I am considering turboing my hasport b16 90 si, but I have been told that a turbo kit won't fit with a HAsport mount kit because the motor is to far foward. Does anyone have any pics and information on this subject, ie what kits fit and what doesn't and what needs to be done to make them fit.

 

 

Dude we covered this one time already in the other topic. It may or may not clear. B-series swaps and turbo's on 4th gens are not bolts on affairs. There is going to be some custom fabing or some denting. Count on it. You think you HAsport kit is close? It uses 4 mounts right? Then it's farther back than the Place Racing kit. I've done swaps with HAsport and they give generous clearance versus the Place kit. 4th gens are great cars, but you hvae to put up with their flaws if you're gonna mod them. The biggest beef I have with the chassis is the lack of room in the engine bay as opposed to the newer gens.

If you want a worst case senario, goto the site in my sig and browse through the pics. You'll be able to make out some of the **** I had to do to get my LS + DRAG III kit to work.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=165522

If you forgot the link. I suggest going back and re-reading the entire post.

 

no HAsport does not use 4 mounts it uses 3 it positions the motor the same as the place kit does. If you have done swaps with the HAsport kit you should know that it uses 3 mounts instead of 4. All I am asking is has anyone ever done a turbo setup with a HAsport kit without having to dent or cut the chasis. Also if there is clearence issues is it having to do with the Xmember or the radiator?

 

I know that the crossmember needs to be modified to clear the downpipe from the turbo. There will be modifications needed to run the intercooler piping. You could always get the z10 crossmember kit and not have to worry about it.

 

I'm using a HASport kit for my GSR motor in my 91HB.
I've been doing quite a bit of side by side comparisons w/ a friend of mine's 00 Si with a Drag 3 kit. He has about as much space WITH A/C as I have WITHOUT it. The Drag manifold positions the compressor housing so close to the block that I don't think radiator clearance will be a problem. If it is, you can rig in a 92 Civic radiator or Z10 makes a crossmember that is designed to use the aforementioned radiator. I saw a EF one time with a Neon (!!) radiator to clear his turbo..it all depends on how creative you want to get.

Assuming we're using a Drag manifold with a T3/T4. the crossmember will require cutting/bending/cussing/welding or replacement to clear the downpipe. The radiator fan looks like it may need MINIMAL trimming if you want to run a filter for the compressor inlet (who wouldn't?). Intercooler piping will likely need to be a custom job. The piping that comes with kits could work with some creativity and a cutting wheel. Fitting a good-sized FMIC will be lots of fun.

 

Hasports mount kit actually places the engine farther back than the place racing kit, giving you about and inch or so more to work with. Any turbo kit on our cars is tight, but it shouldn't be any harder than any one else who has a turbo kit on a 4th gen.

 

I could have sworn that HAsport used a 4 mount system. Did they change this when they switched voer to the billet 3 mount system? Sorry i was misinformed.

Anyways, if It's located with the same positioning as a Place kit then I can help you out. It's not too easy, but it's doable. Now that all thats cleared up, you're gonna have to major clearance problems and a few smaller ones. I'll list off what I can remember. For the record I used a DRAG III kit for a 94+ LS.

1) First and foremost the Radiator: With a DRAG III kit I had about 1/4~1/8" of clearance with the rad in the stock position. No enough in my book, especially with engine torque. So the solution for this was too flatten out the lower radiator support with a hammer. I used a block of wood and an anvil and a 5lb hammer. I beat until I could slide the bottom on the rad, forward enough to give me about 1~1.5" whorth of clearance on the turbo. So now the rad sits somewhat liek this " / "

Yes this was the redneck way to it, and a 1/2 width 92-95 Radiator would have been better. I didn't have access to one, and heard that that rad is a bit taller than the 88-91 and some "mods" need to be done to make it fit.

2) Secondly the cross member. I had to remove it and beat a dent in it with a 5lb sledge hammer. Again, redneck....ON this mod it's straight foreward, dent until it clears . I've got about 1/4" past the DP for safe measure.

3) I/C piping: Hope you're not planning on keeping A/C if' you've got it b/c it's damn near impossible. I've seen it done though. Anyways...Coming off of the compressor you're gonna need to make a 90 as short as possible. A rubber coupling would be best for this. Tho i'm using the bends fromthe DRAG kit with the silicone connectors w/o fail. You're going to need to run the I/C piping just above the x-member or slightly infront(past the hump, look you'll see what I mean). either way it's gonna be tight using the stock componets. A tight 180 is gonna be needed at the hole where the A/C charge lines run though(the hole will need to be enlarged). Mount your I/C however you please. Mine is slightly offset to the passenger side. The mounting of your I/C will depend largely on the trim of your EF. The HF chassis a nothing for a front bumber support that allowed me to mount my I/C very close to the frame. Also my DRGA I/C was mounted with the inlets and outlets on the topside. I had brackets welded to the lower radiator support to let me mount it. The rest of the I/C piping can be custom or whatever gets it to your intake manifold. Somewhere in there you'll definately want a BOV. Piping --> TB I used a 2" rubber sewage pipe coupling. Works perfect.

** Z-10 would make life alot easier for this mod and the previous one. With a lot more rooom for the DP to clear and the abitlity to mount the newer style radiator it may be worth looking into if you've got an extra $500 buring a hole in your ***. **

a Tial wastegate will rub the hood. Mine wouldn't even shut until I trimmed the webbing and now it still rubs ever so slightly.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 9:18 PM 5/10/2002]

 

thanks for the info, it will be a great help in my new adventure into turbo's. I have bought a Drag 3 manifold and a Garrett T3. For the time being I am going to use a 1st gen DSM ic and I was hoping to use a tial wastegate. I am hoping the wastegate clears the hood because I have a JDM frontend on my hatch and the hood raises up in the middle instead of dropping. I also don't have power steering or ac so I hope this makes life easier. I am shooting for around 7psi on a stock 1st gen b16 an before I bolt everything on I am going to replace the water pump timing belt and the headgasket .

 

All this if you are using a manifold that allows A/C. Rev-hard has a no A/C manifold that would make piping alot easier.

 

I had no idea. I got it brand new for super cheap.

 

Hasport mounts place the motor further back and higher than the Place kit, about half an inch each way. Not sure where you got your info, but it is incorrect.

brian g