I recently installed my nitrous and fuel soldenoids today.

When I was done, I noticed a major pulsing exhaust leak coming from the back of the test pipe and my idle was really low almost to the point of stalling. I think it may have had something to do with the fact I cut my fuel line and spliced in the nitrous kit's line.

I suspect that the exhaust leak may have been brought on by me nailing a speed bump today and cracking it lose, but why would I just notice it now? It pulses with the engine's rpm and whn I get to about 1200 you can't hear it anymore. "Psh...Psh...Psh...Psh...Psh...Psh."

Do you think I just need to raise my idle and fix the leak with a new gasket?


Modified by Tippyman at 9:08 PM 10/18/2006

 

fix the leak first and check to make sure nothing else broke/came loose

speed not pseed

 

BUMP.

I'm alittle convcerned that the leak it pulsing. whouldn't it just be a steady stream? I mean i can feel it just pulsing on my hand. It's very noticeable. Basicaly, there's a very little leak, and then a big whoosh of air, then a little, then another woosh of air, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...I noticed a major pulsing exhaust leak coming from the back of the test pipe and my idle was really low almost to the point of stalling...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe, if your idle is low enough it would be normal to feel the air pulsing out of the exhaust. Think Harley Davidson; not a steady stream... FMMpp FMMpp. Neither are we at low RPM. At one point I held a piece of paper loosely over my exhaust tip and watched the air flow (two different motors and exhausts) You could see the air push out and stop in intervals.

 

Well, then the pulsing is just because of the low idle then. I figured as much.

So is this how I adjust my idle? Found it in the search:

Any CELs? You need to adjust it in accordance with the procedure in your repair manual. If you don't have one, get one. Otherwise:
1.) Warm car to op. temp and unplug EACV
2.) Note idle speed, should be ~650RPM, if not adjust w/ idle screw.
3.) Plug EACV back in, should make a sucking noise
4.) Shut car off, reset ECU
5.) Repeat checks with high beams, defroster and heater on HI
6.) Adjust if neccessary

There is also an electrical test in your manual that you should follow.

If this fails to fix it, either: 1) Your EACV is dirty (clean it!), 2) Your EACV is faulty (replace it!), 3) You have a vaccuum leak somewhere, or 4) you have air in your coolant system.

 

If that is how you do it, What the hell is the EACV and where is it? Pix would be awesome!

 

EACV is Electronic Air Control Valve that compensates for having a load on the motor; like A/C cutting on. It allows more air to bypass throttle body to raise idle so you don't bog down.

It's located on the rear of the intake manifold. Two 12mm bolts hold it onto the manifold. Should have a two wire plug in the bottom of it.






Modified by BlueCrxNC at 12:02 AM 10/19/2006

 

Thanx man.

 

No Problem. Glad to help.

FYI... Also known as IACV (Intake Air Control Valve) &lt;-OBD1 Term

 

Cool. Looks like i'll be adjusting adles and fixing nasty exhaust leaks on friday. So much for my day off...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So much for my day off...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No such thing Least not for us DIY mechanics with a life. Have fun.

 

I just read that coolant leve; can affect idle cause the EACV is coolant controlled. I'l do my coolant while i'm at it I guess.

 

EACV is not 'controlled' by the coolant. The coolant flows into a little chamber on the lower end of the EACV. It's to keep it warm (prevent freezing/lockup) in the cold weather.

Although it is true that air bubbles caught in the coolant system can cause issues but they are unrelated with the EACV.

 

to hell with fixing it, add some larger jetting and blow the bitch up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to hell with fixing it, add some larger jetting and blow the bitch up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh?

 

nitrous ftw foooo!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitrous ftw foooo! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, we can't all afford to supercharge our A6's.

LO BUK build!

 

selling my supercharger anyway.

JRSC GSR swap coming soon.

 

BUMp 4 any other sugestions. I ama buying the **** I need today. (Exhaust leak fixer, coolant, etc.)

 

Hehehehe, so nice to see that you used my EACV advice. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hehehehe, so nice to see that you used my EACV advice. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I saw ur post like a weeka ago and just remembered it now.

BTW: I'm officially a dumbass. It was pulsing so bad and running like **** because one of the plug wires was off of the distributor!

Cylinder #1 wasn't firing. Could I have messed it up by driving to work with no spark in it?

 

Well the cylinder was probably just getting flooded with fuel, so you should probably replace your plugs at least that would seem logical to me, now that you reattached the wire. (Read: your plug is probably fouled, though I could be wrong but plugs are cheap as hell, do it for good measure)

However, I drove a D16A6 on 3 cylinders (#3 had two bent valves), for a while back and forth to school and work, tore the motor down when I put in the built D16Y8 and it was in perfect shape, other than the bent valves of course.