I know this is covered a lot about swaps and such, but I wanted opinions for my specific car.

My new toy is a 94 civic dx with 5 spd. My old toy is a Trans Am GTA, putting out just at under 400 lbs of TQ (all mods done by me), but im new/lost in the tuner world.

My goal for the civic is 250 HP as cheap as I can get it. The car will be a daily driver and I still want it reliable. I would rather not have a swap and dont even say NOS. I do not want an expensive swap either when i could just go get an teggy for not much more than the cost of the swap.

What would you guys recommend to reach my goal of 250 hp at a cheap price?

 

NOS...

No I'm j/k

You'll never pull 250 outa it with a straight up swap..

Turbo, you can run 18psi or so on a tuned turbo build, bigger fuel injectors, larger fuel pump, forged rods, low compression pistons, and ARP studs for like $2k and it'll be all good for 300bhp

You can use your stock engine if you feel it's healthy but I'd recommend going to a D16Z6 or JDM VTEC D15B, and stay OBD-I.

 

Modified by THC1107 at 9:49 AM 11/12/2006

 

oh, syndacate is on drugs... i know, i sold them to em. lol sup player

btw the H22 is fuckhat fast

 

So in all, pretty much switch platforms completely if i'm trying to get that much?

I was reading up on the mini-me for my engine, but I dont see how all that trouble and even that amount of money is worth 25 hp.

I would rather go to a d16 if I had to swap it at all.

How much money/hp/tq would it take to push a civic into the 14s? (yes i know theres a lot of factors that go into that, but just in general with the stock weight and a semi good suspension)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sasser43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My goal for the civic is 250 HP as cheap as I can get it. The car will be a daily driver and I still want it reliable. I would rather not have a swap and dont even say NOS. I do not want an expensive swap either when i could just go get an teggy for not much more than the cost of the swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

choose 2: fast, cheap, reliable. you cant have all 3

 

if you wana get in the 14s, get a pre 92 hatch or CRX. A d series in those can be pretty fast without much mods, the cars weigh bout 2k. If you can get a JDM D15b, d16Y8, or D16z6 in one of those im pretty sure those engines without any mods can do 14s. Put in a cam with I/H/E, and youll be golden.

 

My stock b16 in my eg runs 14.7. It was cheap to get and install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Turbo, you can run 18psi or so on a tuned turbo build, bigger fuel injectors, larger fuel pump, forged rods, low compression pistons, and ARP studs for like $2k and it'll be all good for 300bhp
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said is very true but will cost you more then 2k but sill under 3. Most new rod/piston setups require modification to the block which can kill your wallet.

The most easiest/cheapest wat to achieve 250 hp id say would still be with the D16. B18c's are 3k+ unless u buy one from a person you dont really know instead of a reputable site(under 60kmiles). lets say you get everything for the b18 swap. Well you just shitted out 3.5-4k. d16 built and turbo on a budget can be dont for under 3k. If you take the block and notched it for certain rods, hottanked it, and blueprinted plus all your parts installed by sum1 else, go ahead and add 1k to the original 3k but that also alows you to boost to the crazy 400hp+ setups for the same 3.5-4k for that c6's 200hp. If you kept your goal under 240hp you could safely and reliably boost that on stock internals.

d16
if your going to do turbo and change r/p you can go with any block and a z6 or y8 head to start. d16 are very cheap btw, running well under 500 bucks and not to mention the parts are cheaper.

turbod16.com


Modified by platinumx6 at 6:21 AM 11/12/2006

 

A junkyard turbo setup can be had for less than $1000 if you buy used and shop wisely.

A VERY basic setup should easily get you into the 14s, or below.

Check out D-Series.org, and HomeMadeTurbo.com

If you're looking to make serious power, look into TunerToys rods and Suzuki Vitara pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petty$rep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">choose 2: fast, cheap, reliable. you cant have all 3</TD></TR></TABLE>

250whp isn't asking for that much power, cheaply and reliable..you can get it pretty cheap, and pretty reliabily....now if he said 600whp NATURAL ASPIRED then the game would change a bit.

at usage of that "phrase" this time...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC1107 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, syndacate is on drugs... i know, i sold them to em. lol sup player

btw the H22 is fuckhat fast</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sup Kalin man, shoulda knew u would show up to boast the prestige of the H22 .

H22's nice...but good for 200whp, and that's IT. Doesn't respond to well to boltons, SUCKS for boost. I weighed a JDM H22a complete changeover from hmotorsonline with mounts, axles, and an LSD tranny for like 3400 or whatever the # was I told you last time, it was RIDICULOUS.. That'll put me close to 200, and with a more aggressive cam (which will also need a tune) I'd be just at or over 200whp (w/ I/H/E of course), that's coming up on 4k soon dude. PLUS the work you have to pay for if you can't do it yourself. Like I wouldn't feel safe taking a cutter to my only eg chassis for the shfit cables...I'd have somebody who'd actually done the swap before do it...

So that's 4k...what's 250 whp on a JDM D15b or D16Z6 on boost? 2 - 3k and it'll easily be seeing 300, 320bhp??

I wanted to go the way of the H22...but it costs too ******* much. Can't boost it later, and upgrades/parts are harder to find for it...

Not everybody runs into deals like that where somebody has a wrecked prelude and can just do that...

Not to mention that there's that video on I think it's turbo-d.com, or mabye it was just floating around H-T 'bout a guy on stock ints running around w/ a turbo D owning people...and one of the cars he owned was an H22a hatch....only car that really beat him down was the talon/eclipse (turbo'ed).

Nothing really comes close to boost...

 

So bottom line, can I push my current engine to 14 seconds without breaking the bank?

 

MINI ME DIY always good and cheap or LS/Vtec

 

i was thinking mini-me with some bolt ons, but some people say the mini me isnt worth what you pay.

 

ls swap with turbo..... boost away....or just custom build a turbo it for your car for like $1000

 

i am built for boost in my z6 coupe t3/t4 force fed and i got 276 whp its the easiest way oh oh and a apexi power fc.

 

but is it the cheapest?

 

swaps are pretty damn expensive. if you can come up with 4k to 6k money wise then i would definateley do a swap it would be better, especially in the long run. im only 18 and have never had a large amout of money worth to do it. i always beat dohc turbos though it feals damn nice to tell em that you have a d-series.

 

how much boost are you running and how much money did it actually cost you for everything?

 

"my goal for the civic is 250 HP as cheap as I can get it. The car will be a daily driver and I still want it reliable."

You cant have cheap and reliable

pfft good luck getting those numbers without a swap or like 10k in the motor

 

17 lbs at track and 14 lbs daily drive. but you better like to work and or repair cars cause a d-series at that kinda horespower equalls money and maintenence.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej1 assasin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">17 lbs at track and 14 lbs daily drive. but you better like to work and or repair cars cause a d-series at that kinda horespower equalls money and maintenence.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG

D series are just as reliable as a B engine

stock bottum ends are good for 220-240
heads are good for over 350. i think its 400.

 

well it sure doesnt seem like it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"my goal for the civic is 250 HP as cheap as I can get it. The car will be a daily driver and I still want it reliable."

You cant have cheap and reliable

pfft good luck getting those numbers without a swap or like 10k in the motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

we've already been over that overused statement in the beginning of this thread but apparently you forgot to read the whole damn thing.

250hp isnt that much to ask for, you can still do something under 2k and have something reliable.

 

you keep mentioning a mini me swap, you do realize that will net you about 100-110whp MAX right???/

gotta pay to play.

why do you want 14s, and if you cant hit 14s for under $2k something is wrong with you.