If you had 2k to drop on a stereo, what setup would you guys use. List subs, amps, speakers, etc. Trying to get back into the audio world. I love music but my car lacks QUALITY sound.

 

what car, what kind of skills do you have, how much bass do you what, what kind of trunk/cargo space are you willing to give up?

 

Alpine CDA7998 (time delay, adjustible XOs with slopes, 1.3DIN Face, 5 band parametric EQ)
JL Audio XR650CSi (Made in Germany, great midbass, revealing yet not BRIGHT)
JL Audio 300/2 & 500/1 (they're designed by campbell and macmillian, formerly of Xtant and PPI)
JL10W7 (in a sealed box.. because it's so clean but can pound too)

If I was shopping for a new gear, this is what I would get.




[Modified by dc24me, 12:09 AM 5/8/2002]

 

I'd get an eclipse head unit. Some Boston Acoustics components would be nice too, my first choice are the JLs. Only get one of those W7s. Better to have one and enough power than two with not enough power.

 

Alpine 7894 HU
Alpine 6disk Ai net changer
Alpine Type-R 6.5 component speakers
Alpine Type R 6.5 coaxial
Infinity Perfect 12.1

and you'll have $700 left for amps and install. You won't win any IASCA events but you'll have a very clean sounding system.

just did this in my gf's car.

-r.

 

How are IASCA events judged? How do they determine the watt classes? I know they use to do it based on 4 ohm rated power which is why Phoenix Gold and Orion kicked *** back then because they rated amps at 35x2 but they really pushed like 500+. Is it still like that?

 

In IASCA Street Competitions you are judged on the following:

1. If you are a member and display a logo
2. Tonal Accuracy
3. Soundstage
4. Imaging
5. Sound Linearity
6. Absense of Noise
7. System Safety
8. Installation Integrity
9. Vehicle Presentation
10. RTA Testing
11. SPL Testing

And that's about it. Classes are broken up by total system power. Meaning whatever you have connected to a speaker gets added (including headunits). They add up the total continuous power (RMS) at an input voltage of +12VDC, at 4 ohm loads. The big break is at 600W - 1-600 or 601+. I will be in 601+ w/1350W this year.

Yes, amps like a PG titanium would be considered cheater amps as they can run a 1 ohm stereo load, and are rated rediculously low at 12V. The old HCCA amps from orion...25 x 2 @ 4 ohm 500 x 1 @ 1/2 ohm or somethign would still be classified as a 50W amp.


[Modified by rcurley55, 8:37 PM 5/8/2002]

 

All bought on Ebay except:
Nakamichi 6 disc in dash player $450
a/d/s 235is component front speakers w/crossovers $250
a/d/s A6im rear speakers w/crossovers $150
12 inch JL sub w/ enclosure $125
a/d/s 830x 300 watt amp w/crossovers and subwoofer controller $225
AC501 a/d/s subwoofer controller and extension din plug $150
Monster Cables/fuses/wires/distribution blocks $150
Installed em myself or pay someone $250 for installation
$250 left over

 

2 more questions. What is RTA testing and what would be a good cd to test the stereo on before a competion.

 

An RTA stands for Real Time Analyzer. If you use an RTA, then play pink noise through your system, it will pick up and display what levels your system plays all audible frequencies at (not all, but a selection of them). Now the best systems make smooth transitions between the selected frequencies that a RTA measures (about 31 bands over 1/3rd of an octave - I believe).

Now, a system that plays flat on an RTA normally sounds crappy, so many competitors (like me) dedicated one EQ just to RTA, and another (or a pair) to SQ.

The best CD's to use would be the Competition CD put out by IASCA every year. Others with very high quality recordings and mastering would be the demo cd's put out by Focal and Diamond along with the Autosound 2000 cd's and anything recorded by Telarc or Sheffield Labs.