alright i screwed up like usuall heres my dilema i did the dx to mpfi swap onto my crx i have a d16y5 vtec e motor in my crx at first i had a lag issue problem anything over 3/4 throttle and the car would fall onto its nose it wouldnt stall but would just slow down i went to axiom they said to upgrade the intake and fuel pump (i put an si fuel pump in) so i did

i did the swap onto the car following everything step by step that i got off line to do the swap word for word and tagged all my wires in color code so i knew what was what i took the b2 wires and b10 wire and depinned them didnt cut them but depinned them and moved them to b10 and b12 like i was suppose to i cut c1 & c2 and spliced them into b11 & b12 i connected c1 and spliced it into to b10 and c2 and spliced it to b12 making sure to leave everything connected

i attached wires to c1 & c2 and made sure to mark them and run them into the engine compartment like i was suppose to i aslo cut wires to a3 & a7 and ran them into the engine compartment as well i did not however hook up the wires that i cut off @ a3 & a7 i left those two wires floating and taped off under the dash

i extended all of my wires at the tps and eacv i followed the instructions on how to hook up all injectors and i am running standard si injectors and i depinned one wire at a time on my dizzy plug on the dx dizzy and transferred them to the si dizzy plug one by one so the only wires i cut were the ones under my dash and a couple under the hood and followed the instructions on how i was suppose to do it

since i have done this swap i have had problems the car starts up and runs fine my si dizzy is also notched for the vtec head but when i revv up on the car it tachs at like 3500 and starts to back fire and the car is puffing black smoke so obviously a sign of me running too rich i have doubled checked all of my vaccum lines and they are all hooked up

i am just wondering if i screwed up somewhere with the wiring or what any one have any suggestions or ideas be greatly appreciated axiom said they would charge me 65 to diagnose it but this is my backup car and my daily driver since my wife is always driving the truck so i need help and i need it asap some one please help me out thanks chris


Modified by convic23 at 7:48 PM 10/27/2006

 

any cels?

 

so far i have a 4 and a 20 i havent checked for more yet i just need to figure out what i did now i appreciate the help i know i still need to do the timing with my si dizzy on the vtec head just not sure

 

i have never heard of a d15y5 vtec e i have heard of a d15z1 your car runs like crap because of the dizzy and the ecu, notching the dizzy to make it fit the head is stupid..1 you will never get it timed right two it looks stupid and three it was never meant to run your setup..one rule of thumb is too run the same ecu and dizzy as the head so do an obd conversion run the right ecu and check all your mpfi wiring.. your stock fuel pump will run an h22 lol so thats definately not it...i myself tried to get my d15b running on non obd the car ran like *** and a vtec switch is also gay...do it right the first time youll waste so much time

 

its a d16y5 its an obd2 motor out of a 96 & up civic ran fine on the dx setup with out any problems accept the lag issue but i wanted a lil more performance and wanted to get rid of the lag issue most of the people i know around here have done the notching to make it work with out any problems im just curious what i did to screw up on the swap to make tach at like 3000

 

what intake...check your dizzy wiring try switching around the wires at the dizzy particualary the two white wires rywire has a pinout for the dizzzy wiring that should help on a odb2 head i dont think you even have to mod the dizzy are you running the si ecu? i would go obd1 and chip the ecu for the maps for that engine why do you have that engine anyways. fuel economy?

 

no it was the motor that was in the car when i got it i swapped to the pm6 si manifold running a non chipped 90 pm6 ecu and just the standard si dizzy that is notched it was they way i got the dizzy a while back ill check the white wires and let you know im just confused now though

 

i already did switch them back to the regular way it didnt help i also swapped the two wires around on the dizzy plug all it did was make it so it wouldnt start i have tried just about everything the only thing left to do is

A: swap stock fuel pump back in
B: double check all my wiring again
C: switch back to the dx intake again ( which i really dont want to do unless i have to )

help with some more suggestions

whats the difference between a dx and si fuel pump anything or what but its obvious that i am dumping too much fuel into my engine at the moment since it is puffing black smoke

see thats the thing the dx setup when i did it and still had the dx fuel pump in which i had a feeling it was going out so i replaced with the si fuel pump that i got out of the yard and before i did the swap it was puffing white smoke which i was told cause it was lean now its puffing black which is what i am told is rich so that whole thing is new to me and i have no way to find out how much fuel that i am putting to the fuel rail thinking that might be part of the problem though to not sure i have a code for 4, 14, 20 and thats it i cant find my book at the moment so trying to look the codes up

the only thing that i can think of is the two wires that i cut off at the ecu @ a3 * a7 those are the only two wires sitting under my dash that arent hooked up i mean the two that you cut off i attached wires to the a3 & a7 and ran them into the engine bay so other than i am so confused and frustrated

ok just found my book it say this for the codes

4 is tdc crank sensor which is one of the codes that i also had while running the dx setup

14 is electronic air control valve

20 is electric load detector

 

i didnt really read everthing but it wont rev past 3k cause your in limp mode for the cel #4. as for #20 are all your grounds good? was everything souldered?

 

what r the cells?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by charlee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what r the cells?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by convic23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4 is tdc crank sensor which is one of the codes that i also had while running the dx setup

14 is electronic air control valve

20 is electric load detector </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i didnt even read. u sualy the reallylong post i stop like half way.lol,
but anyways. pardon my ignorance

 

yeah but see with going back and double checking everything again i found the problem i hooked up two of the wires that i was suppose to leave floating under the dash and spliced them into my harness setup it was causing the problems that and i unplugged my battery overnight but as soon as i fired it up this morning it fired and revs all the way up 7,8 grand now so i am happy thanks for the help to those that helped