ok so earlier i was throwing some vtec codes, but ive re wired vtec and it works. After driving for like 5 mins or so i guess when the motor gets "hot" ill hit around 3k rpms and it will bog down or hesitate. kinda like the famous hesitation problem, but mine stays low on power. it doesnt jump back up after a few k rpms. all the way through vtec. even at lower rpms after its has started. it will stay like that until i shut the car off let it cool down and start her back up. then it starts all over again itll run decent until it gets "hot" then it begins...

now i drove it last night after rewiring vtec and it felt good b4 the hesitation/bogging hit, but today when i drove it the whole time it felt sluggish then worse when the hesitation/bogging hit. any ideas?

oh and my idle is weird usually when i rev it up a little when it drops it will drop lower and feel like its bout to die then come back steady.


Modified by M2B4 at 12:03 AM 11/7/2006

 

p28 chipped ecu and a new dizzy

 

bump cuz i have hesitation/bogging in my jdm h22a

 

bump cuz i also have hesitation/bogging in my jdm h22.

 

i need help on this too

 

It's probably a fuel issue. Check your fuel filter, pump, & injectors.

Edit: After a little more thought, if it's a fuel issue, it's got to be the pump starting give out on you from old age & heating up too much. If it's a fairly new pump, then it must be something else.


Modified by 2lude4u at 11:26 AM 11/8/2006

 

ok so here it goes....

my 98 sh was doing the same thing first i'll give a list of possible problems then i'll go into depth about mine.

timing
a/f ratio
ignition system
transmission
ecu
oil pressure

In my situation i narrowed it down to transmission
(the car was originally auto then converted to 5 spd. by previous owner - don't get me started on how crappy of a conversion it was)
the funny idle thing in my case was the clutch slipping so i swapped for a comp. clutch stage 2 and lightened flywheel. when i did this the clutch wouldn't fully engage so i swapped the master and slave cylinders changed the lines and fittings.
also had to adjust the linkage from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder.

all the work was done by the guys at VELOCITY TRENDS in jacksonville florida.
jim,mike,brian,adam,steve, you guys are awesome thanks for all the help in a bad situation.

anyways hope that was of some help

 

im pretty sure it aint the tranny. i got a new o2 coming ima test that

 

i dunno if you are on a 4th gen or what, but i created an old hesitation/bogging thread a while back with a lot of possible solutions/problem solving... for me it ended up being timing... you're problem sounds very similar to mine with the performance good when cold but when heated up it performs worse... i'd definetley throw a timing light on and check where it's at.

best of luck.


p.s. the old post is here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1090957

 

M2B4... keep us posted on that o2 sensor. let me know if it worked.

 

ill keep yall posted on the o2 it will be here 2 morrow. but i had 4 people look at the timing b4 the motor was put in. everyone said it was fine if its still acting up after o2 i guess ima check timing.

 

i was having the same problem with the hesitation and then replaced the o2 and it didnt work. my timing was off 2 teeth on the cam side and i had that fixed and it still does it....

 

oh i'm not talking cam gear - motor off timing etc (altho obviously that is important too) i'm talking after your motor is installed, and you run the car, with the service connector jumped (important!)- and you move the dizzy fore and aft, to set up your 15deg +/- 2 deg timing...

our situation is similar in that a cold car would run better than warmed up, but our situations differ in the way that i didnt' bog all the way to redline, my car would seem to pick up again after the 2.5 - 3k bogg.


also no one in this thread has mentioned knock sensor yet either (a good reason a lot of people recommend the p28) - but that can pull timing too, if it's unhappy.

 

ok so o2 hasnt come yet. i got a timing light gunna work on that ignition timing. but i was driving it 2 day just to test it out and it started dying. when id get 2 a stop it would just die...any ideas? culd this tie in hand and hand with bad o2 or bad ignition timing?

 

well... i had a similar bogging issue myself when i was running my jdm p13, i switched to a chipped and tuned p28 and the bogging went away for good. i believe that my problem was the knock sensor like someone else had suggested. I have a 94 prelude S with a Jdm h22 in it.

 

ok, isnt a p28 what comes in a 93-95 civic ex? and what chip is everyone using? what else is involved?

 

How old are the spark plug wires, and plugs?

That can cause you car to bog and hesitate as well.

Get ya some new oem wires if yours are old.

 

wires/plugs/rotor brand new

 

ok i have a f20b not really in a prelude but in a eg when i did the tranformation i had the same problem in the bigening.because the motor was sitting around for probably a year at a yard that the iacv(sorry if i am wrong with the name but the sensor that detect intake temp where water runs through it) was choked with particals so when the engine got hot it was just down hill like no power when i fixed that it was gone.ever since then it runs good. i am at work so i cant remember correct name for it but you guys know what i am talking about

 

ok so heres an update. workedon the ignition timing. well turns out that was it. or a big part of it. it was retarded all the way...so got it set on 15 and it runs with alot more power and didnt go into ne hesitation or anything. ive never driven a 200hp car so i dont know if its at 100%...yet to replace o2 so ima still c what that does.

 

sweet - sounded familiar to my sitch - so i'm glad that cleared up some of your probs,....

a couple months after i fixed my timing (back when i was having hesitation probs), my 02 sensor went aswell... replacing it greatly helped gas mileage, but i didn't really notice too much change in performance.... I remember wondering at the time if was part of the boggy problem tho....

 

only thing im mainly wondering about now is if its at full potential. no one i know have a 200hp car so i dont know what its supposed to "feel" like so i dont know if there still problems mabye if someone had a vid of the spedo when they were taking off i could record mine and play em next 2 each other see if its close lol

edit: but now i need a clutch....... just got the motor in why didnt i change it while it was out...

 

or just go to the track or something... run the 1/4 mile

 

track closed....

 

i would say the "bogg" issue would be solved if the acceleration was smooth and consistant as the car accelerates without a soft spot in the pedal, or a LUL in the acceleration etc...

if your car still feels SLOW overall (for a 200hp car) it could be a number of other things... like a gawd awful bodykit hanging out in the wind, and a oversized sub box made of 5/8 ply in the trunk (not saying you have that... but some people...) ludes are heavy cars, but my 200hp lude feels quite quick and then when vtec hits it's even better

when i first bought a cosmo short ram off of ebay, i still had a bit of bogg or appreciable loss in low end torque at some rpm settings - changing the filter to a K and N helped out... there's just so many variables you know? but if you got clean fuel, clean air, and properly timed (and good) spark - (on a reasonably kept engine) you should be golden. make sure you run on 91+

perhaps your clutch is slipping?