hello

i have an eg si with gsr.. i recently installed the skunk2 camber kit with blox rear and had it aligned.. the rear came out ok but the front is still 1.2 - 1.4 out of camber

the car came with neuspeed springs (green) and oe shocks.. this thing sits pretty low.. looks like a 2 inch drop.. i have rota slip 15s and it tucks the front tires in almost a 1/4 inch.. when it was on the alignment rack i lifted the front a little and it went into camber correctly.. i lifted it maybe half an inch..

im wonderous if i toss on some sportlines if it would come out ok? what set ups are you hatch toting fools having luck with???

im thinking go with non adjustable kyb gr-2's and sportlines..adjustments always blow out anyway then sit uneven..

any info or advise would be appreciated... i had no issues with the same set up on my ef-9 (kyb +gr-2s)and it sat and handled fine... im wonderous if it will be the same for my eg?


thanks fellas

 

i doubt you only have a 2" drop... i think you're over 3" if you're tucking...

and the skunk2 kit max's out at 3" drop.

 

1.2 - 1.4 out of camber? What is the "correct" camber for a radically lowered car (tucking tire is "slammed", "dumped", or however else you wish to describe it)? The ride height, spring rates, roll center, center of gravity, blah, blah are ALL outside of factory specifications now, why should camber be set to a setting that was designed for completely different suspension parameters?

If you only have 2.2 - 2.4 in the front (I believe the fronts should be -1.0* stock give or take), then you probably have perfect camber. Whats the point of all these suspension mods, a rouger ride, and decreased suspension travel, if you aren't going to make use of the car in corners? And if you are going to push the car in corners, then you might need even more camber.

I'm running -4.0* in the front of mine, because as I moved from stock, to lowered (-2.2*), to lowered with an Ingalls UCA sliding bushing camber kit (-2.5*), to SPC UCAs (-2.8*), the car just kept turning better and better. Last alignment, I asked for -3.3* and ended up with -4.0* (stupid Sears tech), and I've just left it since.

And before anyone tells me how absurd that much camber is, mine is a daily driver / auto-x / HPDE car, and I wouldn't recommend such extremes for a strictly street car. The RT-615 Azenis seem to really like the camber during auto-x though.

 

wtf? if you lower your car you still need to align the car to the same factory specs. you should ideally have close to 0 deg camber in front and around -1 (or -.5) in the back.

the only time you want a different spec is if your track racing the car because you don't care about your tires getting eaten up. you want the best handling.

the more negative camber you have in the fronts, the quicker the insides of your front tires will wear. lowering your car shouldn't effect how the tires should be oriented to the road surface.