. No code was ever thrown.
Any idea what happened?
I haven't changed the fuel filter in about 13-14,000 miles. Need to do that. Could an injector be going bad?
List of mods: Spoon header, Comptech airbox, CarSound cat, VAFC.
[Modified by RStoR, 10:45 PM 5/7/2002]
Any idea what happened?
I haven't changed the fuel filter in about 13-14,000 miles. Need to do that. Could an injector be going bad?
List of mods: Spoon header, Comptech airbox, CarSound cat, VAFC.
[Modified by RStoR, 10:45 PM 5/7/2002]
Possibly ignitor(Ignition Control Module)... check for spark.. if none, it's a good possibility... testing procedures in the shop manual.
Mine did this same thing before it went completely bad..on a hot track lap(accidental Lift throttle oversteer in Hogpen =
) If it gets longer and longer between time it cuts off and restarts(Like only after cooldown) it's a good possibility. Take the car out in a parking lot.. go around in circles at high rpms to get it good and hot and see if it cuts off... if so, it should restart after cooldown. Good Luck. Could be something else, but just thought I'd toss the idea to you since I have experienced first hand.
[Modified by XR4racer, 9:53 AM 5/8/2002]
Mine did this same thing before it went completely bad..on a hot track lap(accidental Lift throttle oversteer in Hogpen =
) If it gets longer and longer between time it cuts off and restarts(Like only after cooldown) it's a good possibility. Take the car out in a parking lot.. go around in circles at high rpms to get it good and hot and see if it cuts off... if so, it should restart after cooldown. Good Luck. Could be something else, but just thought I'd toss the idea to you since I have experienced first hand.
[Modified by XR4racer, 9:53 AM 5/8/2002]
Finally got the car to throw a Code 3 - MAP sensor low or high voltage. Thinking it could definitely be linked to the VAFC now.
What are your VAFC settings?
Have you added significant amounts of fuel via the VAFC?
Just curious. I found that if adding large increases of fuel across a broad rpm range I encountered a code 3. However, my AF gauge went hard green and the car ran like it was a top fuel dragster minus 5000 hp. My eyes were watering after 5 minutes until I reset the ECU.
Have you added significant amounts of fuel via the VAFC?
Just curious. I found that if adding large increases of fuel across a broad rpm range I encountered a code 3. However, my AF gauge went hard green and the car ran like it was a top fuel dragster minus 5000 hp. My eyes were watering after 5 minutes until I reset the ECU.
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I have found the ecu doesn't respond to the VAFC when you turn up fuel more than 5% It will throw codes if its above 5%, but you can decrease it as much as you like.
I'll check the ground. The max setting is +10 around 5500-5700 (off the top of my head) with VTEC transition moved to 5400. I've used these settings for 4+ months with no problems. I zeroed out the VAFC and reset to OE spec before it thru the code.
My car had a similar problem. I'll be driving and power goes out, then comes back. I traced my problem to a lose battery cable. Check to see if the battery cables are loose in anyway. Clean the connection to elimate the battery as the source of problem.
CB
CB
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