engine dyno questions
i have two questions...
1st, does anyone know where to get 6-8" flexpipe?
2nd, for the shops with engine dynos, what are you doing for a bell housing on the b-series motors? were in the last steps of getting this thing fired up
1st, does anyone know where to get 6-8" flexpipe?
2nd, for the shops with engine dynos, what are you doing for a bell housing on the b-series motors? were in the last steps of getting this thing fired up
[QUOTE=redboost10]i have two questions...
1st, does anyone know where to get 6-8" flexpipe?
like exhaust flex pipe? if so, any truck repair will have it
1st, does anyone know where to get 6-8" flexpipe?
like exhaust flex pipe? if so, any truck repair will have it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redboost10 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> for the shops with engine dynos, what are you doing for a bell housing on the b-series motors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cut bellhousing/starter section off and made a 10" spacer/adapter to the dyno bellhousing mounting plate.
SuperFlow 901 engine dyno.
Cut bellhousing/starter section off and made a 10" spacer/adapter to the dyno bellhousing mounting plate.
SuperFlow 901 engine dyno.
Use a B-series front trans case half. Have an aluminum spacer block to mount that to the dyno. For H motors I use a H2B adapter. Nothing for the K's yet. Super Flow 901
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where are you, what kind of dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, your all over that like art is on the worm at the bottom of the bottle.
lol, your all over that like art is on the worm at the bottom of the bottle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol, your all over that like art is on the worm at the bottom of the bottle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or like Tony all over a RED light
j/k at least you're racing
lol, your all over that like art is on the worm at the bottom of the bottle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Or like Tony all over a RED light
j/k at least you're racing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How does the SF deal with the reverse rotation.Do you need to relocate the strain guage or re-plumb the brake?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most all except the early absorbers are ported for reverse rotation. The early versions are easy to modify. Does require straight blade rotor. If you remove the capacity adjustment the rotor can be seen without disassembly.
Yes, the dog-bone style strain gauge needs to be moved to other side and recalibrate.
Jim
Most all except the early absorbers are ported for reverse rotation. The early versions are easy to modify. Does require straight blade rotor. If you remove the capacity adjustment the rotor can be seen without disassembly.
Yes, the dog-bone style strain gauge needs to be moved to other side and recalibrate.
Jim
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