Would like to get into the 13s with my 97. Best way to get there?
A 13.99 car would make me very happy. That would have to be on street tires (which are near new Kumho 711s on 23.5 lb 17" rims) and full interior minus my spare..
My current mods are: Mugen header, Weapon R intake, Greddy catback.
Turbocharging wouldnt be so bad...It'd probably put me even lower than 13.9 on a low boost setup. I'd really like to retain P/S and A/C...I mean this car is a bit more luxurious (if you can even say that about a Honda) compared to say an EH hatch...so if I didnt want my amenities I'd just pick up a hatch and go much faster.
I've seen people putting down good numbers with chipped p28s, or even V-AFCs. Unfortunately, they're either JDM H22s, or H22s in hatches so its hard to guesstimate what it'd do for my car.
I suppose I could sell my header for an easy $600 and that could fund some turbo parts. But I know the Mugen header puts down some nice power.
If I were to go N/A...it would NOT be a full N/A build. I would be happy with my 13 second set-up for a while...but would absolutely not completely build it up that way. If I decided to keep the car and wanted to go faster (which is inevitable) I'd go turbo.
Basically, I'm looking for suggestions on what would get me to the times I want. Estimated prices of said mods would be nice, and keep in mind I'd be willing to sell the header to fund a turbo build. Mugen means nothing to me.
Should also mention its a base 5MT and I do not want to use Nitrous.
My current mods are: Mugen header, Weapon R intake, Greddy catback.
Turbocharging wouldnt be so bad...It'd probably put me even lower than 13.9 on a low boost setup. I'd really like to retain P/S and A/C...I mean this car is a bit more luxurious (if you can even say that about a Honda) compared to say an EH hatch...so if I didnt want my amenities I'd just pick up a hatch and go much faster.
I've seen people putting down good numbers with chipped p28s, or even V-AFCs. Unfortunately, they're either JDM H22s, or H22s in hatches so its hard to guesstimate what it'd do for my car.
I suppose I could sell my header for an easy $600 and that could fund some turbo parts. But I know the Mugen header puts down some nice power.
If I were to go N/A...it would NOT be a full N/A build. I would be happy with my 13 second set-up for a while...but would absolutely not completely build it up that way. If I decided to keep the car and wanted to go faster (which is inevitable) I'd go turbo.
Basically, I'm looking for suggestions on what would get me to the times I want. Estimated prices of said mods would be nice, and keep in mind I'd be willing to sell the header to fund a turbo build. Mugen means nothing to me.
Should also mention its a base 5MT and I do not want to use Nitrous.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hpwdhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nos should get you were you want to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I forgot to mention I dont want to use nitrous.
Sorry, I forgot to mention I dont want to use nitrous.
I am at the same point as you are minus the header and the 5speed
. I would also be looking at this type of setup. Truely if you just work on ur launches and get light 16" wheels (even though u said 17") I think you can make it. It really comes down to the driver at things like this. Good luck bud
. I would also be looking at this type of setup. Truely if you just work on ur launches and get light 16" wheels (even though u said 17") I think you can make it. It really comes down to the driver at things like this. Good luck bud
First - get new tires. I have these only my 88 and... they are **** poor. You won't recieve any traction whatsoever. Have you EVEN took your car out to ride? It wont hold any traction on the track, and barely from strong take offs. Yes, they're cheap priced, but they're also cheaply made. I'm keeping though cause my car won't be pulling any 13.99 any time soon.
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to get there on street tires and full interior you will need a fully built motor if you went the NA route. But power isnt everything to getting a good time. i would invest in a traction bar and a nice suspension as well as a smaller wheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">itb's would surely help... pm me i have a set...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, technically nearly any mod would help...it doesnt mean that it would benefit me for my goal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think your probaly almost there with a godlike run and maybe a couple more bolt-ons and some turning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have got to more research on tuning, but from what I see people are making great power with a OBD1 conversion and a chipped and tuned p28.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Montx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First - get new tires. I have these only my 88 and... they are **** poor. You won't recieve any traction whatsoever. Have you EVEN took your car out to ride? It wont hold any traction on the track, and barely from strong take offs. Yes, they're cheap priced, but they're also cheaply made. I'm keeping though cause my car won't be pulling any 13.99 any time soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're asking if I've tracked the car, the answer is no. These tires will spin all the way through first by just flooring it...I know cold they're bad. Once they're warm they perform a lot better...but still not great.
I would probably end up investing in a pair of drag radials.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get there on street tires and full interior you will need a fully built motor if you went the NA route. But power isnt everything to getting a good time. i would invest in a traction bar and a nice suspension as well as a smaller wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree with the need to have a fully built engine to reach my goal. I basically need to gain a second. I'm aware that putting the power to the ground is nearly as big as producing the numbers. I've seen really good times on here with relatively minimal mods, but for 4th gen preludes and JDM H22s.
Well, technically nearly any mod would help...it doesnt mean that it would benefit me for my goal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think your probaly almost there with a godlike run and maybe a couple more bolt-ons and some turning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have got to more research on tuning, but from what I see people are making great power with a OBD1 conversion and a chipped and tuned p28.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Montx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First - get new tires. I have these only my 88 and... they are **** poor. You won't recieve any traction whatsoever. Have you EVEN took your car out to ride? It wont hold any traction on the track, and barely from strong take offs. Yes, they're cheap priced, but they're also cheaply made. I'm keeping though cause my car won't be pulling any 13.99 any time soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're asking if I've tracked the car, the answer is no. These tires will spin all the way through first by just flooring it...I know cold they're bad. Once they're warm they perform a lot better...but still not great.
I would probably end up investing in a pair of drag radials.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get there on street tires and full interior you will need a fully built motor if you went the NA route. But power isnt everything to getting a good time. i would invest in a traction bar and a nice suspension as well as a smaller wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree with the need to have a fully built engine to reach my goal. I basically need to gain a second. I'm aware that putting the power to the ground is nearly as big as producing the numbers. I've seen really good times on here with relatively minimal mods, but for 4th gen preludes and JDM H22s.
I mean how much do you have to spend? I'd say get pullies, hi-flow cat and tune. As suggested invest in suspension and maybe lsd if you have the cash. It really all depends on how much you have, you can also drop in type-s pistons. etc. etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowBB4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i mean from what i kno the A4 is NOT the motor to be boosting...naturaly assperated id say is the way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not the motor to be boosting high PSI with at least...I know if you want to do anything decent you need to sleeve...but for what i'm looking for, a low boost setup would be ideal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I mean how much do you have to spend? I'd say get pullies, hi-flow cat and tune. As suggested invest in suspension and maybe lsd if you have the cash. It really all depends on how much you have, you can also drop in type-s pistons. etc. etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing right now. This is me doing my research. My car is currently for sale, but i'm not really pushing for a sale. I'd semi like to keep it. I'll probably end up doing a koni yellow/ ground control setup...or illuminas/springs.
You say pullies...type-s pistons...is what i'm getting at for this thread, looking to find out the parts I'd need for my goal and reading up on them.
Not the motor to be boosting high PSI with at least...I know if you want to do anything decent you need to sleeve...but for what i'm looking for, a low boost setup would be ideal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I mean how much do you have to spend? I'd say get pullies, hi-flow cat and tune. As suggested invest in suspension and maybe lsd if you have the cash. It really all depends on how much you have, you can also drop in type-s pistons. etc. etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing right now. This is me doing my research. My car is currently for sale, but i'm not really pushing for a sale. I'd semi like to keep it. I'll probably end up doing a koni yellow/ ground control setup...or illuminas/springs.
You say pullies...type-s pistons...is what i'm getting at for this thread, looking to find out the parts I'd need for my goal and reading up on them.
13.5 @100mph
22 x 15 slicks, ALL Motor, Full Interior
Head:
Blacktrax Stage 2 ported and polished head
Blacktrax Ported Intake Manifold
Blacktrax Deburred Combustion Chambers
Blacktrax Balanced and Polished Rocker Arms
Blacktrax/SuperTech High Compression Flat Valves
Blacktrax Deburred Head
Blacktrax Modified Valve Cover
Blacktrax/SuperTech Titanium Valve Springs & Retainers
RS Akimoto Velocity Stack
Crower Stage 3 All Motor Cams
Hondata Heat Resistant Intake Manifold Gasket
STR 68mm Billet Throttle Body w/Match Ported Manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Regulator
AEM Fuel Filter
AEM Tru Power Pulleys
AEM Cold Air Intake
OBD 1 Stock h22 Injectors
Earls Stainless Steel Fuel Line
STR Cam Gears
NGK Spark Plugs
NGK Wires
Prospeed header
Block:
Stock JDM h22 (10.6:1 compression)
Moroso Aluminum Racing Oil Pan w/ Baffle & Trap Door
Moroso Oil Pick up
Mr.Gasket Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Misc:
Energy Motor Mount Inserts
Removed AC
Removed Cruise Control
Transmission:
JDM h22 LSD transmission
ACT 12lb Flywheel
Blacktrax/Superior Custom 4 puck Copper/Kevlar Clutch
Royal Purple SyncroMesh
__________________________________________________ ________
and thats on slicks never letting off the gas.
and when i say fully built, that doesnt mean you have to run forged internals. It means that you somehow raised the compression. Remember that you are asking to do this on street tires.
22 x 15 slicks, ALL Motor, Full Interior
Head:
Blacktrax Stage 2 ported and polished head
Blacktrax Ported Intake Manifold
Blacktrax Deburred Combustion Chambers
Blacktrax Balanced and Polished Rocker Arms
Blacktrax/SuperTech High Compression Flat Valves
Blacktrax Deburred Head
Blacktrax Modified Valve Cover
Blacktrax/SuperTech Titanium Valve Springs & Retainers
RS Akimoto Velocity Stack
Crower Stage 3 All Motor Cams
Hondata Heat Resistant Intake Manifold Gasket
STR 68mm Billet Throttle Body w/Match Ported Manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Regulator
AEM Fuel Filter
AEM Tru Power Pulleys
AEM Cold Air Intake
OBD 1 Stock h22 Injectors
Earls Stainless Steel Fuel Line
STR Cam Gears
NGK Spark Plugs
NGK Wires
Prospeed header
Block:
Stock JDM h22 (10.6:1 compression)
Moroso Aluminum Racing Oil Pan w/ Baffle & Trap Door
Moroso Oil Pick up
Mr.Gasket Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Misc:
Energy Motor Mount Inserts
Removed AC
Removed Cruise Control
Transmission:
JDM h22 LSD transmission
ACT 12lb Flywheel
Blacktrax/Superior Custom 4 puck Copper/Kevlar Clutch
Royal Purple SyncroMesh
__________________________________________________ ________
and thats on slicks never letting off the gas.
and when i say fully built, that doesnt mean you have to run forged internals. It means that you somehow raised the compression. Remember that you are asking to do this on street tires.
Cams and Headwork and a nice header with some sort of tune/manegment. Try to raise your compression which a different headgasket if you dont want to touch the block, or milling the head. There are many different things you can do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">13.5 @100mphand when i say fully built, that doesnt mean you have to run forged internals. It means that you somehow raised the compression. Remember that you are asking to do this on street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What was the 60' ??
Thats...a lot. Wow...I might not even bother with anything if thats the case and just go turbo. That just seems like a whole lot to run such a low time. In my opinion at least.
What was the 60' ??
Thats...a lot. Wow...I might not even bother with anything if thats the case and just go turbo. That just seems like a whole lot to run such a low time. In my opinion at least.
I really don't think your that far off. My friend on here ran a 14.3 in a gen 4 full interior and crappy tires with intake a crappy dented header and exhaust. I realize gen 5's are a supposed to be a little bit slower but I'd say if your a good driver your not that far off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your going to attempt this, your going to need to focus on more than just the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
fully aware of the suspension and rubber components needed...so i am focusing more on gaining knowledge of engine necessities. I guess I should've mentioned that in my original post. Sorry.
What elevation was that 13.5 run at?
fully aware of the suspension and rubber components needed...so i am focusing more on gaining knowledge of engine necessities. I guess I should've mentioned that in my original post. Sorry.
What elevation was that 13.5 run at?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . M i c h a e l »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fully aware of the suspension and rubber components needed...so i am focusing more on gaining knowledge of engine necessities. I guess I should've mentioned that in my original post. Sorry.
What elevation was that 13.5 run at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
dunno, somewhere in CA.......although that doesnt mean much with how much the elevation changes there, lol
What elevation was that 13.5 run at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
dunno, somewhere in CA.......although that doesnt mean much with how much the elevation changes there, lol
[QUOTE=. M i c h a e l]Well, technically nearly any mod would help...it doesnt mean that it would benefit me for my goal.
so it will help but not benefit your goal? then how will it help? itb's set up properly will make your car faster does this not help your goal?
so it will help but not benefit your goal? then how will it help? itb's set up properly will make your car faster does this not help your goal?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> so it will help but not benefit your goal? then how will it help? itb's set up properly will make your car faster does this not help your goal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because that $600 you want for thos ITBs COULD potentially go toward an IM and cams. Perhaps those cams and IM could net me 20 horsepower, whereas the ITBs would get me 12 and be better for an all out N/A set-up. Hence helping...but not for MY goal.
Besides, its annoying when people try to sling parts in a tech thread.
edit: fixed the quote.
Modified by . M i c h a e l at 12:29 AM 11/6/2006
Because that $600 you want for thos ITBs COULD potentially go toward an IM and cams. Perhaps those cams and IM could net me 20 horsepower, whereas the ITBs would get me 12 and be better for an all out N/A set-up. Hence helping...but not for MY goal.
Besides, its annoying when people try to sling parts in a tech thread.
edit: fixed the quote.
Modified by . M i c h a e l at 12:29 AM 11/6/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=. M i c h a e l]Well, technically nearly any mod would help...it doesnt mean that it would benefit me for my goal.
so it will help but not benefit your goal? then how will it help? itb's set up properly will make your car faster does this not help your goal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you saying that or are you just trying to make some money?
so it will help but not benefit your goal? then how will it help? itb's set up properly will make your car faster does this not help your goal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you saying that or are you just trying to make some money?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . M i c h a e l »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were to go N/A...it would NOT be a full N/A build. I would be happy with my 13 second set-up for a while...but would absolutely not completely build it up that way. If I decided to keep the car and wanted to go faster (which is inevitable) I'd go turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oops didnt notice that part... sorry... want to buy my haha j/k anywho 12hp or 20hp its still going to help you get to your goal... but my .02 turbo cant be beat for price to power ratio revhard kits are 2599 shipped i believe if you call RH directly...
If I were to go N/A...it would NOT be a full N/A build. I would be happy with my 13 second set-up for a while...but would absolutely not completely build it up that way. If I decided to keep the car and wanted to go faster (which is inevitable) I'd go turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oops didnt notice that part... sorry... want to buy my haha j/k anywho 12hp or 20hp its still going to help you get to your goal... but my .02 turbo cant be beat for price to power ratio revhard kits are 2599 shipped i believe if you call RH directly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you saying that or are you just trying to make some money?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
both... i dont wanna thread jack so i'll just leave it at that...
</TD></TR></TABLE>both... i dont wanna thread jack so i'll just leave it at that...


