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notching block for Eagle and other fat rods

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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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d16dcoe45's Avatar
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Default notching block for Eagle and other fat rods

I have a d16a6 that I am rebuilding, I just got it back from the machine shop and my machinist was taking alot longer than I thought he would--anyway if I waited for him to notch the block for me I would be an old man. I am using (small bolt) Eagle rods in an a6 block with a 75.5mm bore--I found some articles on how to do the notching but my question is, how much clearance is necessary when the rod is turning (between the rod and the bottom of the bore)? Obviously I want to get away with the minimum so I don't lose too much strength or break through to water--my machinist told me 0.100" is the minimum, but that seems rather excessive--anybody else with experience in this area?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:45 AM
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Default Re: notching block for Eagle and other fat rods (d16dcoe45)

theoldone.com has a write up on a dseries build and it gives step by step instructions.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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Default Re: notching block for Eagle and other fat rods (spun Vtec)

thanks, I know--that is the one I am using as a guide--but he doesn't specify what the minimum clearance should be--also--how far before you break through to the water jacket--I would assume the people (few and far between) who use aluminum rods on these motors would have to grind even more than if using Eagle or Manley H-Beams.....
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Default Re: notching block for Eagle and other fat rods (d16dcoe45)

We have done afew, and it was more like .065-.070. Depending what rods, you may have to cl. the main girdle also, you did with the early Eagles and Ferrera rods.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Default Re: notching block for Eagle and other fat rods (DonF)

Thanks Don--actually--the girdle has like 1/4" of clearance--I remember reading where someone had a d16y8 and they had to clearance the girdle. What a pain it was--took me like 6 hours, now I am checking if they fit--I did it the "fast" way (estimation) These are old style 5/16" bolt Eagles so they didn't need to much notching, I just copied my broken 79mm block and notched them the same...
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 03:03 PM
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Default

be sure to mark the centerline of the bolt's arc past the girdle. ive done them in a hurry before and hand the notches land offcenter.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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Default Re: (mike_belben@yahoo.com)

No girdle didn't need notching. I just centered the cut in the bore--about 3/4-7/8" wide, 1/4-3/8" down, and 1/4" deep. They all cleared with plenty of room--girdle has 0.100"+ clearance --didn't need t notch it. Now I am just taking sandpaper and easing the sharp angles into more rounded ones.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Default Re: (d16dcoe45)

throw up the pics. Ive never heard of anyone cutting into the water jacket. is that common?
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 05:24 AM
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Default Re: (spun Vtec)

No I wasn't saying it was common, but its something you hear about sometimes with domestic motors with big strokes and h-beam or aluminum rods, every motor is different. I think d16s have a pretty good chunk seperating the bottom of the cylinder coolant jacket from the crankcase.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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Default Re: (d16dcoe45)

yeah ive never heard of anyone cutting into the water jacket in a d series before
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