i've been searching and reading about this but i keep getting mixed answers about this particular subject. i know you guys are probably tired of this but the other posts weren't exactly answering the questions i have in mind.

so my engine has 173k miles on it. im pretty sure the dude i bougth this baby off of drove her pretty hard. the engine is in not so good shape. got 10 psi in cylinder 4. got burnt valves and possible cylinder damage. now i've been looking around and of course im tight on money. im not going for the best out there. just enough to hold me off right now. actually im loaning money from my dad right now and he's being itchy about it. the shop said it would cost around 2500 to repair the whole thing so i considered replacing it. i've read other posts on this subject and it seems like a lot of ppl lean towards the rebuild. i've looked at a lot of motor sites and either they dont have the h22a4 or they're tryna rip me off. i found one but they're out of stock, go figure.. i don't have the experience or knowledge to reassemble this myself. so here's my question.

should i go for a replacement engine - h22a4? or jdm h22a? if jdm then how much more would it cost to convert to odb2? what else would i need to make this work? smog legal? good places to buy from? i know hmo is pretty good but they don't have my year for jdm h22a. i dont mind but my dad doesn't like "illegal".

or

should i rebuild the motor - if the valves are burnt and the cylinder might be damage, could i not just replace the valves and the block?

keep in mind that price is a BIG factor. i just want the best bang for your buck ratio.
planning on getting it sleeved later when i actually get some cash. anyone know what's good? price?

please ANY 2 cents would be greatly appreciated.
i miss driving my baby around. TT.TT

sorry about the long post.

 

Buy an older H22 so it will be closed deck instead of open like the h22a4 they are a lot tougher.

 

h22 as in.. h22a? or h22a4? but is it not illegal to throw in a motor that's older than the chassis? thanks a lot.


Modified by _BB6 at 12:29 PM 11/6/2006

 

H22a. Its the JDM H22. From the older preludes. And if you notice here in H-T about 90% of the people have illegal set-ups, so we laught at the law.

 

if you have the money, i would say rebuild it with aftermarket internals, but if your on a budget you can pick up a jdm block for under 1500

 

hmm. the shop im getting my work done at are really itchy about it though. i wouldn't mind having the jdm with the odb2 conversion as long as i can pass smog but those dicks at the shop are persistent. they're giving me a good deal on the swap so i can't argue. anybody else?

 

I have a JDM H22A that Im currently getting rebuilt since I was in an accident and my axle snapped causing it to destroy my oil pump. After paying my builder $150 to dissassemble my block to see if it was still good, I found out that there was no further internal damage and just had to replace all bearings and seals totalling maybe $200. Im about to send my head to get rebuilt and resurfaced for $400. So all together Im spending $750 on something that in my opinion is better than just buying another H22 which is what I almost did which would have been $1200. If I were you, I would get estimates from another shop and see what they would charge for a rebuild vs a swap. Im also assuming that if you rebuild your H22a4, it should still pass smog right?

 

take off the head and replace the valves.(not that expencive)
pray that your cylinder walls are in great shape. if they are then mill the head and slap it back togeather.
all under $500

 

sleeves are under $900 camp 1320
h engines are 800+

 

H22a1 is USDM comes in 93-96 Si vtec preludes. I didn't know that was illegal. O well so speeding and street racing but I still do it.

 

thanks guys.
really appreciate the help.
so say there is damage to the cylinders.
should i replace it with another h22a4 block or jdm?
if that's possible.
im just tryna see what my options are weigh which would be the best not the mention the cheapest.
oh yeah what kind of metal do they use for sleeving?
i read about the h series and frm.
should i stick with iron?
im not planning to boost but i'd like to get them sleeved later on just to reinforce the strength of the cylinders.
thanks in advanced.

anybody else?


Modified by _BB6 at 9:46 PM 11/6/2006

 

bump it.

 

personally i would go wit a jdm h22a long block for 1500 bucks, and swap it in urself, thats what i did. i mean your motor has 170k miles on it. time for something new anyways.

 

could you show me where you found this 1500 figure.
i would go for that anyday if the years matched up.
my dad wont let me buy an older motor since it's "illegal".
gay but can't argue.
since it's "his" car.
it's just on permanent loan to me.
haha funny guy.. i know.

 

anyone?
could use some more help.

 

just called the shop and the tech said it would be wiser to just go thru with the swap because of all the parts needed to be replaced because the engine is gettin' pretty old w/ 173k miles. i know it's not that old for a honda but the prev. owner beat the shiet out of it. he said even if i just swapped out necessary parts it could still burning oil/leak/smoke/ruin my cat/etc. any takes on this? if possible i'd rather just buy another h22a4. the least about of hassle but all the sites i've been at so far either are out of h22a4's, have older jdm h22a's, or have package deals that range up to 3k. i only want the motor. hmo doesn't what i need. sadly. anybody? thanks in advanced.

 

I'd say put in some type-s pistions new rings and a oil pump as far as the block goes since your not planning on boosting it,and for the head put in some stainless valves and call it a day.

Just my 2cents

 

wouldn't that just end up costing more than just swapping out my motor.
as of right now i just want the cheapest and easiest way to get my car runnin later.
since this is my dad's money.
he wants the cheapest.
i'm plannin' on throwing in new sleevs and pistons when i get the money later on.

 

Stock rebuild. Cheapest, no frills, will feel like a new motor, and will last you forever

 

details would help.
thanks.

 

First I would tear it apart then diagnose the engine, you can do that yourself, even with no experiance, or could post up pictures on here to have others help you decide. Then if nothing was wrong other than just worn out rings, I would do a stock rebuild. How do you know you have burnt valves? and what excatly is your definition of a burnt valve.

The stock rebuild = cheapest, not only that, but then you know the engine is better off than some other swapped engine with xx,xxx amount of miles. Not to mention the fact it will be legal. It will also be faster(faster as in, up and running, actually I guess it would be faster than what you got currently especially if your running 10psi in one cycl. ), unless ofcourse they can pick up your engine from the junkyard that day and get to work on it.

Whether it's been drove hard or not, doesnt necessarly mean its in bad condition. As far as sleeving it goes, thats absolutely useless, theres no need to reinforce the strength of the cyclinders, unless you plan on turbo'in the car or running really high compression ratio pistons.

Do a stock rebuild cheapest plain and simple. Unless those valves are bent, melted, or caused head damage( which may not be there fault), reuse those also. No need for new ones.

 

i don't know how many but some of the valves are damaged for sure.
according to what my tech said.
im not really sure how since he didn't even open the thing up.
im not really sure what exactly he did..
but if there are things i can do myself.. even with my low amount of experience,
i would most definately like to do as much as possible.
every penny counts for my dad.
yeah and i really dont like the fact that i'd have to fork over like 200
just for the shop to take a look at the engine. screw that shiet.
seems like i'll need to find me a helms soon.
i'd like to open her up to see what's exactly going on.
could this be done with reg tools?
cuz my garage ain't no shop.
thanks a lot guys.

i'll have pictures posted as soon as i manage to open her up.
gawd i miss driving my lude.

 

So you're saying you had 10Psi compressio nin cylinder 4? I would get a leakdown test performed to get a better idea for what part needs work.

listen to where air is coming out, if you hear hissing from the throttle body, you'll need new valves, if you hear hissing from the dipstick tube, you'll be in for some bottom end work (new rings, possibly honing, thats IF you can hone a FRM cylinder).

Going back with stock parts is definitely the best bet. If your cylinders are scored, you should look into getting mid-sleeves, or sleeve liners, darton makes a set. They basically replace just a portion of the cylinder, it is significantly cheaper, and if you're not running any boost, and driving like a normal person, they will hold up just fine.

With limited experience, I would hold off from doing the work yourself, and just take it to the shop to take care of. A basic stock rebuild at a compotent shop with reasonable prices will take about a week, and $2500-$3000, the price will vary depending on what parts need replaced, machined etc.

 

h22 and going for 900+ .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">h22 and going for 900+ . </TD></TR></TABLE>

what?