Camber Kits???
I know camber kits and whether you need them or not is discussed on almost a daily basis it's just I would like to get an answer for my particular set up, and not wanting to spend the money for them. I have a 2000 ls integra and I'm going to be ordering the complete omni power coilovers tonight. I would like to just eliminate wheel gap front and back which is basically 2 inches. So do I need a camber kit, beacause I want to order it when I get the coilovers. And if so front, back or both. Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know camber kits and whether you need them or not is discussed on almost a daily basis it's just I would like to get an answer for my particular set up, and not wanting to spend the money for them. I have a 2000 ls integra and I'm going to be ordering the complete omni power coilovers tonight. I would like to just eliminate wheel gap front and back which is basically 2 inches. So do I need a camber kit, beacause I want to order it when I get the coilovers. And if so front, back or both. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
I drove that low without them for a while with my 00 GSR. When I decided I wanted more negative camber, then I got a camber kit. Thats what I would recommend to you as well, lower the car to the height you want, then go get an alignment ASAP, to get your toe correctly set to avoid excessive tire wear. You'll probably be around -2* or so in the front after the lowering, which is perfectly fine for daily use, and less in the rear (I was at -1.6*).
In addition to replacing the UCA with a new point of potential failure (just bolt tension holding a sliding plate in place), you'll also lose some available suspension travel from the taller balljoint, which is the last thing you want to lose with a car dumped the the point of flushed tires.
I drove that low without them for a while with my 00 GSR. When I decided I wanted more negative camber, then I got a camber kit. Thats what I would recommend to you as well, lower the car to the height you want, then go get an alignment ASAP, to get your toe correctly set to avoid excessive tire wear. You'll probably be around -2* or so in the front after the lowering, which is perfectly fine for daily use, and less in the rear (I was at -1.6*).
In addition to replacing the UCA with a new point of potential failure (just bolt tension holding a sliding plate in place), you'll also lose some available suspension travel from the taller balljoint, which is the last thing you want to lose with a car dumped the the point of flushed tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misanthropist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None necessary. I have -2.8 and -2.7 on my car and my tires are perfectly fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and did you get an alignment?
and did you get an alignment?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misanthropist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Absolutely. Only thing that spares my tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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mostly because there are still ppl who say you NEED camber kits to save your tires and dont know any better because theyve been spoonfed that line for years, and continue to regurgitate this misinformation.
actually, its really just hondas that dont need camber kits. most other cars that dont have double wishbone suspension have such horrible camber control it does make a difference. but whats always important is toe needs to be aligned after lowering and is often neglected.
actually, its really just hondas that dont need camber kits. most other cars that dont have double wishbone suspension have such horrible camber control it does make a difference. but whats always important is toe needs to be aligned after lowering and is often neglected.
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