I just installed my Type-R rear sway bar on my 95 DC2 using the BSQ mounting kit. It took me about 2:15 to complete the install. The installation was pretty straight forward. You can pretty much "eye" out the installation and tell what you have to do.

I somehow couldnt mount the outside swaybar bolts 14mm. It was extremely hard to torque that bar. But I forgot that I wasnt supposed to tighten the 4 12mm bolts mounting the sway bar. So loosened them up, installation was alot easier.

So I mount my exhaust back up and notice that the bar actually takes up more room and makes mounting your exhaust a pain, especially working off the ground. I then weaseled it in there and walah, mounts perfect. I did notice that the exhaust rubs up against my bar ONLY when the car starts, but driving hard, highway, and street use, I couldnt hear any racket or noise from the "rubbing."

How does it feels and respond? The car is DEFINITELY alot more responsive. I can already tell that if you let off your throttle during a turn that your back end is more prone to slide out and result to a 180. So for those of you who want it, you might want to re-evaluate your consideration, ESPECIALLY for the street.

The car feels alot more rigid when I take uneven bumps and go over rail road tracks.

Overrall, I am satisfied with the $20 upgrade, considering I got the bar for cheap. For anybody wanting to upgrade to an ITR swaybar, dont waste your money on the Beaks Kit. I hear it takes a little more time and work at it. BSQ is affordable and comes in great quality. Good job BSQ!


[Modified by Crazy Bovine, 11:57 AM 5/5/2002]

 

Do you have a stock exhaust, or aftermarket? If the bar rubs and you have a stock exhaust, then you installed it upside-down. Lots of people here have done that, myself included.

 

Stock ITR exhaust. Uh ohhhhh, I might have to remove and re-install.

 

Just for people considering this installation, DO IT. Sure, it does reduce understeer, but it's not to the point that it's dangerous. If you're at the limit of traction and you let off the gas, regardless of the rear sway bar your rear will swing out. If it wasn't safe it wouldn't be OEM. Your post could've scared potential ITR-Swaybar installers, so I'm just clarifying that. It's a great mod and at most it's $150 for everything. BTW, it shouldn't hit your exhaust unless you installed it upside down (which a lot of people do).

 

Haha I figured it out. I have to re-install the bar tonight damnit. Ive taken turns at speeds which exceed posted speed limit and I never had a problem with my GSR sway bar. Maybe since its all new to me, Im not used to it. Like I said in my original post, it makes you MORE prone to swing out than the GSR.

 

How did you remove the spot welded nuts?
What size--5/16" or 3/8"-- did you use to enlarge the hole?

 

Banged it out. It wasnt easy. I honestly do not think you have to remove that spot weld.

 

Took me 20 minutes to correct. Now its right side up.

 

Gjob, now work on your entry speeds

 

Yeah, thats what people have been telling me. I do have a question for you, why is it that we as non-ITR chassis have to work on entry speeds vs a ITR. Wouldnt they have the same problem too? I mean, this IS an ITR rear bar?

 

ok, so now that it's right side up, how about a re-evaluation? thanks

 

I'm track illiterate (sp?). Please explain.

 

Log into AIM, Ill chat there.....

 

You installed the ITR bar the wrong way dude. Turn it around, right to left. I made that mistake and there was rubbing until I looked at the picture again. I was like WTF? It should PLENTY of clearance when installed properly and it will feel much better in handling.

EDIT: Ooops, you noticed that already. Yeah, like I said, I made the same mistake but the reinstalation took 1/3 of the original time I spent since I figured everything out.

Those tack nuts are a pain in ****. The driver side nut came out quick but the right side....urgggh.


[Modified by jl74, 7:38 PM 5/5/2002]