The thing is I'm very picky about how my car sits. When I first got my car, it had stock suspension. I scored Ground Control coilovers for $50 and put them on the car and lowered it 2.5" in the front, and 2.5" in the back. The front of the car sat exactly how I wanted it to, but the rear sat uneven. The coilovers were adjusted as best as possible and were level when tested with a level. The passenger side rear had a 2 finger gap, the drivers side rear had no finger gap on the ground controls. So I figured it was the coilovers, so I ditched them in favor of some Skunk2 lowering springs. I put the springs on, the front sits perfect, and the passenger side rear still has that 2 finger gap that it did before with the Ground Controls. The drivers side rear sits as it should as it has with both suspension set ups. It's pissing me off to no end and I want to know how I fix this problem because it's getting really old having my car sit all goofy in the rear after going through 2 suspension set ups with the SAME PROBLEM. Someone has to know..

/vent

 

somethings bent. Either that or one of the fenders doesn't line up with the other side.

 

what do you think it could be thats bent?

 

What shocks are you using? Stock?
Are you sure you put everything back the right way?

 

stock shocks yes, quite sure I put everything back correctly. If I left something out, what could it be to make it sit like that.

 

you ditched Ground Controls in favor of Skunks?? ahh man.

Some hondas, the passenger side is notoriously higher than the driver's side.

 

yep my ej1 and my brothers em1 both sit lower on the drivers side...mine being lowered with omnis and his on Eibach sportlines...it pisses me off to but Ive learned to deal with it. If you get behind my car while driving you dont notice it at all...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1hgej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock shocks yes, quite sure I put everything back correctly. If I left something out, what could it be to make it sit like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Now that I think about the rear suspension, you really can't do it too wrong.

 

^^ blown shocks do not cause one side to be higher than the other, in fact, shocks have nothing to do with ride height given that all four corners are on same shock/strut

 

Your SPRINGS are what changes ride height. Hence why ppl buy lowering springs. People DO NOT buy shocks to lower a car. Just b/c a shock is blown, the piston still moves up and down b/c the whole shock assembly is bolted to the frame of the car. If it's blown, then there just wont be any resistance of the piston to move up and down.

 

Shocks don't support the weight of the vehicle; they control the motion of the springs. The springs is whats supporting the vehicle.

What you think is true, 99d16, that a shock does have a "neutral posistion" of the piston but this doesn't apply when you have it on the car, maybe when its out on a work bench or something. The gas charge will usually indicate whether or not the piston will 'pop out' on its own. If you have really stiff rebound valving or adjustable rebound dampers then expect the piston to never come out if compressed either that or its really hard to pull out; my SPSS3 Konis are damned near impossible to pull out by hand when set to full stiff.

 

So what you describe is the springs pushing back when you push down. The springs have way more force than the gas charge in the shocks. The springs only compress so much given their spring rate and the amount of weight on each corner pushing down on it. I could take out the shock piston on my setup (if i could) and the car would still sit at the same height because of my springs; they'd be the same distance from the spring cup to the upper mount, there'd be the same weight on that spring so it'd sit the same. Someone can word this better than I can.

 

Not even full coilover dampers would fix this? I ditched the GC's because I thought they were the problem, and they were made for a DC teg.


Modified by 1hgej1 at 11:57 AM 11/15/2006

 

Ant coilover would fix this. As long as you measure to the same point on the car and ignore measuring the same point on the coilover. IE a suspension part. For a street car people get away with measuring wheel gap. Simply adjust the coilovers so the gap is the same all the way around. You know if you have another serious problem when you go to get an alignment.

 

Coilover sleeves didnt work, Lowering springs didnt work, so I'm left with spending a lot of money on a full coilover system to fix this problem. Anyone else besides dvp think that this'll solve the problem? Or do you think something is bent?


Modified by 1hgej1 at 12:14 PM 11/15/2006

 

If coilover sleeves didn't work why would a fully coilover set work?
You didn't adjust the sleeves right is all.

 

The sleeves were adjusted right using a level and all. It sit funny in the back, so I ditched the sleeves for springs. I was thinking a full coilover might work because its a shock/spring and top hat and maybe the stock shocks are just shot.

 

Why not try replacing the bushings in the trailing arm!! these help support the rear suspension and ride height if one is worn more than the other or torn wouldn't this effect ride height?

Edit are you sure the floor that the car is on is level? We used to have markings on our floor with numbers of tiles to add to that spot to make sure the our starting point was level

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1hgej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sleeves were adjusted right using a level and all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of adjusting coilovers using a level. Where did you put the level, and did you make sure that the car was sitting on level ground? I don't really understand the problem. If the car was sitting lower on one corner all you do is raise the coilover on that corner. "Full coilovers" aren't going to be any different than the GCs