How hard is it if I only have common tools (c clamps, hammer, etc)? I need to replace because the castle nut won't thread back on because someone slammed the hub down on the joint and wrecked the threads.

 

PITA.

With the c-clamp and the right sized sockets, you might be able to "press" the balljoint out.

If it were mounted inversely, you could just hammer the bitch out.

Any local parts stores rent bj removal kits?

 

start by removing the whole knuckle and laying it flat. you can beat the old ball joint out with any hammer (i've used a carpenter claw hammer before) but the heavier it is the easier it is. with the old ball joint out your gonna have to press the new ball joint in using a c-clamp and oversized sockets. put a long socket i usually use a axle nut socket on the bottom of the ball joint and dirve it in using the c-clamp. also if the ball joint is original it might have a circlip holding it in that you need to take out. if you can't get it, you can always take it to a shop to have it pressed in.

 

Thanks guys. So all in all you are telling me I CAN do it without a tool made for ball joint install/removal? Maybe autozone rents those anways...

 

i took my knuckle off and use an air chisel through the boot to remove the old one (its junk anyway right?) then, cleaned the seat/hole a little with a wire brush thing on a drill, greased the hole and tapped lightly on the top of the new balljoint on the outside edges to get it back in, took maybe 15 mins of solid tapping the the hammer...when i watched the techs at the honda dealer do it, they where hitting it hard, im slightly less of a barbarian and a balljoint isnt free, so i did it lightly....eep tapping until the tone changes, this means its in all the way re-install and voila!

but can't you use a tap/die set to redo the threads?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SNYPR2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start by removing the whole knuckle and laying it flat. you can beat the old ball joint out with any hammer (i've used a carpenter claw hammer before) but the heavier it is the easier it is. with the old ball joint out your gonna have to press the new ball joint in using a c-clamp and oversized sockets. put a long socket i usually use a axle nut socket on the bottom of the ball joint and dirve it in using the c-clamp. also if the ball joint is original it might have a circlip holding it in that you need to take out. if you can't get it, you can always take it to a shop to have it pressed in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I did. Took about an hour per side.

So yes, you can use regular tools and still complete the job.

 

BFH to get it out and either BFH or jerry-rigged-clamp mechanism or air hammer to get it back in.... I'd honestly just take it to a shop to have the new one put in....

 

If you have access to a vise then it is easier. I took my knuckles off, remove the circlip with snap ring pliers. I actually "borrowed" the Honda dealership for 20 minutes one saturday and used the actual honda removal tool. Put it in the vise to remove.
Putting them in the best way I found was to remove the boot to avoid damage upon installation. There is a thin walled socket the fits where the threads will go that barely fits on the edge for support. The other side you can use any fat solid piece. then slowly press them in. Install snap ring and boot and your done.

This is how I install mine and I usually do the wheel bearings at the same time since I have the knuckle off the car and access to a floor press or table vise at the same time.
Also if you replace the wheel bearing it is a good time to check your lug nut bolts and change them at one shot.

This is just how I do it.

 

here's how i did mine with the knuckle still on the car. 1.5hrs max.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1720570

 

2005 Accord DX: Axle and ball joints (upper and lower):
Autozone is still loaning both kits but they can be kept for longer than 30 days so maybe your store won't have them. Also tried the Advanced Auto parts press (damn nice set) but couldn't use. Your life will be absolutely easier with the adapter set. All four of my joints were loose and could hear clunking over holes in road. Changed driver side axle last year because the original axle cracked in half.

A couple observations on my vehicle.
1) Left rotor disks on but made sure to be careful while working on lowers.
2) The ABS sensors cracked up on removal. So 100% agree that better to leave on wheel and disconnect from engine bay. They corrode/weld into the wheel assembly.
3) Lowers harder to remove, easier to install; smashed out with a socket and hand sledge, pushed in with the Autozone press kits
4) Uppers easier to remove, harder to install; pushed out and in with Autozone press kits. Had to use a breaker bar part way through install because they both got stuck even with air tool (maybe misaligned a bit but straightened out).
5) TRQ joints are easy to remove the covers and ring clip before installation. Have to remove them on uppers to be sure of correct orientation.
6) The presses are scary; the amount of pressure must be phenomenal. I have no idea where the failure points so worked very cautiously.