OK...I bought a D16A6 and converted my PM5 to a PM6 with MPFI following Effin's instructions. I know there must be a problem with my wiring because it started and my check engine light was on. First the idle was incorrect and bouncy, and then my engine wouldn't rev quickly nor would it go past 3100 RPM. It's reading 4 codes. The first one is 4 which is crank angle sensor. Next is 8 which is TDC position. Next is 10 which is Intake Air Temperature. Finally, next is 14 which is EACV. Basically my question is there are 3 plugs that are the same around the EACV and they all plug into it and the sensor on the driver's side of the intake manifold. Which color plug is the right one? I extended a green plug so I'm guessing that it was the wrong one. Also, on my dizzy, I took the round plug off and depinned all the wires then I pinned them into my DX dizzy plug and plugged them into my harness. Then I took the C1 and C2 wires that I was told to run into the engine bay and connected them to the two wires that I needed to based on the depinning diagram on Rywire.com. Can ANYONE tell me what I need to do to solve this problem?

 

Can anyone hook me up with some ideas?

 

Try switching the plugs on the EACV and the intake air temp..
The connectors are the same..

Distributor codes=Your distributor is probably junk..

Take it off the engine and spin it both ways by hand..
If it feels crunchy,the bearing is probably bad..

 

The problem is is that my IAT and my EACV sensors don't have similar plugs. There IS a plug that goes into the IAT but it is currently attached to the MAP sensor and the plug would have to be lengthened to reach it. Wait, my MPFI manifold has four sensors on it that I can see. The TPS, the EACV, and there are two other sensors. There is one on the driver's side of the manifold that sticks out of the side by the master cylinder, and there is one on the back of the manifold on the driver's side. The one on the back has a large vacuum line going to it and it's plug looks like the one attached to the MAP sensor. As far as the dizzy goes, what electrical tests can I do to test my wiring?

 

OK, I narrowed it down to one code and I think that you may be right about my dizzy. I went over my wiring about 10 times and it keeps getting a code 4. My crank angle sensor HAS to be bad. My wiring is perfect. I opened the dizzy and I can't figure out which sensor it is or where it is located within the housing itself. It looks like there are three sensors in there. Which part of the distributor shaft controls the sensor?

 

Code #4
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

from the ECU codes flow charts here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=468260

Usually what happens is the bearing starts going bad and shards of metal
stick to the magnetic pickups distorting the signal...

 

So do you think I can just rebuild the distributor or should I just get a new one? I mean, I just sunk $800 into this engine/tranny combo and I really can't afford another $150 right now. Are there any cost effective ways to fix this?

 

See: http://www.angelfire.com/ca/Dr....html
It is possible,but it can be a difficult task..
I have rebuilt one and it was a chore..

It has tiny bolts that will break most likely
unless you heat the housing to break the loctite..
Even then,the bolts can snap quite easily..

If you can get it apart,take the bearing to NAPA and have them
measure it and look it up in the paper catalog...
Again,Not the parts computer>The old school paper bearing catalog..

 

Would anyone happen to have a D16A6 distributor cheap? Preferably one that works. Please let me know. By the way, I have a Paypal Premier account.


Modified by 89D15CRXDX at 4:51 PM 10/25/2006