I just put the rear disk brakes off an integra gsr on my civic, then me and a buddy of mine drained all the old brake fluid out and i put fully synthetic in and we bled the brakes starting with the back and it felt good till i started the car then the pedal about goes to the floor, anyone know a good way to bleed brakes or any suggestions?

 

mine did that and it was a leak. make sure you have no leaks anywhere. when bleeding them and building pressure in the pedal its easy to find a leak.

if thats not the problem just try bleeding again. i think the sequence from helms is.


RR, LF, LR, RF

when i bleed brakes i always do it at least 3 times in that sequence and have never had any problems (that may be over doing it, but id rather get it done the first time)

 

thanks man for the help man ill give it a try

 

another thing...did you change the prop valve?

i dont know anything about rear brake conversions but im sure that the stock prop valve (rear drums) wont work with a rear disc conversion.

someone else will have to chime in on that one tho

 

No but the car i took these off of to begin with had factory drums before he had these and they worked fine then he sold the car and traded out the rear brakes with me.

 

dude, you really need to get the prop valve and MC/ BB combo... make sure the MC&BB are non abs if you car is non abs... trust me. I've been on the same rear disc conversion since last week and still cant drive my car. wrong mc/bb combo

As far as bleeding the brakes... I've found that bleeding the brakes with the car on (w/ vaccum) gives you a better idea of whether you've gotten all the air out of the lines. the pedal should get tight at the same point everytime you press it, and it should not go that far down. if after bleeding the brakes you still loose pressure it's your master cylinder.

 

where can i find the proportioning valve

 

I found one off a 98 integra on ebay for $5 with rear disk

 

make sure it's one that will fit your current brake line set up.
For EG's you need this one:

Later model civics and acuras (or maybe it's the abs)use this one... I think:

 

Its on a 98 civic

 

the stock bb wont work? if you got everthing else the stock bb should be fine!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, you really need to get the prop valve and MC/ BB combo... make sure the MC&BB are non abs if you car is non abs... trust me. I've been on the same rear disc conversion since last week and still cant drive my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need the PV,BB or the MC for rear disc I have LS rear discs on my 97 civic I have had no issues with them and I did notice a braking difference.

However I would do PV, BB,and MC if you also do front brakes.

 

i think the correct bleeding sequence is

RR, LR, RF, LF

it goes furthest from the MC to the nearest to the MC

 

Prop valve does not matter, trust me.

 

Ok i bled the brakes again in the order you listed and this time with the engine running to have vacuum on it and it never gained any pressure.

 

Does it loose pressure slowly or just doesn't have any at all. Does the pedal drop to the floor?

 

i had a 93 civic vx and did a complete front and rear gsr swap and i never had any issiues with my brakes. my pedal was a bit softer but it worked fine. my only sugestion to you is to get a gsr master cylinder and brake booster and just bleed it a couple of times. that should do it.

 

Heres something you can try. Whn you bleed your brakes. I did this when I reconnected my clutch hydraulics. Take a clean soda bottle, and a small length of hose. The hose inner diameter should be big enough to fit over the end of you bleeder valves. Punch a hole in the bottle top to fit the hose into the bottle. Fill the bottle with clean brake fluid. Push the hose into the bottle so that it is submerged in the fluid and proceed to bleed you brakes. This should prevent any air from getting back into the lines once the pedal is retracted. Do this with two people. It's worth a shot.

 

it is your mc. if you are bleeding correctly,and have no leaks. this is common. the "seals"(not the right word)get washed out in older hondas when you blled the brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does it loose pressure slowly or just doesn't have any at all. Does the pedal drop to the floor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It has pressure most of the time since i bled them again but sometimes it just sinks to the floor, I was told by a honda technician that since I had drained all the fluid out to put new in the mc may have lost its prime so i have to disconnect the two line from it and fill it with fluid have someone press the pedal and plug the holes before th pedal is released, fill with more fluid and repeat about 3 times and he said I dont need the prop valve or anything else just get the mc right and bleed the brakes again starting with the one further away from the mc and it should be good to go.


Modified by b18c-ivic_gsR at 12:59 PM 10/31/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nello a. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is your mc. if you are bleeding correctly,and have no leaks. this is common. the "seals"(not the right word)get washed out in older hondas when you blled the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think your right, after i (primed) the mc and bled the brakes again it had a full pedal then i went down the road and the pedal went almost to the floor so the technician I was talkin to said the mc had gone out due to age and bleeding the brakes so the seals weren't holding up

 

sounds about right. get a new one from honda or a refurb from autozone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by built562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the correct bleeding sequence is

RR, LR, RF, LF

it goes furthest from the MC to the nearest to the MC</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. This is WRONG on a Honda.

Rear Right, Front Left, Rear Left, Front Right

 

Yea i Orderd one today $180+ Tax

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heres something you can try. Whn you bleed your brakes. I did this when I reconnected my clutch hydraulics. Take a clean soda bottle, and a small length of hose. The hose inner diameter should be big enough to fit over the end of you bleeder valves. Punch a hole in the bottle top to fit the hose into the bottle. Fill the bottle with clean brake fluid. Push the hose into the bottle so that it is submerged in the fluid and proceed to bleed you brakes. This should prevent any air from getting back into the lines once the pedal is retracted. Do this with two people. It's worth a shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeap...thats how i did mines...with this sequence RR, LR, RF, LF...worked fine...used a 40/40 pv from 00si...all in 96 hatch...and rear disc from 94 teg..brake pressure is better then before i did the disc swap...