was wondering if any tried changing the sub to a JL Audio dual voice coil sub yet. And did you need to add a separate amp? if not did it bump?. And did the sub fit? Any input would be great.......

 

you mean, replace the OEM 8" sub for a JL Audio 8" sub?

 

if it's the same size, i think it should fit. now if you're getting a new sub might as well get a new amp.

 

well i was hoping the stock amp would push the jl enough to where i dont have to get a new amp. Was wondering if anyone has tried it yet or not thats all ;p

 

The OHMS are different. So, I don't think it will work

 

dude, you honestly think it's possible that a factory amp will make an 8ohm subwoofer bump? LOL, no ****** way.

btw, you got your hands on a JL IB4??? Those are highly coveted from what I understand (they are discontinued). Now do yourself a favor and give it some power.

If you're talking about a JL speaker other than the infinite-baffle ones, then no, it will not work in the stock location.

 

i dont know if ur the same person asking bout the custom work spkrs n e ways its best to get enclosers with new amp n wiring .... go 2 circiut city .

 

DO NOT REPLACE YOUR STOCK SUB. That woofer was designed for free-air. Meaning it uses your trunk as the enclosure. 99% of aftermarket sunbs are not designed for this kind of use. Most of them now are for small-box applications because everyone wants to keep trunk space nowadays. Anyway the stock amp wouldn't have enough ***** to push any sub more powerful. If I were you, just get a small box, w sub and an amp. Hook your amp using the high input, so you can still retain your factory system. You will have to splice into the rear speaker wires to use as a signal. And just route your power and ground just like you would a regular sound system install. Now you'll have 2 subs

 

This isn't very good advice, though you are correct that you shouldn't just slap any 8" sub into the factory location and power it with the factory amp.

1. You just need a free-air (infinite baffle, IB) subwoofer

2. If you tap into the rear speaker wires, you'll lose control of the sub from the h/u. It would be better to tap into the sub speaker wires and...

3. disconnect the factory sub.

I plan on putting a free-air 8" sub in the factory location, amplifying it properly (150-200w), and deadening the rear deck.

To each his own, but it CAN be done if you want to go to the trouble of doing it right (finding a free-air sub, deadening rear deck, mounting speaker properly, etc). It doesn't sound like too much work to me but I guess I'll find out.

You can't argue with the box in the trunk option, but IMO you should tap into the sub wires and disconnect the factory sub. It's not going to be contributing anything if you have something good back there, and you might as well retain control of your sub from your h/u.