i dunno i think its piston rings anyone have any other thoughts?

 

What color is the smoke? Are you overheating? Lossing oil, losing coolant? Does it only smoke when you accelerate? Need more info here. Start w/ the basics, Do a compression and leak down test and see where your at. Could be rings, valve seals, cracked head, or rings.

-Chris

 

it smokes when i accelerate and the oil did seem low so i added in some 2day the cars not losing power and still aclerates how it usto the smoke coming out is grey

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the oil did seem low so i added in some 2day</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a difference between "seeming low" and actually being low. Was the level of oil in the sump actually low? Did you check it after allowing the engine to sit off for several minutes? Did you check it while the car was on a level surface? How much oil did you add - what is the level in the sump now? It shouldn't be above the top dot on the dip stick.

When did it start smoking? After you added the oil? I'm betting that you overfilled the sump and the engine is burning off the excess oil.

 

it was burning oil even before i added oil but after i added oil it didnt seems as if it were burning oil as much as it did b4

 

Stay in school, kid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stay in school, kid.</TD></TR></TABLE>


"our amps go to eleven."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stay in school, kid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


"our amps go to eleven."</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great movie

 

If it "seems" to be broken, just "seem" to repair it, and it will be ok

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaHeddie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it "seems" to be broken, just "seem" to repair it, and it will be ok</TD></TR></TABLE>

common! do you actually think that the post made a difference to the Honda-tech archives...lets help the guy out like some have allready tried, i'm sure the way some people type on these forums just plain bothers you ( and me ) but he's here for help. Your car is most likely burning oil becuase of pistons rings, you drive a crx and thats atleast 15 years old if not more. Do a compression test, but a leak-down test is a better tool as It will single out the problem If done properly. Do a search on google for these two methods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s10cky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

common! do you actually think that the post made a difference to the Honda-tech archives...lets help the guy out like some have allready tried, i'm sure the way some people type on these forums just plain bothers you ( and me ) but he's here for help. Your car is most likely burning oil becuase of pistons rings, you drive a crx and thats atleast 15 years old if not more. Do a compression test, but a leak-down test is a better tool as It will single out the problem If done properly. Do a search on google for these two methods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good advice......and then go and get your rings and bearings and seals replaced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good advice......and then go and get your rings and bearings and seals replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not really cost effective if consumption is equal to or less than 1qt per 1000mi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's not really cost effective if consumption is equal to or less than 1qt per 1000mi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True...but it is if your picky like me and want a cheap totaly reliable burning nothing daily commuter with some zip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True...but it is if your picky like me and want a cheap totaly reliable burning nothing daily commuter with some zip.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's really just throwing money down the toilet if the car is otherwise running fine.

My engine consumes slightly under 1 quart per 1000 miles, but otherwise runs fine. A rebuild would not be cost effective at all. As long as I regularly keep the sump topped off, it will keep running fine. If consumption increases significantly, then it will be time to look into a rebuild.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

True...but it is if your picky like me and want a cheap totaly reliable burning nothing daily commuter with some zip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said. And my car now is as good as new for less than 500 dollars. I can now depend on it for another 15 yrs if I want. And it hasn't burned a drop in 2500 miles, not one.

 

Make sure you get a leak down test done, dont just do a compression test. If your top compression rings are fine but your oil ring is bad or stuck your compression test will show normal. My gsr motor I built gave awesome numbers on a compression test but when I pulled it apart to rebuild it ever oil ring was stuck inside the piston. Or like a few other people said, just watch your oil level and eventual swap the motor.

 

my crx has the same problem with a sohc ZC.

my engine is reading very cool, and my smoke is blue (oil being burnt) I was told that I might need either a Valve alignment or it could be bad rings... I would suggest buying a new head, or just replace the rings and so forth...

 

The valve adjustment wont help you. Mosre then likly its the oil seals on your valve stem that are bad and causing the oil burn. Dont just throw on a new head if you dont know whats wrong. A Leak down test will give you a real good, if not deff. idea where the oil is leaking by.

 

Yeah I see what your saying, but I dont leak oil at all. maybe a DROP but that's it. I want to say that I have a blown headgasket, but its not white smoke....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white90rexsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The valve adjustment wont help you. Mosre then likly its the oil seals on your valve stem that are bad and causing the oil burn. Dont just throw on a new head if you dont know whats wrong. A Leak down test will give you a real good, if not deff. idea where the oil is leaking by.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is correct I adjusted my valves and the carbon deposits actually made me burn up a valve, not fun at all. I would replace vavles, and valve seals because the seals is what is makin this thing throw smoke and the rings of course if their bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s10cky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

common! do you actually think that the post made a difference to the Honda-tech archives...lets help the guy out like some have allready tried, i'm sure the way some people type on these forums just plain bothers you ( and me ) but he's here for help. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Quite right.
Thanks for the head check.
Apologies to the poster

HT has been of great help to me and I should have done him better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My engine consumes slightly under 1 quart per 1000 miles, but otherwise runs fine. A rebuild would not be cost effective at all. As long as I regularly keep the sump topped off, it will keep running fine. If consumption increases significantly, then it will be time to look into a rebuild.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm kinda a perfectionist too but I must agree with what he said. If it's that bad, plan to replace the engine with something better in a few months. A d16z6 swap, if done right, only costs $500 or less.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm kinda a perfectionist too but I must agree with what he said. If it's that bad, plan to replace the engine with something better in a few months. A d16z6 swap, if done right, only costs $500 or less. </TD></TR></TABLE>


... where you buyin your engine from? lol