475f/400r spring rates?
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475f/400r spring rates?
How would these ride daily driving on the street? Too stiff?
gc 475f/400r, koni yellows, gc top hats on all 4, dropped front shocks, 96 civic
Modified by Battle23 at 3:07 PM 10/26/2006
gc 475f/400r, koni yellows, gc top hats on all 4, dropped front shocks, 96 civic
Modified by Battle23 at 3:07 PM 10/26/2006
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From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (Battle23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would these ride daily driving on the street? Too stiff?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Um, without telling us what car this is going into, I don't think any reply you get is worth anything.
That said, I daily drive my 00 GSR on 400/400 rates without much issue.
Um, without telling us what car this is going into, I don't think any reply you get is worth anything.
That said, I daily drive my 00 GSR on 400/400 rates without much issue.
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (TunerN00b)
opps sorry, they're going on a 96 civic. would i need to run any type a sway bar in the rear/front? not really going to autox or road race, just daily driving and taking corners here and there. buying these used so, would you suggest getting something softer in the front?
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (Battle23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">opps sorry, they're going on a 96 civic. would i need to run any type a sway bar in the rear/front? not really going to autox or road race, just daily driving and taking corners here and there. buying these used so, would you suggest getting something softer in the front?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (TunerN00b)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey thanks NOOb that actually helped a lot because i tuck front and rear and my em1 and was only noticing horrible rear camber. i think im just going to throw and ingalls kit in the rear and leave the front as is.
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey thanks NOOb that actually helped a lot because i tuck front and rear and my em1 and was only noticing horrible rear camber. i think im just going to throw and ingalls kit in the rear and leave the front as is.
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (electron_si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electron_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey thanks NOOb that actually helped a lot because i tuck front and rear and my em1 and was only noticing horrible rear camber. i think im just going to throw and ingalls kit in the rear and leave the front as is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt anyone cares, but just in case anyone does... I daily drive my 00 GSR with -4.0*/-1.2* camber (auto-x and HPDE car as well), and I haven't seen any abnormal, accelerated, or otherwise unacceptable, tire wear in the last year that I have had these tires. My weekend car, a 1979 Triumph Spitfire, sports +0.5*/-4.75* camber (factory spec is +2.0* +- 0.5* for the front, so I'm a little out of spec from sagging springs, and -3.75* +- 1* rear, on the edge of spec from sagging leaf spring) and has shown very even, normal, tire wear over the last 8 years and 10k miles.
"Camber wear" doesn't exist, but we certainly put our cars well out of proper toe alignment by lowering them. Get your toe aligned correctly, every time you change ride heights, and you won't wear out your tires. Just my $0.02, take it for what you think its worth.
I doubt anyone cares, but just in case anyone does... I daily drive my 00 GSR with -4.0*/-1.2* camber (auto-x and HPDE car as well), and I haven't seen any abnormal, accelerated, or otherwise unacceptable, tire wear in the last year that I have had these tires. My weekend car, a 1979 Triumph Spitfire, sports +0.5*/-4.75* camber (factory spec is +2.0* +- 0.5* for the front, so I'm a little out of spec from sagging springs, and -3.75* +- 1* rear, on the edge of spec from sagging leaf spring) and has shown very even, normal, tire wear over the last 8 years and 10k miles.
"Camber wear" doesn't exist, but we certainly put our cars well out of proper toe alignment by lowering them. Get your toe aligned correctly, every time you change ride heights, and you won't wear out your tires. Just my $0.02, take it for what you think its worth.
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (TunerN00b)
Camber wear does exist just not half as bad as toe wear. You will have accelerated wear with 4* camber. That sounds really high even for a weekend warrior car.
And I would agree if you get a good shock like the Koni the ride wont be too bad but it's all based on opinion.
And I would agree if you get a good shock like the Koni the ride wont be too bad but it's all based on opinion.
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (dvp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i heard the lower you go, the more stiffer it'll get? if i want to tuck tire, how will the ride be with koni yellows on those spring rates?
For a daily driver, that won't be autocrossed or HPDEd, I think those are great rates. Make certain that you get good enough shocks to handle them though.
I'm running Koni Yellows, and couldn't be happier. Actually, I wish I had a higher front rate for the street, to help with the occasional bottoming that I have, but I don't want to change the front / rear bias because it finally rotates acceptable for autocross. Since you don't have that concern, they should be a great starting point for you, and you can always swap springs later if you don't like the ride.
I wouldn't worry about swaybars until after you get the springs on the car. If there's still too much body roll for your taste, then look into a nice rear swaybar. Not sure what bars you have stock, but if you have a front it is fine, and consider adding a rear if you aren't happy with just the springs. Also, if you don't have a stock rear swaybar, check to make certain that your rear LCAs have the swaybar mounting hole before you buy anything (I'm not sure on Civics).
Also, I'd recommend against wasting money on a camber kit for the front. Even if you drop it to the point of flushed tires, you'll still have streetable camber (I had 2.2* in the Integra tucking tire, and the Civic should be similar) and a replacement UCA would just help limit front suspension travel even more. The rear of the 96-00 Civic gains camber really quickly from lowering, and while I wouldn't worry about it, you can get a cheap camber adjuster for back there if it borthers you too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i heard the lower you go, the more stiffer it'll get? if i want to tuck tire, how will the ride be with koni yellows on those spring rates?
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From: olathe, ks, us
Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (Battle23)
be careful about blowing ur konis. if u really wanna tuck get like 450's in teh front and the extended top hats, otherwise ur struts and bumpstops will get to know each other a little to well 
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Re: 475f/400r spring rates? (electron_si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electron_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be careful about blowing ur konis. if u really wanna tuck get like 450's in teh front and the extended top hats, otherwise ur struts and bumpstops will get to know each other a little to well </TD></TR></TABLE>
would i be fine with 475 in the front with extended top hats and maybe dropping the shock fork?
</TD></TR></TABLE>would i be fine with 475 in the front with extended top hats and maybe dropping the shock fork?
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Re: (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to have 380f/450r on my GS-R, and it sucked BAD on my 100-mile daily commute. Great on autox, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
will the gc extended top hats help? i got them for the fronts and rear. im not going to be doing any really autocrossing. they're used so i cant really choose the rates but how much do just custom springs for the coilovers go for?
will the gc extended top hats help? i got them for the fronts and rear. im not going to be doing any really autocrossing. they're used so i cant really choose the rates but how much do just custom springs for the coilovers go for?
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Re: (Battle23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the gc extended top hats help? i got them for the fronts and rear. im not going to be doing any really autocrossing. they're used so i cant really choose the rates but how much do just custom springs for the coilovers go for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did not bottom out at all with my setup, to my knowledge. Extended top hats would not have made any difference in ride quality, but then again I wasn't completely super slammed either.
I did not bottom out at all with my setup, to my knowledge. Extended top hats would not have made any difference in ride quality, but then again I wasn't completely super slammed either.
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Re: (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did not bottom out at all with my setup, to my knowledge. Extended top hats would not have made any difference in ride quality, but then again I wasn't completely super slammed either.</TD></TR></TABLE>
would it be even "harsher" ride the lower i go? i guess i just have to put them on and see how bad it really is ahh
would it be even "harsher" ride the lower i go? i guess i just have to put them on and see how bad it really is ahh
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Re: (Battle23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be even "harsher" ride the lower i go? i guess i just have to put them on and see how bad it really is ahh</TD></TR></TABLE>
With the same springs, changing ride height won't change ride quality until you run out of suspension travel. Then again, if you're tucking tire, you'll be sitting on the bumpstops, even with the GC upper mounts (been there, done that), and it won't exactly be the smoothest ride.
Looking into my wheel well now, with the car on the ground, I'm running around a 2 finger gap (6" front side jack point to ground), and I've got less than 1" of suspension travel before the shock hits the bumpstop, with the GC upper mounts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the gc extended top hats help? i got them for the fronts and rear. im not going to be doing any really autocrossing. they're used so i cant really choose the rates but how much do just custom springs for the coilovers go for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the rears are a waste of money. With the stock upper mounts, back when I was tucking tire, I still had much more rear suspension travel available than the front, as long as the stock bumpstops are trimmed appropriately.
With the same springs, changing ride height won't change ride quality until you run out of suspension travel. Then again, if you're tucking tire, you'll be sitting on the bumpstops, even with the GC upper mounts (been there, done that), and it won't exactly be the smoothest ride.
Looking into my wheel well now, with the car on the ground, I'm running around a 2 finger gap (6" front side jack point to ground), and I've got less than 1" of suspension travel before the shock hits the bumpstop, with the GC upper mounts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the gc extended top hats help? i got them for the fronts and rear. im not going to be doing any really autocrossing. they're used so i cant really choose the rates but how much do just custom springs for the coilovers go for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the rears are a waste of money. With the stock upper mounts, back when I was tucking tire, I still had much more rear suspension travel available than the front, as long as the stock bumpstops are trimmed appropriately.
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Re: (TunerN00b)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking into my wheel well now, with the car on the ground, I'm running around a 2 finger gap (6" front side jack point to ground), and I've got less than 1" of suspension travel before the shock hits the bumpstop, with the GC upper mounts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesn't sound right. I'm on Koni shocks and stock Integra springs with the Koni perch on the lower setting, and I have maybe 1 finger gap in front, and I know there is plenty more than 1" of suspension travel on my shocks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesn't sound right. I'm on Koni shocks and stock Integra springs with the Koni perch on the lower setting, and I have maybe 1 finger gap in front, and I know there is plenty more than 1" of suspension travel on my shocks.
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Re: (garrettej8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With the same springs, changing ride height won't change ride quality until you run out of suspension travel. Then again, if you're tucking tire, you'll be sitting on the bumpstops, even with the GC upper mounts (been there, done that), and it won't exactly be the smoothest ride.
Looking into my wheel well now, with the car on the ground, I'm running around a 2 finger gap (6" front side jack point to ground), and I've got less than 1" of suspension travel before the shock hits the bumpstop, with the GC upper mounts.
I think the rears are a waste of money. With the stock upper mounts, back when I was tucking tire, I still had much more rear suspension travel available than the front, as long as the stock bumpstops are trimmed appropriately.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That doesn't sound right. I'm on Koni shocks and stock Integra springs with the Koni perch on the lower setting, and I have maybe 1 finger gap in front, and I know there is plenty more than 1" of suspension travel on my shocks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on bump stops, do i just cut them in half pretty much?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garrettej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm installing coilovers this saturday 672f/560r
I hope it's nice and stiff...</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you going to be daily driving?
With the same springs, changing ride height won't change ride quality until you run out of suspension travel. Then again, if you're tucking tire, you'll be sitting on the bumpstops, even with the GC upper mounts (been there, done that), and it won't exactly be the smoothest ride.
Looking into my wheel well now, with the car on the ground, I'm running around a 2 finger gap (6" front side jack point to ground), and I've got less than 1" of suspension travel before the shock hits the bumpstop, with the GC upper mounts.
I think the rears are a waste of money. With the stock upper mounts, back when I was tucking tire, I still had much more rear suspension travel available than the front, as long as the stock bumpstops are trimmed appropriately.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That doesn't sound right. I'm on Koni shocks and stock Integra springs with the Koni perch on the lower setting, and I have maybe 1 finger gap in front, and I know there is plenty more than 1" of suspension travel on my shocks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on bump stops, do i just cut them in half pretty much?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garrettej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm installing coilovers this saturday 672f/560r
I hope it's nice and stiff...</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you going to be daily driving?
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Re: (Battle23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Battle23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you going to be daily driving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. but I'm the kind of person that enjoys a stiff ride and I don't find it to be annoying.
yep. but I'm the kind of person that enjoys a stiff ride and I don't find it to be annoying.
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Re: (garrettej8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garrettej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yep. but I'm the kind of person that enjoys a stiff ride and I don't find it to be annoying.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what shocks are going to run?
yep. but I'm the kind of person that enjoys a stiff ride and I don't find it to be annoying.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what shocks are going to run?
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Re: (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That doesn't sound right. I'm on Koni shocks and stock Integra springs with the Koni perch on the lower setting, and I have maybe 1 finger gap in front, and I know there is plenty more than 1" of suspension travel on my shocks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting indeed. I did not cut the bumpstop provided by GC, going off their recommendation. I've got more than 1" of total travel, just 1" before initial contact with the bumpstops. I suppose I could either cut the stop down, or push the shocks further into the forks to create more clearance, but right now my main travel limiter is my UCAs hitting the inner fender, so its a moot point for me. I need to swap my UCAs left to right, back to their correct orientation, and will be installing stiffer springs at the same time. At which point I'll take the time to actually measure at what height the car fully bottoms, and what I think the optimal size for the bumpstops should be.
I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, which might not be the same total diameter as the stock 195/55-15s, so comparisons of "finger gap" can quickly become skewed. I am at 6" from the ground to the front side jack points, if that helps put things in perspective.
Interesting indeed. I did not cut the bumpstop provided by GC, going off their recommendation. I've got more than 1" of total travel, just 1" before initial contact with the bumpstops. I suppose I could either cut the stop down, or push the shocks further into the forks to create more clearance, but right now my main travel limiter is my UCAs hitting the inner fender, so its a moot point for me. I need to swap my UCAs left to right, back to their correct orientation, and will be installing stiffer springs at the same time. At which point I'll take the time to actually measure at what height the car fully bottoms, and what I think the optimal size for the bumpstops should be.
I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, which might not be the same total diameter as the stock 195/55-15s, so comparisons of "finger gap" can quickly become skewed. I am at 6" from the ground to the front side jack points, if that helps put things in perspective.
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Re: (TunerN00b)
I'm also running 205/45-16's, and they're pretty darn close to 195/55-15.
GC has bumpstops? Or did you buy them separately? Mine didn't come with any. I actually bought 4 brand new OEM bumpstops, and then cut them in half, when I installed my GC's, because my damn H&R Sports before them had bottomed out and disintegrated the rear ones.
GC has bumpstops? Or did you buy them separately? Mine didn't come with any. I actually bought 4 brand new OEM bumpstops, and then cut them in half, when I installed my GC's, because my damn H&R Sports before them had bottomed out and disintegrated the rear ones.