Tein HA Coilovers
Just checkin in to see what people have liked or disliked about them, how they handle, how they ride, how long they lasted, if they broke.
basically, if you have any experiences with them, please share.
from what i heard, they're not the best choice for a DD, rough im assuming.
basically, if you have any experiences with them, please share.
from what i heard, they're not the best choice for a DD, rough im assuming.
Munkyw3rkz.webs.com
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From: PUTTIN UR MOUTH ON CURBZ CPT, SoCal
i ran them on both my EG and DC with extended top hats... didnt have NP with them ever...
then i threw some 800lbs springs in rear.. and was maintaining 1.9 60ft's on federal tires... they are still onteh DC2 as we speak with its new owner
then i threw some 800lbs springs in rear.. and was maintaining 1.9 60ft's on federal tires... they are still onteh DC2 as we speak with its new owner
Munkyw3rkz.webs.com
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: PUTTIN UR MOUTH ON CURBZ CPT, SoCal
i did tons of driving with them....
DD to and from work.. and at that time i lived in central cal and every weeken di would make the 3 hour drive south and then back again ....
i rode on stiff and i can deal with it NP's.. and the times i went full soft it was quite nice.. my friend got a set for his ITR as well and is still riding on them
DD to and from work.. and at that time i lived in central cal and every weeken di would make the 3 hour drive south and then back again ....
i rode on stiff and i can deal with it NP's.. and the times i went full soft it was quite nice.. my friend got a set for his ITR as well and is still riding on them
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSX-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you planning to make it look rice or are you making it preform good? because slamming the bitch will handle like ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well of course i want the handling, or else i would have gone with the omnis, dump it down 4"
but i wanna know that i have the coice to lower it pretty far if i feel the need.
that teg is sick, and both cars have a nice stance. wonder if the accord application drops it the same
well of course i want the handling, or else i would have gone with the omnis, dump it down 4"
but i wanna know that i have the coice to lower it pretty far if i feel the need.
that teg is sick, and both cars have a nice stance. wonder if the accord application drops it the same
Munkyw3rkz.webs.com
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 22,166
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From: PUTTIN UR MOUTH ON CURBZ CPT, SoCal
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSX-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that civic is almost tucking tire. that is really F-ing low. it must handle like ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
those were 225x50's
those were 225x50's
Ive had mine for about 4 yrs and have put about 15K miles on them since I bought them (used for about 7K miles per previous owner) and I have had no problems with them. I love them but I have only had the stock set up and Spoon springs for about 5 months. My GSR had H&R Race springs. My HAs are 12K front and 10K so they are a lot stiffer than the stock set up. I love the way they handle. I just wish I could find some Upper Pillow Mounts for them.
i have HA's on my eg with the pillowball mounts and helper springs..
awersome coilover, ive previously had D2s and these,
these coilovers actually soak up bumps but do not soak up the contour of the road if you know what i mean which makes it very nice and stable in corners..
there 8/7 spring rates so the ride is nice and firm when the dampening is full, however i find the best setting is full rear and 1 click off full in the front..
awersome coilover, ive previously had D2s and these,
these coilovers actually soak up bumps but do not soak up the contour of the road if you know what i mean which makes it very nice and stable in corners..
there 8/7 spring rates so the ride is nice and firm when the dampening is full, however i find the best setting is full rear and 1 click off full in the front..
I have set on my dc2. its DD and soon to go auto-x. IMO it is stiff and my friends say its a bit too much but I don't mind much. i actually want to go with some stiffer rates. Since we're on the topic of HA and it doesnt get covered as often, is there a difference between the JDM and USDM versions? I read somewhere that the JDM versions are 21 way adjustable whereas the USDM is 16? Thanks guys
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From: Turning the haters into likers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSX-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that civic is almost tucking tire. that is really F-ing low. it must handle like ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
how do you figure? I'm sure it handles just find. Lower CG is a good thing. Granted it may rub in some areas.
how do you figure? I'm sure it handles just find. Lower CG is a good thing. Granted it may rub in some areas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BandOi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have set on my dc2. its DD and soon to go auto-x. IMO it is stiff and my friends say its a bit too much but I don't mind much. i actually want to go with some stiffer rates. Since we're on the topic of HA and it doesnt get covered as often, is there a difference between the JDM and USDM versions? I read somewhere that the JDM versions are 21 way adjustable whereas the USDM is 16? Thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wondering the same thing, i see 16 ways and 21 ways floating around and wondering if there is any good or bad between the two
Wondering the same thing, i see 16 ways and 21 ways floating around and wondering if there is any good or bad between the two
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NIKE SB’d »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do you figure? I'm sure it handles just find. Lower CG is a good thing. Granted it may rub in some areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you lower a car too much, you screw with the suspension geometry and actually make your car handle worse (notice that no track car is to the point of completely tucking their wheels)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the other guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wondering the same thing, i see 16 ways and 21 ways floating around and wondering if there is any good or bad between the two </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein says not to rotate past the 16th click. There are more spots there, but damage to the shock could occur.
Kinda funny this thread came up because I am selling a pair...
(non thread jacking, I just want to show about the rust issue)
http://www.xceedspeed.com/foru...61964
what you MUST do if you buy tein HA or SS's is to coat the threads with a ton of antiseize before you install them. If you check out my thread, you can see what happens if you keep antiseize on them. Nothing. I have had these in 2 hard winters up in the UP of michigan, and because I did the antiseize I can still rotate the perches without the spanner wrenchs. The shock bodies are all rusted, but the actual threads on the shocks look like new. If you don't I have heard of people having there SS's and HA's colars seize up in less then 6 months. Its a stupid design by tein. The Shock colars are aluminum and the threads are bare Steel. This causes the steel and aluminum to actuall weld together. Tein corrected this problem later by putting a teflon layer on the threads but if you have the old ones either coat them with antiseize or cry later.
how do you figure? I'm sure it handles just find. Lower CG is a good thing. Granted it may rub in some areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you lower a car too much, you screw with the suspension geometry and actually make your car handle worse (notice that no track car is to the point of completely tucking their wheels)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the other guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wondering the same thing, i see 16 ways and 21 ways floating around and wondering if there is any good or bad between the two </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein says not to rotate past the 16th click. There are more spots there, but damage to the shock could occur.
Kinda funny this thread came up because I am selling a pair...
(non thread jacking, I just want to show about the rust issue)
http://www.xceedspeed.com/foru...61964
what you MUST do if you buy tein HA or SS's is to coat the threads with a ton of antiseize before you install them. If you check out my thread, you can see what happens if you keep antiseize on them. Nothing. I have had these in 2 hard winters up in the UP of michigan, and because I did the antiseize I can still rotate the perches without the spanner wrenchs. The shock bodies are all rusted, but the actual threads on the shocks look like new. If you don't I have heard of people having there SS's and HA's colars seize up in less then 6 months. Its a stupid design by tein. The Shock colars are aluminum and the threads are bare Steel. This causes the steel and aluminum to actuall weld together. Tein corrected this problem later by putting a teflon layer on the threads but if you have the old ones either coat them with antiseize or cry later.
the newer version (however I don't think they ever updated the ha's since the HA's are kind of an old model, that hasn't been sold in the states for honda in a LONG time. SS's basicly replaced them) SS's now have green perches/colars instead of the bare aluminum ones. With a quick google search, it looks like alot of places are still selling the older ones. Even on TEIN's US website, they don't even a pic of the new ones, although they do on the Japanese site (tein.co.jp)






