JDM D15B vs JDM B18C
I know this has been asked and i know most people will says go with the b series but i've heard alot about D-series smokin some of the competition so what kind of mods would be needed to make a d15b worth the talk i've heard and is it worth it. I read a post saying that the stock internals would never last as long as the b,h or k series so how long would it last anybody know and what kind of setup would last? here's my car, i also already have a d15b jdm and it goes pretty well just wanted to know if i should use it or not.
after you take off the kit, then worry bout the engine. Boosted D series can make some good power. There is a guy here that made 400hp on stock internals and 29psi, but i dont know how reliable that is. For about 3k, you can make about 220hp, at reasonbly low boost and have it still be reliable. Considering a b18C runs about 4k, and makes about 180hp at the wheels, you would be putting less money in a boosted D. But the B18 has a lot more potential.
yeah i can get a b18c with lsd (jdm ofcourse) for 3300 CDN and well the body kit is on my car so it stays where it is, i'm not saying that i don't like the way you guys make your cars look but i have my own ways just like everyone else so flame away. Im here to get info on what i should do, it will be most likely a daily driver for me so i wondering what has more potentional for my case. If you're here to flame then it's just because you can't answer my question. By the way thanks for the info it's greatly appreciated
Rice Rice baby!!
Yea, fast single cams are cool because it can put other motors to shame. Sometimes
So how much do you charge for a plane ticket?
Yea, fast single cams are cool because it can put other motors to shame. Sometimes
So how much do you charge for a plane ticket?
depends on your hp goal and financial status. Low boost D-series can make 160-180 for pretty cheap... I remember a while ago a guy made 190 on stock internals with 9 pounds. The rule of thumb is boosted D for cost efficiency and B series for "bling" factor. Low boost D and a B series are both reliable for DD.
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ok so what exaclty would i need to do to the d, like internal wise, can i leave it the way it is or should i spend the extra bucks on getting some good pistons and rods and get a good head job done to it with all new components. I have enough money for either one i was just wondering which is better.
internal wise for boosted D that you're looking at 200+hp/ more than 10lbs of boost is....
lower compression pistons (rehone to make it fit perfectly), resleeve the engine block, since you're taking the engine apart, replace your rod and crank bearings. You can replace your crankshaft too. You can get new rods, people generally buy eagle rods. You can port your IM and upgrade your valves. upgrading your camshaft is an option. ARP headstuds to help hold the block together and a new headgasket, you can get a 2-3 layer to lower your compression more.
If you don't want to resleeve, I read a long time ago about a build for a D series using Toyota Supra pistons with B series rods. Apparently the supra pistons are 75mm, like a stock y8 and most other D series so it drops in with machining done to fit the piston on the rod. This setup is pretty much to lower your compression and make your engine safe for up to... 15 lbs of boost without resleeving the engine. You'd still need the ARP headstuds and headgasket though.
lower compression pistons (rehone to make it fit perfectly), resleeve the engine block, since you're taking the engine apart, replace your rod and crank bearings. You can replace your crankshaft too. You can get new rods, people generally buy eagle rods. You can port your IM and upgrade your valves. upgrading your camshaft is an option. ARP headstuds to help hold the block together and a new headgasket, you can get a 2-3 layer to lower your compression more.
If you don't want to resleeve, I read a long time ago about a build for a D series using Toyota Supra pistons with B series rods. Apparently the supra pistons are 75mm, like a stock y8 and most other D series so it drops in with machining done to fit the piston on the rod. This setup is pretty much to lower your compression and make your engine safe for up to... 15 lbs of boost without resleeving the engine. You'd still need the ARP headstuds and headgasket though.
vitara pistons and ls rods would be a good choice in my opinion. You want a good daily driver thats boosted, YOU MUST GET IT TUNED.
here is a link that shows what boosted D's can do at variable boost levels.
http://turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?t=4140
read on man, and you shall learn alot.
here is a link that shows what boosted D's can do at variable boost levels.
http://turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?t=4140
read on man, and you shall learn alot.
thanks for the link but it's msot d16z6 i have the d15b but it gives me an idea of what i can be expecting
and well the only thing that would be coming off my car is the front bumper..it doesn't look good, i was thinking oem with a lip and keep the sideskirts and rear bumper the way it is. but that's off topic
and well the only thing that would be coming off my car is the front bumper..it doesn't look good, i was thinking oem with a lip and keep the sideskirts and rear bumper the way it is. but that's off topic
if you have time on your hands, beef up the D and add boost.
if you have money on your hands just get the b-series.
This is something that you probably won't read elsewhere, so I'm going to advise you before you get your hands dirty. When it comes down to boosting an engine to double it's power, you can't just slap **** together. When people on here say that they're going to do so much with so little. What they mean is that they are going to spend very little money, but put LOTS of time and energy into it.
If you're dedicated and have the DESIRE to learn, read up and do lots of research and turbo the D. If it's not something that you want to focus your thoughts/energy on. I'd just scoop up the B18C and call it a day.
When I say this, I am not trying to sound condescending at all. It's just sometimes I ask myself after spending 15+ hours a week reading/researching this honda nonsense.
if you have money on your hands just get the b-series.
This is something that you probably won't read elsewhere, so I'm going to advise you before you get your hands dirty. When it comes down to boosting an engine to double it's power, you can't just slap **** together. When people on here say that they're going to do so much with so little. What they mean is that they are going to spend very little money, but put LOTS of time and energy into it.
If you're dedicated and have the DESIRE to learn, read up and do lots of research and turbo the D. If it's not something that you want to focus your thoughts/energy on. I'd just scoop up the B18C and call it a day.
When I say this, I am not trying to sound condescending at all. It's just sometimes I ask myself after spending 15+ hours a week reading/researching this honda nonsense.
Bense, this i why i pm'ed you before, i spend roughly 5-6 hrs a day on the computer looking up and reading all kinds of faqs diy's and anything to do with hondas. I have plenty of time on my hand i work on my car every weekend for three days straight and would really like to take the time to take apart my d15b but i just wanted to find someone with experience in this field to help me as i go along. I have a haynes manual which gives the basics but they don't tell you everything you need to know down to the last detail, just the specifics. What would be a good place to start to look for good internals and a good turbo setup and what would you consider as a good investment?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timberland237 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a haynes manual which gives the basics but they don't tell you everything</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, and if you're considering tearing the motor down, definitely get a HELMS.. 100x more in depth
Haynes << Helms, any day
Yup, and if you're considering tearing the motor down, definitely get a HELMS.. 100x more in depth
Haynes << Helms, any day
the one thing about the JDM D15B is that its internals are unique to the motor. You can't source pistons and rods from D16z6's or d16y8's and so aftermarket support is a little shakey for the internals. Of course, you can get them custom made. When i was researching the motor a couple years ago, they still hadn't found an affordable way to strengthen the internals, but it seems like they recently found a way on d-series.org.
http://www.d-series.org/forums...53862
here is the link to someone who is doing it with tt rods and vitara pistons
http://www.d-series.org/forums...32597
here is the link to the JDM D15B FAQ. It has all the part numbers and a breakdown of parts that can be sourced from other d motors.
If you're looking to go FI with the d motor, turbod16.com and d-series.org are really good resources.
http://www.d-series.org/forums...53862
here is the link to someone who is doing it with tt rods and vitara pistons
http://www.d-series.org/forums...32597
here is the link to the JDM D15B FAQ. It has all the part numbers and a breakdown of parts that can be sourced from other d motors.
If you're looking to go FI with the d motor, turbod16.com and d-series.org are really good resources.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have time on your hands, beef up the D and add boost.
if you have money on your hands just get the b-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget he'll also need extra cash for all that engine building labor, or he'll need to be ready to do all the labor himself.
Turbo'd D engines are cool as ****, can run very well and make good power, but in the end it will not last as long as a stockish B18C1 with bolt-ons that will make roughly 150-165whp depending on that type of bolts-ons you add.
The easier set-up would certainly be the B swap. A monkey with a toolbox can swap an engine out, but it takes finesse to build an engine - especially one to last under turbo duties.
Researching for hours on the internet still won't prepare you for the actual build itself. I have personally built a D series engine for my own EF hatch, and when I compare that experience to the countless B swaps I've done I'll do swaps for people before I'll ever build an engine for someone. My engine that I built runs perfectly (it's not boosted though - just high CR A6 engine) and I'm sure I could build another, but it's time consuming, and you're always wondering "I hope the machine shop did everything right" or "I'm pretty sure I torqued those rod bolts down right" etc. etc.
With a swap you drop it in, work out whatever little kinks such as coolant leak here or there, check engine lights from a small wiring problem, etc. etc. It really isn't hard at all.
I have a lot of respect for people who build boosted engines, blow them up, and then just rebuild again and again, because I don't have the patience to do it like that. I'm lazy and I like dropping an engine in and leaving it for years and years, like my B18C5 swap - it's remained virtually unchanged for the past 5 years now.
if you have money on your hands just get the b-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget he'll also need extra cash for all that engine building labor, or he'll need to be ready to do all the labor himself.
Turbo'd D engines are cool as ****, can run very well and make good power, but in the end it will not last as long as a stockish B18C1 with bolt-ons that will make roughly 150-165whp depending on that type of bolts-ons you add.
The easier set-up would certainly be the B swap. A monkey with a toolbox can swap an engine out, but it takes finesse to build an engine - especially one to last under turbo duties.
Researching for hours on the internet still won't prepare you for the actual build itself. I have personally built a D series engine for my own EF hatch, and when I compare that experience to the countless B swaps I've done I'll do swaps for people before I'll ever build an engine for someone. My engine that I built runs perfectly (it's not boosted though - just high CR A6 engine) and I'm sure I could build another, but it's time consuming, and you're always wondering "I hope the machine shop did everything right" or "I'm pretty sure I torqued those rod bolts down right" etc. etc.
With a swap you drop it in, work out whatever little kinks such as coolant leak here or there, check engine lights from a small wiring problem, etc. etc. It really isn't hard at all.
I have a lot of respect for people who build boosted engines, blow them up, and then just rebuild again and again, because I don't have the patience to do it like that. I'm lazy and I like dropping an engine in and leaving it for years and years, like my B18C5 swap - it's remained virtually unchanged for the past 5 years now.
To play a little opposite..
I have never swapped an engine. I have rebuilt my B16A to take out the internals and to swap in SRP Pistons (9.9 CR) and Crower Rods. I put fresh ACL bearing in for the rods. I used a new OEM headgasket and ARP head bolts to ensure that the head does not lift.
I spent 5 weekends rebuilding and spending about 10 hours a day each weekend to finish the project. I had everything I needed, except a few tools I picked up at Sears, before I started the project.
The engine now has over 10K miles since the rebuild and has been daily driven since June. It was broken in on the dyno over a 2.5 hour period. It has seen 12 pounds of boost and has 248whp/213wtq.
If you get the Helms you will be much more confident about your build. Get the Helms, a torque wrench, and a buddy to help you out. It's fun and when your crank up the motor for the first time and it purrs, you will have a euphoric moment.
Then get your self a great tune by a reputable tuner.
Good luck
I have never swapped an engine. I have rebuilt my B16A to take out the internals and to swap in SRP Pistons (9.9 CR) and Crower Rods. I put fresh ACL bearing in for the rods. I used a new OEM headgasket and ARP head bolts to ensure that the head does not lift.
I spent 5 weekends rebuilding and spending about 10 hours a day each weekend to finish the project. I had everything I needed, except a few tools I picked up at Sears, before I started the project.
The engine now has over 10K miles since the rebuild and has been daily driven since June. It was broken in on the dyno over a 2.5 hour period. It has seen 12 pounds of boost and has 248whp/213wtq.
If you get the Helms you will be much more confident about your build. Get the Helms, a torque wrench, and a buddy to help you out. It's fun and when your crank up the motor for the first time and it purrs, you will have a euphoric moment.
Then get your self a great tune by a reputable tuner.
Good luck
If i were to get it sleeved and built for a turbo set up then would it last, i mean the money it would cost to build it up to last longer would probably be the same as buying just the b18c or maybe more. My original idea was to use the b18c gsr cause it would just be so much less hassle but then in the future if i ever want to build it i would have to spend more time and money to have that done. So in the end which way would be more effecient. I guess it's all comes down to just making a decision.
Seriously I think like Bense and B18C5-EH2 said it all depends if you have to time and patience. Seriously if you really want to turbo why not look at the Greddy kit! I think it gives you 6 lbs of boost and you could always upgrade in the future!





