question about H22 auto tensioner
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From: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Ok I know about the auto to manual tensioner conversion but b4 I knew about it I changed my auto tensioner 3 times. My motor is a 97 H22 and I have Built the bottom end with pistons rods and iron sleeves the head has been ported new springs and retainers stock cams. I replaced the auto tensioner 3 times with the supposedly updated part. Talked to my local Honda dealer and they say they dont know what would cause this part to fail so many times so I ask fellow H-Ters for some advice. As of now I am doing the auto to manual conversion.
Ya i had the same problem i got my motor put it in my car and a month or so after it was in it took a **** on me i put the manual one in and so far so good. I hope this dose not happen any more after i got the manual tensioner
How ofter was the auto 1 goin out on you?
How ofter was the auto 1 goin out on you?
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I replaced the auto tensioner 3 times with the updated part each time the dealer warrantied the part but not the labor so I did labor on my own. I been through 3 different "updated" auto tensioner kits. But on the 3rd auto tensioner I put in I drove the car for about a month then it started making noise and the engine died I hope that it didnt cause any big problems internally. MyLilCivic B4 you went manual tensioner did the auto tensioner completely fail and did your engine die.
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It was making a flaping noise around 2K rpm i took the timing cover off and watched the timing belt you could see the timing belt flaping and hitting the lower timing cover
Yes it did i was at a stop light and then i started to move and at first i thought i mite have put my car in 3rd gear but i pulled back in nutral then back in first and then the car just died i pushed it into a gas station took the cover off and my timing belt was almost off the cam gears and most of the belt was shreded all over the place.
Then put of the manual and have never had a problem sence.
Do a leak down test on your car when then tensioner gives out you have a very good chance of dropping a valve, even more so if you were at a high RPM i was lucking i was at like 1200 when it happen
Then put of the manual and have never had a problem sence.
Do a leak down test on your car when then tensioner gives out you have a very good chance of dropping a valve, even more so if you were at a high RPM i was lucking i was at like 1200 when it happen
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Ok I did the manual tensioner conversion and drop the engine back into the car started it up and reved it a little bit and the exhaust side of the timing belt still looks like its still too loose. But i tightened down the tensioner there was hardly any play in the timing belt dont know if this will be ok did not drive the car yet any one have any thoughts.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wle05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I did the manual tensioner conversion and drop the engine back into the car started it up and reved it a little bit and the exhaust side of the timing belt still looks like its still too loose. But i tightened down the tensioner there was hardly any play in the timing belt dont know if this will be ok did not drive the car yet any one have any thoughts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The trick to tightening the timing belt is to get everything bolted up, adjust the tensioner, then rotate the crank counterclockwise a few degrees to take up the slack, then tighten it down. Then after everything's good, rotate it a few rotations by hand to check all the timing marks.
The trick to tightening the timing belt is to get everything bolted up, adjust the tensioner, then rotate the crank counterclockwise a few degrees to take up the slack, then tighten it down. Then after everything's good, rotate it a few rotations by hand to check all the timing marks.
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