06 Civic Si i-vtec!
i just bought an 06 Civic Si not too long ago. And i just wanted to know how to properly use the i-vtec in it. I know that the red light by the fuel gauge turns on, but for how long can i have it blinking on there ?
hahahah step on the gas pedal young grass hopper. once u pass 5800 rpm u should feel and here the m4d i-vtec y0. shift when the light blinks tuttla!! dont be scurred of the magical power of vtec
i guess i asked the question wrong. I was just told that the red shift light will start blinking, and it will start blinking faster and faster the faster i drive, than all of a suddent it will go to a solid red color. and that would give me a 3sec time limit to shift. i just wanted to know if that was true or not. in 1st gear i hit around.....46mph
8,200rpm is the fuel cut-off point you can bring it to there but i normaly shift at aprox 8,000rpm plus i-vtec gives us more power in the mid range compared to older hondas. I feel it building quick right after 3,000rpm then from there its heaven i love the look on people's faces when i rip it up or down city streets. This car has a sexy *** exhaust note from the factory i find myself enjoying it more then blasting music sometimes just enjoy it and you drive it to the fullest extent !
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilgauzkas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess i asked the question wrong. I was just told that the red shift light will start blinking, and it will start blinking faster and faster the faster i drive, than all of a suddent it will go to a solid red color. and that would give me a 3sec time limit to shift. i just wanted to know if that was true or not. in 1st gear i hit around.....46mph</TD></TR></TABLE>
How did you hit 46 in first? Not possible. My first goes to 36, 2nd to ~60-65, 3rd ~75, and so on...
How did you hit 46 in first? Not possible. My first goes to 36, 2nd to ~60-65, 3rd ~75, and so on...
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 603
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From: So Cal, Long Beach/Gardena, California, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilgauzkas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess i asked the question wrong. I was just told that the red shift light will start blinking, and it will start blinking faster and faster the faster i drive, than all of a suddent it will go to a solid red color. and that would give me a 3sec time limit to shift. i just wanted to know if that was true or not. in 1st gear i hit around.....46mph </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know and i dont want to find out. I suggest u do the same.
I dont know and i dont want to find out. I suggest u do the same.
Lets see if I can sum it all up....
i-VTEC (without going into technicalities) adjusts some things in your motor to go from fuel saving mode, to high output mode. This occurs at, as stated above, 5,800rpm, though you may not notice it until 6,000.
The shift light begins blinking at 8,000 and becomes solid at 8,300 I believe. Or maybe it is vice versa... Either way, at 8,200 or 8,300 shift!
I wouldn't advise going that high in first myself, I typically shift at 7,500 - 7,800 in first to help reduce tire spin... but hey nothing a better set of tires wouldnt help reduce.
i-VTEC (without going into technicalities) adjusts some things in your motor to go from fuel saving mode, to high output mode. This occurs at, as stated above, 5,800rpm, though you may not notice it until 6,000.
The shift light begins blinking at 8,000 and becomes solid at 8,300 I believe. Or maybe it is vice versa... Either way, at 8,200 or 8,300 shift!
I wouldn't advise going that high in first myself, I typically shift at 7,500 - 7,800 in first to help reduce tire spin... but hey nothing a better set of tires wouldnt help reduce.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toxis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My first gear is 65mph, second 97, third 128, fourth 151, fifth 176, sixth... to scared to find out. But that's only when I kick in my m4d JDM Nawz. Not sure about stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOOOOL
LOOOOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toxis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My first gear is 65mph, second 97, third 128, fourth 151, fifth 176, sixth... to scared to find out. But that's only when I kick in my m4d JDM Nawz. Not sure about stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope you are joking
I hope you are joking
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilgauzkas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess i asked the question wrong. I was just told that the red shift light will start blinking, and it will start blinking faster and faster the faster i drive, than all of a suddent it will go to a solid red color. and that would give me a 3sec time limit to shift. i just wanted to know if that was true or not. in 1st gear i hit around.....46mph </TD></TR></TABLE>
I just want an HONEST answer on who told you this
I just want an HONEST answer on who told you this
dude, whoever told you that is messing with you. the vtec kicks in at around 6000 rpm. when you get to 7800, the shift light will blink. you can safely rev until 8200 (at least that where the needle is) before the engine will start to limit your acceleration. You need to shift then, but DONT MIS-SHIFT!!! the shock to the engine at that high RPM could cause you to blow your engine, even though it was zero-balanced at 10,000 RPM at the factory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yaz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the worst post ever, you should sell your car and get a bike</TD></TR></TABLE>
yours is the worst reply ever, you should stop surfing the internet and start reading books
Give the guy a break, not everyone walks into the world of Honda with an understanding of how Vtec or iVtec works
yours is the worst reply ever, you should stop surfing the internet and start reading books
Give the guy a break, not everyone walks into the world of Honda with an understanding of how Vtec or iVtec works
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yours is the worst reply ever, you should stop surfing the internet and start reading books
Give the guy a break, not everyone walks into the world of Honda with an understanding of how Vtec or iVtec works</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you dont like what i post ignore it, its not that hard. im a nice guy but sometimes people need to learn..
ever wonder why search is in red??
here ill help out.. just for you seanjohnboy
http://www.leecao.com/honda/vtec/whatsvtec.html
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just bought an 06 Civic Si not too long ago. And i just wanted to know how to properly use the i-vtec in it. I know that the red light by the fuel gauge turns on, but for how long can i have it blinking on there ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
congrats on your car, to drive a car with vtec is no different than driving a car without vtec. the only difference is that your peak horsepower will be higher in the RPM. you will hear a tone change when reving out a gear, around 6k rpm the car will sound louder thats due to the vtec changeover from the low cam profile to the more agressive cam profile. all vtec points are set to different RPMs, my integras change over is set to 7k(the user setting was done through hondata)
the I in I-vtec has to do with the variable cam timming where the intake cam itself will advance and retard x amount of degrees which is controlled by the ECU. the idea of this by honda is to give the car better mid range
asfar as the red shift light by the speedo goes it will blink faster untill you hit the rev limiter, you break in your car before you rev that high, if the car already has somemiles on it by now in a safe area in a low gear just mash it and see what happens. you will see how the light get faster and eventually see where the limiter kicks in.
vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
there may be more needed but asfar as i know thats the key inputs for vtec to enguage. if you find that the car does not go into vtec first thing id do is check oil.(often on track cars they find the car will "fall out of vtec" in turns and that is cuased by oil starve by the oil flowing away from the pickup.
yours is the worst reply ever, you should stop surfing the internet and start reading books
Give the guy a break, not everyone walks into the world of Honda with an understanding of how Vtec or iVtec works</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you dont like what i post ignore it, its not that hard. im a nice guy but sometimes people need to learn..
ever wonder why search is in red??
here ill help out.. just for you seanjohnboy
http://www.leecao.com/honda/vtec/whatsvtec.html
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just bought an 06 Civic Si not too long ago. And i just wanted to know how to properly use the i-vtec in it. I know that the red light by the fuel gauge turns on, but for how long can i have it blinking on there ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
congrats on your car, to drive a car with vtec is no different than driving a car without vtec. the only difference is that your peak horsepower will be higher in the RPM. you will hear a tone change when reving out a gear, around 6k rpm the car will sound louder thats due to the vtec changeover from the low cam profile to the more agressive cam profile. all vtec points are set to different RPMs, my integras change over is set to 7k(the user setting was done through hondata)
the I in I-vtec has to do with the variable cam timming where the intake cam itself will advance and retard x amount of degrees which is controlled by the ECU. the idea of this by honda is to give the car better mid range
asfar as the red shift light by the speedo goes it will blink faster untill you hit the rev limiter, you break in your car before you rev that high, if the car already has somemiles on it by now in a safe area in a low gear just mash it and see what happens. you will see how the light get faster and eventually see where the limiter kicks in.
vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
there may be more needed but asfar as i know thats the key inputs for vtec to enguage. if you find that the car does not go into vtec first thing id do is check oil.(often on track cars they find the car will "fall out of vtec" in turns and that is cuased by oil starve by the oil flowing away from the pickup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yaz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
congrats on your car, to drive a car with vtec is no different than driving a car without vtec. the only difference is that your peak horsepower will be higher in the RPM. you will hear a tone change when reving out a gear, around 6k rpm the car will sound louder thats due to the vtec changeover from the low cam profile to the more agressive cam profile. all vtec points are set to different RPMs, my integras change over is set to 7k(the user setting was done through hondata)
the I in I-vtec has to do with the variable cam timming where the intake cam itself will advance and retard x amount of degrees which is controlled by the ECU. the idea of this by honda is to give the car better mid range
asfar as the red shift light by the speedo goes it will blink faster untill you hit the rev limiter, you break in your car before you rev that high, if the car already has somemiles on it by now in a safe area in a low gear just mash it and see what happens. you will see how the light get faster and eventually see where the limiter kicks in.
vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
there may be more needed but asfar as i know thats the key inputs for vtec to enguage. if you find that the car does not go into vtec first thing id do is check oil.(often on track cars they find the car will "fall out of vtec" in turns and that is cuased by oil starve by the oil flowing away from the pickup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
should hvae just posted that in the first place
congrats on your car, to drive a car with vtec is no different than driving a car without vtec. the only difference is that your peak horsepower will be higher in the RPM. you will hear a tone change when reving out a gear, around 6k rpm the car will sound louder thats due to the vtec changeover from the low cam profile to the more agressive cam profile. all vtec points are set to different RPMs, my integras change over is set to 7k(the user setting was done through hondata)
the I in I-vtec has to do with the variable cam timming where the intake cam itself will advance and retard x amount of degrees which is controlled by the ECU. the idea of this by honda is to give the car better mid range
asfar as the red shift light by the speedo goes it will blink faster untill you hit the rev limiter, you break in your car before you rev that high, if the car already has somemiles on it by now in a safe area in a low gear just mash it and see what happens. you will see how the light get faster and eventually see where the limiter kicks in.
vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
there may be more needed but asfar as i know thats the key inputs for vtec to enguage. if you find that the car does not go into vtec first thing id do is check oil.(often on track cars they find the car will "fall out of vtec" in turns and that is cuased by oil starve by the oil flowing away from the pickup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
should hvae just posted that in the first place
Yaz,
You mentioned the vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
I have a 2006 Civic SI and it's a blast, however, on cold starts it chugs a bit until the engine warms up. It's like the choke is stuck (on older manual choke cars). I can choose to drive it slow for a short time, and it clears up. Sometimes I can blip the throttle or just nail it to get it out of this mode. Still, doesn't sound like a right thing,ially for a Honda. Why I'm replying to your post is that a Honda service person mentioned that the i-VTEC nedds to get temp and pressure up to make this condition go away. Are others or yourself experiencing this condition. Always use premium fuel; mtce is current, blah, blah. Thanks.
You mentioned the vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
I have a 2006 Civic SI and it's a blast, however, on cold starts it chugs a bit until the engine warms up. It's like the choke is stuck (on older manual choke cars). I can choose to drive it slow for a short time, and it clears up. Sometimes I can blip the throttle or just nail it to get it out of this mode. Still, doesn't sound like a right thing,ially for a Honda. Why I'm replying to your post is that a Honda service person mentioned that the i-VTEC nedds to get temp and pressure up to make this condition go away. Are others or yourself experiencing this condition. Always use premium fuel; mtce is current, blah, blah. Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rollerpuppy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yaz,
You mentioned the vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
I have a 2006 Civic SI and it's a blast, however, on cold starts it chugs a bit until the engine warms up. It's like the choke is stuck (on older manual choke cars). I can choose to drive it slow for a short time, and it clears up. Sometimes I can blip the throttle or just nail it to get it out of this mode. Still, doesn't sound like a right thing,ially for a Honda. Why I'm replying to your post is that a Honda service person mentioned that the i-VTEC nedds to get temp and pressure up to make this condition go away. Are others or yourself experiencing this condition. Always use premium fuel; mtce is current, blah, blah. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need at least a few bars on your temp gauge before you really start putting your foot in it. If you drive it while everything is still super cold you'll experience some bucking and abnormal behavior... IE a high idle.. the ecm is basically doing everything it can in order to get everything warmed up which is why it behaves in this way. Vtec will not even engage if the temp is too low ... driving it conservatively until everything gets up to normal operating temperatures is the best idea.
You mentioned the vtec needs a few inputs inorder to work properly
1 speed input
2 coolant temp
3 oilpressure
I have a 2006 Civic SI and it's a blast, however, on cold starts it chugs a bit until the engine warms up. It's like the choke is stuck (on older manual choke cars). I can choose to drive it slow for a short time, and it clears up. Sometimes I can blip the throttle or just nail it to get it out of this mode. Still, doesn't sound like a right thing,ially for a Honda. Why I'm replying to your post is that a Honda service person mentioned that the i-VTEC nedds to get temp and pressure up to make this condition go away. Are others or yourself experiencing this condition. Always use premium fuel; mtce is current, blah, blah. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need at least a few bars on your temp gauge before you really start putting your foot in it. If you drive it while everything is still super cold you'll experience some bucking and abnormal behavior... IE a high idle.. the ecm is basically doing everything it can in order to get everything warmed up which is why it behaves in this way. Vtec will not even engage if the temp is too low ... driving it conservatively until everything gets up to normal operating temperatures is the best idea.


