Got a 98 civic ex coupe, freshly swaped in complepletly rebuit LS motor. Check engine light comes on with a couple of codes. 17, 20, and 41. I know what 17 and 41 are, but i dont know what to look for or check for code 20::Electrical load detector):::: . Any info would be great. TIA

 

20 Electrical load detector

 

^^ beat me to it

 

yeah, i forgot to mention that i know what it is, just dont know what the h#ll to do about it. Thanks for the quick responses
Anybody else?????

 

i tried lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluelxfodo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, i guess i screwed you on that huh?
anybody got any freakin ideas for me?????????????????????????????????????

 

ttt
really need some help guys

 

start off by making sure all of your ground wires are making good connection. then if you have a multimeter, check the output of your alternator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdeemseerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start off by making sure all of your ground wires are making good connection. then if you have a multimeter, check the output of your alternator. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, i took it to autozone and had them test the battery/alternator with their tester and they said the alternator was only charging at 12v instead of the 13-14v it should be at. 2 days before that, i took the alternator up to them(out of the car) and they tested it and they said it worked like a champ, so i'm a little confused...The haynes book said that it could have something to do with anything that draws power, like headlights or fuel system and stuff like that. AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, if i didnt shave my head, i'd start pulling out my friggin hair
anybody else??????????????????

 

is everything working ok? such as lights etc..

 

it starts up, runs and drives(its misfiring on my #3 cyl, i think i have a fouled plug) and all the lights and radio work like they seem like they should be

 

bump

 

if your alternator checked out ok, then all thats left is the connection at your fusebox or the wire harness itself.. if you have a mutimeter check for continuity for all the wires going to your alternator. If you had a parasitic draw your battery would most likely be drained overnight. But it wouldnt hurt to do a parasitic draw test while your at it, which also requires a mutimeter.