hi guys whats going on i need help im building a race car its a 95 hatchback with an ls vtec and i want to road race and drag race it . My question is what would be a good turbo size to do both

 

bump please help

 

For drag racing tubo is good. If you are going to road race it's bad. For road racing you don't want to run any tubo at all, unless the car came with an OEM one.

Reasons
1) cost.
2) no real classes to run in. It's not legal in most road race classes.
3) did I say cost?

 

first off... you need to read the forum guidlines..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=353425

here is the part I think you forgot to read!
- No bumping. Makes a mess out of things. If the topic isnt active enough to stay on the first page, it probably wasnt that interesting anyways.

second you only waited 3 hours for a reply.. man you’re impatient.

Like Mr. hondaPrelude said turbo is going to make it hard to find a class for your car. well there is Honda challenge HU ..

Are you thinking of doing lapping/track days or w2w racing? either way I say stay NA

 

*Waiting for Chris F to chime in...*

 

^^ i'll just go ahead and quote him

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was just wondering if there was anybody out there with turbo integras runing them on a track or laping days, and what isues they might have had such as over heating or break fade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...



I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol best reply ever! here's the thread you would've found by searching...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1771767

 

He also melted the paint on his hood

Like I said. Cost is just too high to build a turbo that can take 30min or more on a race track without something braking or melting. Most turbos can work well for daily driving and drag runs but road racing is 100x harder on the parts. Even if you do it right and spend all the $$, you will have no one to race against.

Road Racing cost enough as it is ($600 to $1200 per race weekend, out of your own pocket!) and most racers like to run in a class that does not allow boost or even crazy NA set ups. Cost less to build the car and maintain the car. The most popular entry level (amateur/semi-pro) classes basically only allow I/H/E for the engine. However, this dose not mean the cars are slow. 100+ MPH top speed is still the norm, and well over 1g in the turns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He also melted the paint on his hood

Like I said. Cost is just too high to build a turbo that can take 30min or more on a race track without something braking or melting. Most turbos can work well for daily driving and drag runs but road racing is 100x harder on the parts. Even if you do it right and spend all the $$, you will have no one to race against.

Road Racing cost enough as it is ($600 to $1200 per race weekend, out of your own pocket!) and most racers like to run in a class that does not allow boost or even crazy NA set ups. Cost less to build the car and maintain the car. The most popular entry level (amateur/semi-pro) classes basically only allow I/H/E for the engine. However, this dose not mean the cars are slow. 100+ MPH top speed is still the norm, and well over 1g in the turns.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. I spent two seasons and plenty of $$$ working out the issues with road racing a turbo car, and it sure is fun to go fast and blow most everyone's doors off, but the reality of road racing a turbo car is that you're always going to have to deal with heat soak, going through tires fast, and wearing out or breaking parts more often. There's also little to no competition in most areas. There will be anywhere from 0 to 2 other HU cars in my region next season. If I wanted to go back to SCCA, I could be quite competitive in our region's ITE-U class, but that's just a regional class, and half of their season seems to be national events anymore, so I'd miss out. I also can't stand a lot of our SCCA region's BS/attitude problem (Time Trials were the only events where that I didn't encounter that), which is why I was so happy to get with NASA when they came to town.

My plan for next season is looking like it's going to be a 944-spec car... it will be a nice change of pace, cheaper than racing a HU or SU car, competitive, challenging, and fun. Not to mention the whole joy of being a Porsche snob and no longer having to deal with those "tuners" and other people from the "import scene".

I plan to keep my turbo Integra as a fun car for Time Trials, open track days, and maybe an occasional appearance in HU (when there's some competition), but I just don't see it being my primary race car in the future. 944-spec just makes a lot more sense for me, both financially and as a driver. If I were to build another Honda as my primary race car, it would most likely be an H4 or maybe H3 car.

 

Good info, but if you are like me, and aren't doing any true racing, just track days.... then i say go for it. I ran a turbo d-series for four events this summer, at 15 psi, bone stock block. My biggest issue was brakes, but that can be fixed by upping the size, or running slicks would of helped too.

If you are building the car more for tack use, then a slightly larger turbo will be better. Lag time no the street will be more noticeable, but you'll want more top end power. I ran a .48/.60 and could come out of most corners in third gear, if i wanted to go faster then i grabbed second. You can actually save some parts by using third more, keeping the rpm's down some. My friend has a wrx sti turbo on his b-series. I recommend that turbo, it spools up quick, and is good to like 300 hp i believe. Pretty easy to come by too.

I had fun running my car N/A, and it would be easier, but the cars i could play with turboed makes it way more fun. Only problem i had all summer was overflow of the catch can. Otherwise the motor took it like a champ.

 

The question you should ask is how competitive do you want to be?

Anything with swap motors (with significant HP change) IMO is costly and uncompetititve. If you want the competition pick a class and find the cars that are reliable in that field.

*****
With that aside I'm running a turbo setup racing under IT/GT.

Cost to build - it is no more cheaper than running a K swap or building a motor all the way. The fun factor is there and if you look atthe HP well it's the cheapest form

Cost to repair: This the pain full part. Which drives the cost but really that the same too if you built a motor. Don't get hit or hit the wall